Member Since: 11 Apr 2015
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 322
I've just been quoted £450 ish to replace my rear prop, apparently my indie says that someone has repaired / replaced & bodged up the rubber, which clearly hasn't lasted, so for peace of mind I'm opting to have it replaced along with a whole list of other parts they have found. It's going to skint me, but will be worth it in the long run.
Current: D3 2005 HSE
Previous: D2 2001 TD5
D2 4.0 V8
1998 P38 Rangie
24th Nov 2015 6:58 am
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5095
Perhaps they tried to save the extra £6 or so that Sikaflex costs over a normal acrylic sealant, or they didn't clean it properly before doing it. Either way, there is no way I can see that a properly done Sikaflex 'repair' shouldn't last.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
25th Nov 2015 8:29 pm
Nodge68
Member Since: 05 Sep 2014
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1014
£450 sounds a lot for the propshaft to be changed. My new prop cost me £225 iirc and was about 30 minutes to fit.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Freelander SE 2005 Auto.
D3 TDV6. Gone.
25th Nov 2015 9:58 pm
CEZ1869
Member Since: 11 Apr 2015
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 322
It is a little steep, but not able to do myself, AF are doing an OEM for £254 inc, I'd opt for this if I could. But having a few other things done too. Pity we're not a little closer.. Could have lined your pockets with fine labour notes instead
Current: D3 2005 HSE
Previous: D2 2001 TD5
D2 4.0 V8
1998 P38 Rangie
26th Nov 2015 6:58 am
djcleckie
Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Highlands
Posts: 189
I have just been told that a faulty prop. shaft centre bearing is now an MOT fail. (The new MOT)
Can somebody tell me how a faulty centre bearing affects the safety of your vehicle?
Dave2005 SE Manual Cairns Blue
Faultmate MSV2
Series 2 - long gone
RR Classic long gone.
Disco1 believe its still going as a farm vehicle in France.
27th Jun 2018 5:04 pm
a.pinkerton
Member Since: 22 Sep 2019
Location: Portstewart
Posts: 44
Hi guys, after inspecting my propshaft bearing tonight on my 07 when working on other things, I’ve found it to be flapping around everywhere. The rubber is nearly all gone. No symptoms while driving but definitely needs something done with it. I was going to try the sika flex solution at first. Anyone tried it when the rubber is basically all gone? It’s up for mot in a month, any mots failed after the sikaflex?
Thanks
18th Oct 2019 10:57 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
No you need to catch it as its starting to pull away, i think your going to need a new prop
19th Oct 2019 7:37 am
a.pinkerton
Member Since: 22 Sep 2019
Location: Portstewart
Posts: 44
Ok thanks, thought someone might say that. Is the general consensus still that a new prop is better than just doing the bearing? It’s a job I’ll probably get my indie to do, he replaced the bearing on my wife’s touareg about 6 months ago and have had no ill effects so far.
19th Oct 2019 8:35 am
L319
Member Since: 14 Dec 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 2080
My 2005 D3 centre bearing failed last year, circa 145K miles . Changed the whole shaft as I still had WD cover . When off, I found the UJ was seized and one CV boot was split as well, so it needed changing
19th Oct 2019 9:01 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10364
If paying labour charges def change the whole shaft.
19th Oct 2019 9:19 am
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 441
The joints at each end may well be notchy, so a prop change is best course if this is the case. Changing is straightfwd.2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
19th Oct 2019 1:12 pm
a.pinkerton
Member Since: 22 Sep 2019
Location: Portstewart
Posts: 44
Thanks for replies, I’ll check through the forum for how tos, if I do tackle the prop myself. I’m competent at most diy level stuff. Just never done a prop before
19th Oct 2019 7:33 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10364
It’s very easy
Park on flat ground.
Safely jack up the rear on axel stands
Chock front wheels (at the front)
Remove heat shield 8mm socket ?
Then u need some torq E sockets to undo the prop. This is where you need to prepare to ensure you have the correct sockets
Put gearbox in neutral and park brake off
So you can rotate prop to get to all bolts
I found a bottle jack handy to put under the rear suspension on one side.
When tyre touching ground I could torque the bolts up.
Undo center bearing. 13mm socket.
Blar blar etc
Last edited by Pete K on 21st Oct 2019 12:05 pm. Edited 1 time in total
19th Oct 2019 9:05 pm
a.pinkerton
Member Since: 22 Sep 2019
Location: Portstewart
Posts: 44
Thanks Pete, will update once it’s sorted.
Appreciate the advice
20th Oct 2019 10:42 pm
a.pinkerton
Member Since: 22 Sep 2019
Location: Portstewart
Posts: 44
Just a quick update, as I had nothing to lose I gave the sikaflex a go, still seems to be holding solid after a few thousand miles, and passed mot. Thanks for all the tips and advice though, will be coming back to them in the future I’m sure when I eventually do have to replace the whole prop.
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