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reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
  
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Big thread resurrection.... but this was the first one that came up on a google search!
Whilst doing a mass of maintenance on the D3 I happened to look up towards the EPB module and noticed corrosion on the rear brake pipes so have this joyous job to do...
A few questions though:
1. What brake pipe size is used on the D3? I have a roll of 3/16" brake pipe, flare tool and fittings that I use on the 110. Is it 3/16" on the D3 too? Fingers crossed!
2. I can see the pipe sits under the heat sheilds - do I need to drop the exhaust to remove them to get to the pipe to do this easily?
3. What else would you replace at the rear at the same time? Flexi pipes I guess? Its just had new calipers, discs, pads and handbrake shoes!
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 17th Jan 2022 10:20 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2293
 
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Yes, it is 3/16” brake pipe ( I opted for copper nickel). You do need to remove the exhaust from the joint near where you need to join the pipes, back. I replaced the 2 rear flex pipes each side, and the short steel pipe in between them each side, while I was at it……….Then I noticed the rear propshaft centre bearing was knackered too.  There is a more informative thread on rear brake pipe mot failure somewhere. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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| 17th Jan 2022 10:27 pm |
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reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
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Excellent. Thanks! I think I have most of the kit needed in that case. I have 25ft of cupronickel pipe.
I dont know if my flare tool will do the original steel pipe at the join? https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/hand-held-brake-pipe-flaring-tool - it says for copper or cupronickel - do you reckon it will handle the steel pipe?
I just need to check what joins are needed then.
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| 17th Jan 2022 10:43 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2293
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I used that type of flaring tool, and it coped with steel pipe, and very easily with cupro nickel. Just be sure to thoroughly de burr the pipe ends, and use the supplied grease. Have a look here https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic181382.html D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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| 17th Jan 2022 10:54 pm |
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motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 401
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If you make the joints further forwards (past silencer) the exhaust can stay on. There are a couple of heat shields to remove, not too difficult working overhead but might be awkward crawling underneath. Chris
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| 17th Jan 2022 11:41 pm |
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reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
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Excellent. Thanks both. The link is really handy for the pictures. I didnt find that when I searched before.
I am very lucky in that I have a four post ramp so I can do the job stood up!
Good to hear that the flare tool will cope with the steel pipe. Like others on here I bought all my pipe and fittings from Automec too - the tool itself came from carbuildersolutions as above and is a joy to use - I borrowed a Sealey kit from a friend when I was doing the 110 and the flares were awful. They are perfect with that tool!
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| 18th Jan 2022 12:13 am |
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