Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3457
Re: Rear ARB Anti Roll Bar Bushes - how to replace, with pic
ridgeback_moor wrote:
Firstly, I put the vehicle into off road height and removed fuses 3 and 26 in the engine compartment to stop the air suspension from moving once on the axle stands.
Or you could just leave a door open - has the same effect. Only reason I say this is that I just followed this otherwise excellent guide and just found I had replaced Fuse 3 in the wrong slot and thought my compressor had packed-up . Check the fuse bay numbering carefully when replacing them! Slot 3 in the left hand bank is actually Fuse 5 and not related to the air suspension!
Fuse 3 is now in the correct slot again and my compressor runs once more.
Great job on the write-up, though, RBM!
Steve2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
2017 Discovery Sport HSE Auto in Carpathian Grey and Ebony Leather. Modern JLR Junk. Gone.
2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
Just had my rear bushings replaced by my local independent rover shop with part # LR015336. These newer style bushings are much taller than the older bushing and negate the need for the rubber shims part #LR012410.
I'm so happy driving... No more knocking noises from the rear end!!!! This cured the noise issue. The old bushing were toast, I could easily wiggle the bar up/down within the bushing, but no more.1998 Discovery LSE - Gold, 249,000+ miles, completely stock
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30th May 2013 12:55 am
ChrisD3
Member Since: 02 Dec 2012
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 263
Hi all
I'm just in the middle of changing my rear anti roll bar bushes, I've got the old off th car I've cleaned every thing up I got new bolts too just wondering if Loctite is required?
Many thanks
Chris2005 D3 SE Auto
8th Jun 2013 12:34 pm
Ajpf5
Member Since: 13 Jul 2013
Location: Manchester
Posts: 84
Ok some advice needed. Thanks to this great post I started the process but was forced to give up after the bolts got tighter and tighter the more I unfastened them. Dispute 24 hours socked in wd40. I think they are going to snap so I tightened then back up.
Ay ideas as you can't see the rust part of the bolt and I am very nervous in destroying them now
keep going with the lube ... when you cant undo the bolt any more give it a spray then wind it back in a few turns to work the lube in then repeat the process of undoing it until its tight again, spray it and wind it back in again then out .. you get the idea Don’t worry it is supposed to sound like that...honest
1st Sep 2013 8:15 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Well if they move they will come off, but glad you have not forced them.
Try to get some fluid from underneath and when you expose some thread spray them again and wind back down again.
Working them back and forth with plenty fluid is the only DIY way (save heat). As long as you are getting a few more degrees each time you work the bolt back and forth you are winning and the bolt is losing!Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 11 Dec 2012
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 17
Ajpf5 wrote:
Ok some advice needed. Thanks to this great post I started the process but was forced to give up after the bolts got tighter and tighter the more I unfastened them. Dispute 24 hours socked in wd40. I think they are going to snap so I tightened then back up.
Ay ideas as you can't see the rust part of the bolt and I am very nervous in destroying them now
Help please?
Allan
Hi, Dont take the bolts out in one go, apply more wd40 (I would use GT 85) and re-tighten the bolts (not all the way in) and then loosen the bolts again. Repeat the process until the bolts feel loose enough to remove them.
I would sugest new bolts and lots of copper grease once you have the old ones out.
1st Sep 2013 8:27 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Funny, I always type WD40 in my posts for clarity but I only use GT85. It's cheaper, better and smells nice.
I have a tin of PlusGas for times where I want to drip the stuff on.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 13 Jul 2013
Location: Manchester
Posts: 84
Thanks all
Looks like take 2 after work this week. I will spray they everyday with wd40.
Somebody has mentioned innotec delocking oil. Is it worth the £15?
Worst case and the bolt snaps what next?
Thanks all for your quick feedback
Allan
1st Sep 2013 8:33 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Tried all the various super fluids but with negligible difference detected I always go back to the stuff you can afford to drown parts with.
Heat is usually your friend but will melt the bushing in this situation. The workshop manual suggests this is a body off job; if you shear a bolt it really will be.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 13 Jul 2013
Location: Manchester
Posts: 84
Holy smoke - off to LR I go then. Not worth the stress
Thanks all for your help.
Allan
1st Sep 2013 8:40 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Don't give up, it will be fine and my post was to illustrate that even a sheared bolt is recoverable by lifting the body and removing the mounts for better access.
Anyway, don't give your money to an LR dealer - an indie would be better value.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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