A bit of history about this car, one owner, high mileage (191,000) but bought at a knock down price as there was no audio coming out of the sytem and both key fobs were shot.
Two new key cases with new batteries and switches and both now fully functioning.
Lack of audio was down to 1) a missing Bluetooth module! The fibre optic connector was just flapping around behind the trim! and 2) the power amp was duff. I replaced the Bluetooth with a D4 one and now with the MOST circuit all working the Sat Nav burst into life but of course the same person who took the Bluetooth module nicked the sat disk! I had an old 2005 one which works.
Still no audio but that was a duff power amp, now replaced (See separate post) and now fully working!
The last problem was the CD changer in the head unit was jammed up with 3 yes three discs all trying to get out! A replacement CD unit came my way via Ebay and that now works.
It has had a gearbox flush because it was surging and had a bit of judder. Surging gone but the judder hasn't and looks to be a calliper or hand brake shoe jamming. Parts ordered to renew everything.
Finally now onto the DTCs!
Here is the list shown by my IID Tool.
Body Control
B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
( at 191276 mi )
B1B70-01 (28) Local interconnection network bus circuit 2 - General failure information - general electrical failure
( at 191276 mi )
B1C13-3A (2F) Driver's up/down mirror motor feedback circuit - Frequency modulation/pulse width modulation failure - incorrect, has too many pulses
( at 191276 mi )
B1C14-3A (2F) Driver's left/right mirror motor feedback circuit - Frequency modulation/pulse width modulation failure - incorrect, has too many pulses
( at 191276 mi )
B1C15-3A (2F) Passenger's up/down mirror motor feedback circuit - Frequency modulation/pulse width modulation failure - incorrect, has too many pulses
( at 191276 mi )
B1C16-3A (2F) Passenger's left/right mirror motor feedback circuit - Frequency modulation/pulse width modulation failure - incorrect, has too many pulses
( at 191276 mi )
B1C18-73 (2F) Driver's mirror right switch - Mechanical failure - actuator is stuck closed
( at 191276 mi )
B1C57-14 (6C) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( at 191276 mi )
U0155-87 (28) Lost communication with instrument cluster control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( at 191276 mi )
Cell Phone
U3003-17 (AF) Battery voltage - General electrical failure - circuit voltage above threshold
( at 191287 mi )
Engine TDV6
P0405-00 (2D) Exhaust gas recirculation sensor A - circuit low
P0100-00 (2D) Mass or volume air flow circuit
P132B-00 (68) Turbo/supercharger boost control A performance
P0234-00 (68) Turbo/supercharger overboost condition
P132B-00 (68) Turbo/supercharger boost control A performance
Instrument Pack
U0132-87 (28) Lost communication with ride level control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
U0159-87 (2E) Lost communication with parking assist control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
Traffic Message
B1A56-18 (3E) Antenna circuit - General electrical failure - circuit current below threshold
Now most of those are the ones to be expected.
Mirrors ones are sticking motors I think and both mirrors will be coming off for a service.
What doesn't show up as a DTC is that the powerfold mirrors don't powerfold, I checked the fuse (F16) and is OK so I am going to change the brown relay by the CJB.
Any ideas about ' Cell Phone U3003-17 (AF) Battery voltage - General electrical failure - circuit voltage above threshold'?
The engine DTCs will be a nicely gummed up EGR valve or two, blacking plates going in.
The turbo faults are probably the actuator sticking as that only happened yesterday!
Has anybody tried one of the Turbo Cleaner options available. If so which one does anybody recommend?
Spray or 'in the tank'?
Yesterday, driving back from Tesco it went into limp home mode with the message 'Special programs disabled' or something like that! I was on a bit of dual carriageway with no hard shoulder, so spent more time not getting hit up the :censored: and pulling onto the grass verge! An engine off and on cured the 'problem' and I got back home OK.
These DTCs are after this happened by the way.
Me thinks the actuator has decided to stick properly after being left in the garage over Christmas.
The Instrument Pack ones are probably a dodgy connector somewhere. Any ideas?
And lastly, 'Traffic Message
B1A56-18 (3E) Antenna circuit - General electrical failure - circuit current below threshold'
A bad earth by the rear side window perhaps?
Anybody with a more exact location?
HNY all and sorry it is a long post!
Ian
1st Jan 2018 11:03 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
have you cleared them since you got the car ? If not, do that.
U codes can be ignored.
18 (3E) Antenna circuit - Yeah them things in the rear. Could be another false code.
Does the radio work is FULL stereo on FM ? and AM work to. If its good reception, ignore
Yes the DTCs were all cleared, what is very useful is that the DTCs are sent by email to me so I have a record of codes, and ones which are new!
After being in the garage over Christmas, the first indication of a problem was the 'bong' and the message 'Engine system fault', that hadn't shown itself before then!
The Turbo ones were all new, the EGR and Mass Air Flow ones were there originally as were the Body Control DTCs.
The U codes strangely are a new addition! It 'could' be something to do with the D4 Bluetooth module I put in and works well?
Re the aerial DTC, where I live here in Cardiff, I am blessed with good signal strength for both FM and DAB, not that I have DAB on the D3, the Audi A5 does and the only bad spot is under the Tx aerial next to Tesco Extra!
So until I take it for a proper drive, preferably after the Turbo actuator has been freed and I don't suffer a limp home event, I'll find out what the reception is like away from the metropolis.
Anywhere up the valleys towards the Brecon Beacons would show up any failings.
