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XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
  
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| Oil pump failure causing timing belt failure |
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Not mine (thank God)
But a friend with a MY08 2.7L TDV6 XS
Was driving home at the end of the week and the engine died whilst he was doing 40-50.
Only last weekend I scanned his car for him and it had
Quote:
Engine TDV6
P0196-26 (6C) Engine oil temperature sensor circuit range/performance - General signal failure - signal rate of change is below the threshold
he was complaining of sluggish performance, particularly in the mid range, but otherwise the car has been serviced according to schedule since he got it at 100k miles.
When he bought it, he got the dealer (not LR) to do the timing belt service before he took the car, but guessing they didn’t do the oil pump.
A local LR specialised Indy have suggested about 3k to repair, suggesting both cam shafts need replacing, but that’s early opinion and in depth inspection required to know exactely what’s happened.
Question to you all is, given collective experience, what’s the realistic outcome here?
Kind regards
Andy
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 17th Mar 2018 11:34 pm |
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Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
  
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We have different opinions about this failure after a timing belt change.
But IMHO I believe the tensioner mount, gets over stressed if people don’t use a maximum 24 Nm of torque when doing the holding bolt up on the tensioner and then taking time to check the tensioner has the correct preload.
It took me 3 go’s (rotate the crank 360’s and re adjust tensioner ) before I was happy with the belt tension and preload in the tensioner.
In testing before I did my timing belt, i found 1/8 of an extra turn on a bolt applied 50Nm or over twice the recommended torque.
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| 17th Mar 2018 11:57 pm |
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XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
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Should point out that the cam belt change happened at 100k miles, and the car has now done about 170k.
So this was back when he bought it a few years back.
The LR Indy has said something about the oil pump plate being cracked, which is why I wonder if the second hand car dealer didn’t replace it with the upgraded pump, and just replaced the belts.
All irrelevant I. The face of, failed oil pump, failed cam belt, what’s the damage?
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| 18th Mar 2018 12:04 am |
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Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
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170k miles or 270,000 kms
How long do you expect a car to last?
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| 18th Mar 2018 1:26 am |
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DiscoJeffster
Member Since: 27 Feb 2016
Location: Perth
Posts: 204
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Longer than that Tripe.
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| 18th Mar 2018 2:11 am |
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Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
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I wouldn't be complaining about spending $$$ on a car with 270,000 kms and an identified crack in the oil pump.
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| 18th Mar 2018 5:30 am |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20729
 
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Tripe wrote:We have different opinions about this failure after a timing belt change.
But IMHO I believe the tensioner mount, gets over stressed if people don’t use a maximum 24 Nm of torque when doing the holding bolt up on the tensioner and then taking time to check the tensioner has the correct preload.
It took me 3 go’s (rotate the crank 360’s and re adjust tensioner ) before I was happy with the belt tension and preload in the tensioner.
In testing before I did my timing belt, i found 1/8 of an extra turn on a bolt applied 50Nm or over twice the recommended torque.
I had one in recently, an 08 with 130k miles, still on it’s original belts...
Still snapped the casing
So either;
They were overtightened from new
Or, it’s a weak casting... My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 18th Mar 2018 8:56 am |
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XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
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Hi guys,
Thanks for the replies.
Mickey, can I ask what need3d fixing as a result, and what the cost of the repair was?
Thanks
Andy
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| 18th Mar 2018 10:26 am |
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Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
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Disco_Mikey wrote:
I had one in recently, an 08 with 130k miles, still on it’s original belts...
Still snapped the casing
So either;
They were overtightened from new
Or, it’s a weak casting...
The timing belts and idlers were 30,000 miles or 48,200 kms over due for replacement?
I wouldn't rule out that the roller bearings in the idlers and tensioner were shot and placed an irreuglur load onto the tensioner mount?
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| 18th Mar 2018 2:01 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
 
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the metal mount shouldn't break before the serviceable belt though!
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| 18th Mar 2018 3:20 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20729
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Tripe wrote:Disco_Mikey wrote:
I had one in recently, an 08 with 130k miles, still on it’s original belts...
Still snapped the casing
So either;
They were overtightened from new
Or, it’s a weak casting...
The timing belts and idlers were 30,000 miles or 48,200 kms over due for replacement?
I wouldn't rule out that the roller bearings in the idlers and tensioner were shot and placed an irreuglur load onto the tensioner mount?
Nope. They were all fine.
Warranty company asked when the belt was replaced. Told them it hadn't been.
And they approved the claim  My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 18th Mar 2018 5:41 pm |
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Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
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?
The Timing belts service was 30,000 miles or 48,000 kms over due for replacement and the Warranty company paid for new oil pump replacement????
I had a failed alternator, and my warranty company wold not pay for replacement because I was 4,000 kms overdue on the last service,
my old idlers where not rotating as smoothly, as the new replacement idlers, when they came of my car.
I still believe the oil pump mount fails because of some form of shock loading.
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| 18th Mar 2018 10:01 pm |
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XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
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So,
not being quite up to speed on all this.
Can anyone give me an idea of what my friend is looking at in terms of repair?
Mikey, you said 'all was fine', but did you mean the engine was generally ok and just the oil pump casing needed replacing, along with the belt, or should he expect the whole engine to be shagged.
The local LR indy are suggesting both crankshafts need to be replacedasa result, but are rather non-committal as to what the cost of all this is likely to be other than mentioning £3000
If thats the case, would it be better to look at a new engine+/- turbo or scrap the thing for parts.
The same indy suggested its now worth less than £1000, but I saw a thread by DigitalJunior saying he sold his for £1500 after deciding not to repair the engine.
Could really use the advice here.
kind regards
Andy
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| 18th Mar 2018 10:17 pm |
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