Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
Galvernisednuts wrote:
My heater was cold and the heater matrix was the fault. One heater pipe was hot the other cold pointing towards no flow or circulation. Removed and tested it and found totally blocked.
Do the heater self test to check your blend motors are working as well.
I have done the self test all seems ok.
I have checked hoses as in post above, IS this what you had as an issue, if so can you advise on the fix?‘Everyday is a school day!’
4th Jan 2019 4:03 pm
Huggs153
Member Since: 15 Nov 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 190
I had a similar issue on a D4 and after doing £250 on a new thermostat and several hours of IID testing I bought a replacement Webasto and solenoid from Kent 4x4 and swapped them out... I now have hot air as designed. Good luck...
Click image to enlarge
Huggs.
D4 XS
D3 HSE(SOLD)
side steps, EGR blanked,3 flash +Clock Move
D4 XS 2012 For sale
D4 HSE 2015
V8 Upgrade Front brakes (AF)
155000 mile+ club
RAI
16000 lb winch
D4 As it comes...
Hampshire & Berkshire 4X4 Responder
4th Jan 2019 5:27 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
Cheers, really need to get it working, the D3 set up looks slightly different to yours.‘Everyday is a school day!’
6th Jan 2019 7:11 pm
Galvernisednuts
Member Since: 28 Nov 2018
Location: Carlisle
Posts: 39
That's what mine was doing. I removed my matrix and after draining it down. I filled the matrix in the sink to check flow. I'm guessing you could possibly test it still on the car by connecting a garden hose to the heater input pipe in the engine bay and run some low pressure water through to see if it flows out of the heater output pipe .
6th Jan 2019 9:58 pm
Galvernisednuts
Member Since: 28 Nov 2018
Location: Carlisle
Posts: 39
That's what mine was doing. I removed my matrix and after draining it down. I filled the matrix in the sink to check flow. I'm guessing you could possibly test it still on the car by connecting a garden hose to the heater input pipe in the engine bay and run some low pressure water through to see if it flows out of the heater output pipe .
6th Jan 2019 9:59 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
jeep948 wrote:
So I have bled the car up and the blowers are still cold, there is another bleed valve on a hose that goes over the back of the engine, is this a separate one for bleeding the heating system would anyone know?
Anyone tell me if this is OK?‘Everyday is a school day!’
6th Jan 2019 10:17 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
Galvernisednuts wrote:
That's what mine was doing. I removed my matrix and after draining it down. I filled the matrix in the sink to check flow. I'm guessing you could possibly test it still on the car by connecting a garden hose to the heater input pipe in the engine bay and run some low pressure water through to see if it flows out of the heater output pipe .
How big a job is it to remove the matrix?‘Everyday is a school day!’
6th Jan 2019 10:19 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
Anyone give me steer on what to do with this?‘Everyday is a school day!’
9th Jan 2019 6:21 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
Cheers for that Pete K
Would you be able to confirm if the pipes should be; one cold and one hot as in my case or is this a sign that there is a fault?‘Everyday is a school day!’
9th Jan 2019 7:26 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
David can you access the HVAC with your diagnostics and see if there are any codes, and if heater temp control is actually working? I'm just wondering if the "alternator issue" hasn't done more than we originally thought!
For some reason I'm unable to upload the graphic from IID, but I'll pm it to you so you can get an idea of the temp control operation and manipulation.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
9th Jan 2019 7:31 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
Hi Den,
I ran diagnostics on the car and there are no faults, I checked all of the hoses as in further up the thread and I have also bled everything up and all with no luck.
I am wondering if the heating has ever worked since I got it back from the garage after the top end rebuild??? As the weather was warm back then I don't think I would have ever had a reason to have heat on and as you know it has sat for months since then until it finally went back on the road recently.
Can you tell me if the 2 hoses going into the matrix should be as they are, one hot and one cold?
Cheers David‘Everyday is a school day!’
9th Jan 2019 7:38 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
No, not if the heat is turned up full. One should be hot (inflow) and the other (outflow) less so as the heat is dissipated to the car's interior. So if you can see in "live values" on your diagnostics the heater temp being manipulated by you inside the car and yet no heat, that would seem like a blockage, air lock, or faulty sensor.
If the value does not change when you turn the temp control, there is a problem with either the control, or the temp sensor, and is less likely to be an air lock or other obstruction.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
9th Jan 2019 7:55 pm
jeep948
Member Since: 16 Feb 2017
Location: Kelso
Posts: 200
Thanks Den, I will get this all checked in the morning and hopefully have a better idea from there.‘Everyday is a school day!’
9th Jan 2019 8:10 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Regardless if electronics they should both be hot.
What I would do is disconnect the pipes half way down the side of engine where access is easy.
Get a hose pipe and push water into the heater. See if dirt comes out and good flow.
Push water up the other side. Repeat several times.
Reconnect pipes.
If that don’t help and flow is poor have to replace matrix
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