Ian
1st Jan 2018 7:25 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
The turbo codes do like to put the message up on the dash as I am painfully aware.
At ignition switch on or off the actuator arm should move
Well, yesterday afternoon, after visiting Halfords I poured 1 Winns Turbo Clean and 1 Winns Diesel Injector cleaner into the rather empty fuel tank. Both plastic bottles say add to a minimum of 40 litres!
I ran the engine for a short while then left it overnight.
This morning I thought I ought to put some fuel in to at least show willing to Winns, and AMAZING, NO System Engine Fault message!
I popped along to Morrisons for 20 litres of their cheapest fuel and it ran very smoothly I have to say!
When I got back I shoved the IID Tool in and AMAZING NO engine faults at all!
Yes the wing mirror ones are still there is is the U3003 Battery Voltage fault!
I have to say that Winns is amazing stuff if it has actually worked!
I was so taken a back I flashed the instrument cluster with the Clock On Dash then did the Three Flash on the BCM module having changed the CCF file.
I do have one, well two more questions though.
I bought a new key fob with electronics on board as a 'good' spare, (£25 on Ebay it even has the Land Rover logo on it!) the original two have been refurbished, new cases, switches and batteries.
I paired up all keys and all work BUT key no 3 (The new one) unlocks and locks OK but you have to press the unlock twice to open the passenger and tail gate, where as the original two are obeying the 'Lazy' entry setting.
Any clues?
Lastly it is getting harder and harder to get the key out of the ignition barrel, sometimes I have to go through a long multiple on/off switching process and eventually it will release.
Is this something that a little drop of lock oil will cure or is it the precursor to a more serious problem?
locks should never have oil as it collects the c**p into a sticky gunge - graphite powder is the best lube for locks Pete
1965 S2a with Galv Marslands Chassis - Sold (BIG mistake)
1993 200TDi GS Green 5 Seat Manual - Broken
1993 200TDi GS Grey 7 Seat manual - Sold To Defender Owner to Use Engine
1999 TD5 GS Blenheim Silver 5 Seat Manual - Broken
1999 TD5 GS Oxford Blue 7 Seat Auto - Sold
1999 TD5 ES Epsom Green 6 Seat Auto - Sold
2007 D3 2.7 TDV6 XS Java Black 7 Seat Auto
1999 Swift Classic Coronette
2019 BMW X1 AWD Auto - SWMBO's Car
I agree which is why I said 'lock oil' which is a non liquid sort of powder.
It seems that the key blade is 'held' in the lock barrel and not just stiff.
It is as though the release mechanism isn't releasing.
I'm just wondering if that mechanism is just sticky or is failing.
Ian
2nd Jan 2018 6:06 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
I've heard morrisons diesel being slagged off before, so would consider you use anything else!
I wouldn't count your chickens just yet
Has the weather warmed up ?
I've used WD40 in locks, but ppl like to slag that off too.
Regarding 2 presses of unlock. Hold both lock and unlock down together for ~5s until the locks activate.
I think you need to turn "personalisation" in CCF off to stop different keys doing different things. Its bloody annoying
2nd Jan 2018 7:43 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
My D3 has pretty much run on nothing but morrisons fuel for the last 18/24 months, with no obvious issues yet!
2nd Jan 2018 7:53 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
Fuel is an emotive subject.
I think it is pretty well proven that the 'only' difference between supermarket fuel and what is often called premium fuel, i.e. the stuff sold on the forecourt of Shell, BP etc. is next to nothing, no extra additives but maybe cleaner tanks in the forecourt.
I've been into the fuel depot and seen trucks going to Tesco drawing fuel from the same pipe as the Shell one in front. I do not think the driver opens the tops of each tank on the trailer and drops a bucket of additive into each one!
The volume of fuel that the likes of Asda, Morrisons and Tesco shift must keep the forecourt tanks pretty clean?
The V Max from Shell etc. is different and does have additives to make it burn better and stop gumming etc. You can add your own but the cost probably would dictate you buy Shell or BP product. That of course is if your local Shell and BP stations actually sell the 'best' stuff! Neither of my local stations do!
Something I did try with my previous D3, (bought at 132,000 sold with neigh on 190,000 on the clock.) was the addition of 2 stroke oil.
On the first long run I did down to my place in the Dordogne, some 450 miles, I definitely got better fuel economy, by about 3 mpg. The engine did sound and felt smoother.
I used to put 200ml in a full tank whenever I remembered and 29mpg was achievable having cruised at 130 kph on the autoroute for about 140 miles!
Towards the end of my journey, when approaching Limoges the road does go up and down hill quite a bit so an average of 29 mpg at that speed isn't bad.
I even got it up to 31 mpg on one journey with my trailer on the back, but I did keep to 90 kph as I didn't want to subject the load to too much wind buffeting!
That is about the best I ever got with that car!
The EGR valves were blanked off by the way though the gunge in air intake wasn't that bad.
This car is having trouble achieving 25 mpg so I think the EGR vales etc. are really gummed up. Proved by the 'Limp home mode' episode.
Some blanking plates are on their way, in the mean time Winns does seem to be doing what it says on the tin/bottle!
As for the weather, the temperature here in Cardiff isn't cold and hasn't been all Christmas!
One last thing on the fuel note, I had an Audi TT 3.2 litre V6 petrol cabriolet, a pocket rocket which definitely went better on Shell V-Max and gave pretty good fuel consumption on that fuel, trouble was finding the bloody stuff!
I had to go to the Cardiff Gate Services to get it! Not cheap that I can say.
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