Member Since: 01 Jul 2017
Location: Bristol
Posts: 10
Oil Filter Housing
after some thoughts...
Should the oil filter housing be flush with top of the engine block when tight?
Had an oil change recently. When cold or stood for a few hours, oil pressure light stays on occasionally (4-6 secs) and get a bong just before it goes out. Tappet noise for a few secs, then it stops and light goes out (like my camper when the tappets run dry with thin oil) All okay if warm. I have the correct amount of oil and running castrol 5-30 A5... done 120k on the clock.
O-Ring in filter housing is about 3/4 up the thread. Is this correct? New filter and new 0-ring went on. Landrover branded.
Oil filter housing can only be tightened up so much that it stands proud of engine by 5mm. I physically cannot tighten anymore and the torque gauge is clicking out. [see photo] Is this normal?
Click image to enlarge
1st Jul 2018 10:55 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
A common fault with filter changes and the light being slow to go out when cold is the
filter nipple not being in the hole at the bottom.
This results in the filter being bypassed.
It's a stupid design.
Suggust you get a replacement filter (always good to have one) and one with a reinforced center.
Then take the old one out, and see if the old filter is crushed.
If its not crushed you could reuse the old one.
I think bearmac ones are not reinforced.
Britpart and MANN ARE reinforced
This one I can just see a black ridge in the hole showing its reinforced
After all that I see you used a LR filter so should be reinforced.
But still get a spare and check inside.
1st Jul 2018 11:11 am
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 762
Re: Oil Filter Housing
davehooook wrote:
after some thoughts...
Should the oil filter housing be flush with top of the engine block when tight?
Had an oil change recently. When cold or stood for a few hours, oil pressure light stays on occasionally (4-6 secs) and get a bong just before it goes out. Tappet noise for a few secs, then it stops and light goes out (like my camper when the tappets run dry with thin oil) All okay if warm. I have the correct amount of oil and running castrol 5-30 A5... done 120k on the clock.
O-Ring in filter housing is about 3/4 up the thread. Is this correct? New filter and new 0-ring went on. Landrover branded.
Oil filter housing can only be tightened up so much that it stands proud of engine by 5mm. I physically cannot tighten anymore and the torque gauge is clicking out. [see photo] Is this normal?
Click image to enlarge
doesn't look right to me the "o" ring goes in the groove that's got a 45* taper on it the plastic housing should pull down flush with the alloy casing of the filter housing best take it off an check before you do some damage as for the noises that's not prob anything to worry about mine makes similar noises at start up (has done since I owned it 3 yrs)
edit :- oh you did fit the filter into the metal casing pushing the peg on the bottom of the filter in to the hole in the filter casing didn't you NOT fit the filter in the plastic top and then fit to casing please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
1st Jul 2018 12:09 pm
davehooook
Member Since: 01 Jul 2017
Location: Bristol
Posts: 10
Thanks for advice.
Filter went on engine first then housing screwed down over top. Lined the nipple up and made sure it went in but clearly something is not right. O-ring in the slotted groove that looks about the size of the O-Ring.
Will grab a filter and give it another go.
Assume being top mounted I don't need to drop the oil to change / check the filter... only one way to find out
I've just done my oil for the 4th time in 2 years
I always use an LR genuine filter
Every time I get nervous when I fit the filter in to the housing,yes I ensure its home into the hole
I get the O ring on the filter housing top in the correct place ,you know it's the correct place as it looks at an angle
Stupid stupid design
The rattling is a drive chain at the rear of the engine that gets sprayed with oil just after start up so I was informed by the knowledge chaps on here
Phil
1st Jul 2018 10:29 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
no you don't need to drop oil
loosen the filter and let the air in.
Then give in 2 mins to drain some of the oil down.
1st Jul 2018 10:29 pm
davehooook
Member Since: 01 Jul 2017
Location: Bristol
Posts: 10
Filter changed with new o-ring. Definitely clicked into engine when nipple located and again when filter cover tightened. Housing now looks flush to engine but still getting double bong. Oil pressure light goes out after 3-4 secs with a bong when cold, but fine if quickly restarted when cold.
4th Jul 2018 7:11 pm
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 762
as I said earlier my 2005 behaves exactly the same I got quite paranoid about it but its been fine for 3 years now
I use an oil that matches the landrover spec,i measure the oil I put in/take out (5.7 ltrs) as the dipstick is not easy to read
,I have noticed that I never get consistent reads that's why I measure it, and i get same noises as you
oil and filter changes every 6 mths or 5000mls whatever comes first and its usually 150-200mltrs short (125000mls engine) of the 5.7 ltrs I put in so I figure its ok,mind you when I first got it I used to use a 5-30 c3 oil I use in my van and it never bonged then but it also never made the rattling noise from the timing chain so whats right/wrong ? I just decided to use lr spec oil and genuine filters and stop worrying about it (it does say in the handbook that a rattle on startup is normal and nothing to worry about)please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
4th Jul 2018 8:20 pm
davehooook
Member Since: 01 Jul 2017
Location: Bristol
Posts: 10
Iv put a sticker over the dash light, and turned radio up.... problem fixed.
4th Jul 2018 9:06 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
I thought the bong on start up was self test. That is what I was told on here.
5th Jul 2018 12:15 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
next time you get the cambelt replaced, consider a new oil pump.
Mick Flack changed my oil pump when he did all my belts and it made a hell of a difference on start up ( no rattling and oil light out in a couple of secs instead of 4 or 5 !. Also if you get all that done you may as-well get the water pump done too for the extra it costs The happiest of people don't necessarily have the best of everything;
They just make the best of everything they have.
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so should be reinforced.
