Member Since: 10 Nov 2011
Seems I posted this reply in the wrong topic. Apologies
12th Oct 2016 7:16 am
Member Since: 20 Nov 2016
Dear All, I have brought a discovery 3 SE and the rev counter has stopped working. Can anyone help me please. It's a 55 reg
20th Nov 2016 3:50 pm
Member Since: 26 Aug 2010
I think I solved!
I was having the same problems described in this thread and think I finally found a solution. After about a month of research I think some people have slightly different faults and symptoms because of different versions of control module software on the various components. I'm fed up with the stealer so I took my lr3 to an independent shop that is certified for land rover, bently, aston, mazeratti, etc. I very good shop. The mechanic said that if any module on the CANBUS network (high speed) goes down, it can take all or part of this network down. This includes the brakes, suspension, transmission, isntrument panel, transfer case, parking brake, and many others. This is why there are so many faults going off, every component that uses the CANBUS could be affected.
Simple fixes in order of expense:
1. As everyone else says, start with the battery. It should read 11.9-12.3 volts when off and 12-14.5 volts while running. If a CANBUS module doesn't have enough power, it may not function.
2. The instrument panel is on this CANBUS too, so give it a wiggle to see if it sends an error. I read that some people had loose cables in the back.
3. The brake switch affects the CANBUS, the plug has a dark red wire that is the power. This should read just about the same as your battery 11.9-12.3 volts when the engine is off. If yours is very low, there is a common problem where the wire is spliced in the floorboard of the right footwell. If it ever got wet, it could have corroded. It takes a while to pull out all the plastic trim, but some new wire, solder, and heat shrink are a cheap fix. But if the brake switch is getting good volts, don't bother with checking this wire, its probably not the problem. Mine had some light corrosion so I soldered and head shrinked it, but it wasn't the source of my problem even with corrosion.
4. While you've got the kick plate off for the brake switch, check the steering angle sensor (SAS). The SAS is a yellowish brown collar on the steering shaft on the inside of the firewall just before a U-joint. It's directly above the brake pedal. This collar should should turn when you turn the steering wheel, there shouldn't be any slipping. Some people say their SAS slipped, which causes chaos for several powertrain modules on the CANBUS, which causes brake and suspension faults. If you have Navigation, you can switch to the 4x4 and the front tires in that picture should exactly match the direction of your steering wheel as you turn it about. If this angle is off, the inner ring on the SAS can be replaced by unbolding the u-joint and slipping a new one on in about an hour. Land rover manual says to remove the entire dash, 6+hours. I'm sure they enjoy billing their customers all that time. Some people have also glued the inner SAS ring back in place. Unfortunately a slipped or replaced SAS needs to be recalibrated before the errors go away. If you have a programming tool like the IIDtool or fault mate, you just saved some money. Otherwise, a trip to the dealer is needed.
5. Some people have had water leak into their batter compartment and spoil the Transfer Case Control Module. It's directly behind the battery and should take about 30 min to visually inspect. The plugs, pins, and cables should not have any corrosion or the module is probably bad. This ended up being my problem and it started during a rain, which should have been a clue. When I pulled the TCCM out there was green corrosion on the plug pins. Unfortunately, this module needs to be calibrated as well, which is why I sprung for an IIDtool to do all the calibrations. I got a used TCCM and configured it, back up and running in about 30 minutes. Such a relief after 2 months of limping around!
If none of these are your problem, my best guess is that it is another module failure on the high speed CANBUS. When researching I heard from others that the symptoms in this thread can also be due to errors with the YAW sensor, transmission control module, parking assist module, instrument cluster, or others. The stealers apparently have a "network integrity test" on their diagnostic software that isolates each module on the CANBUS to pinpoint if any are causing havoc. I wasn't able to find any consumer grade diagnostic tool with this feature, which is why I went into the specialist shop that works on Bentleys. They ID'd the TCCM and when I replaced it the consistent errors have disappeared for now.
Through this process I bought an IIDtool to recalibrate modules. I get this problem and can't fix it with the inspections listed above I will 1) take it into the dealer for a network scan and 2) buy a used replacement module on ebay, and 3) configure and flash the new module using the IIDtool. Note to furutre self... remember to actually do this before wasting as much time as I did this go around!
I hope this helps somebody, good luck! [/list]
27th Jan 2017 6:08 pm
Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: South West France
I have owned this car from new (13yrs now) and this problem occurs now and then, even just a couple of years into its life.
When you turn on the ignition the car does a system check, and if all is not well it throws up a fault on the dash.
Transmission fault also means hdc fault, special programs off, terrain response off etc etc. Indeed it seems like multiple failure when it can be just a sticky solonoid.
On the auto box there are two solonoids on the transfer case/ gearbox one for gear selection and one for high/low range, you can see them clearly when you crawl under.
Tap them with a hammer, and disconnect /reconnect the electrical connections and this usually fixes the problem.
Hope this helps someone
28th Jan 2017 11:34 pm
Member Since: 22 Mar 2017
Location: South Humberside
Disco 3 electrical faults
I need some help with my Disco3 07 few weeks ago on the dash start coming on the 3 faults :
Washer fluid low + passenger seat belt + engine oil pressure.
All 3 comes on and off at the same time.
Washer fluid it's top up + no one seat on the passenger seat + I have check engine oil pressure and it's right.
It was play for few minutes on beginning but now it stay for couple hours.
Any one has similar problem? Please.
22nd Mar 2017 10:23 am
Member Since: 12 Oct 2016
Location: Tunbridge Wells
I had every week or two these mutilple messages
A new transfer case Ecu has cured all issues
Wasn't to expensive a fix either
10th May 2017 1:24 pm
Member Since: 26 May 2017
Location: The Rhubarb triangle
@kels83 I think I'd just about reached the same conclusion but the network scan is useful to know. Will do the remainder of the basics and check the ECU behind the battery, then get it down to LR for the scan/daylight robbery.
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