Member Since: 20 Jul 2009
Location: Tromsoe
Posts: 89
I did the fitting after spooky, and I must agree with you that the upgrade looks scary at first glance. But if you can source all the parts its not really all bad to do.
If you get hold of the left side wiring, go for the cheapest one with for E-diff because you only need one part of the cable. You have to split out what goes from the e-diff ecu down to the e-diff itself, which would be the same on all cars. The other wires you have to connect to is already there under the C pillar. I wouldn't bother to change the complete wiring on the left side of the car from glove box as you only have to put one 6mm2 main power cable from under the glove box back to the e-diff ecu. The connector for the e-diff ecu is already under glove box so you only need that one main power cable. Most of the work was to get the cables down to the connector on the frame as you have to take every wire out of the plug to pull it in from the connector that goes under the body on the frame.
Other than that you would need the e-diff ecu, e-diff and half shafts. And someone to enable in CCF that the car now has the e-diff fitted.
21st Apr 2013 2:27 pm
marcap599
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Munchen
Posts: 959
Fogga wrote:
But if you can source all the parts its not really all bad to do.
The connector for the e-diff ecu is already under glove box so you only need that one main power cable. Most of the work was to get the cables down to the connector on the frame as you have to take every wire out of the plug to pull it in from the connector that goes under the body on the frame.
Other than that you would need the e-diff ecu, e-diff and half shafts. And someone to enable in CCF that the car now has the e-diff fitted.
Ok, the first and last consideration move me to closer into a DIY activator ECU. The LR ecu cost approx £ 250 and a CCF mod.... no possible for me in Italy (D4), means I have to buy an MSV2 (approx € 800).
I think (for the use I'm planning to have) that a "manual switch on" is so much better (and cheaper, and faster to do) than the total LR integration.
The half-shafts price is aprox £ 120 each.
Firs question: were did you get the actuator plug that fit on the diff?marcap599
21st Apr 2013 9:26 pm
Fogga
Member Since: 20 Jul 2009
Location: Tromsoe
Posts: 89
I got all my parts used from a breaker. They just sent me pictures, and I told them what I wanted and marked on the pics where to cut the cables so I got what I needed.
22nd Apr 2013 11:10 am
marcap599
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Munchen
Posts: 959
Got the replay from the Italian importer of ARB products, they confirm the RD217 will be ready in the summer, price under definition (seems not so far from 1000 €). Only front locker. Pneumatic activation as all the ARB.marcap599
23rd Apr 2013 8:23 am
marcap599
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Munchen
Posts: 959
Well, moving forward with the project.
The DIY electronics is ready, only waiting the actuator to made the test with the software.
Found also the plug to connect it to the diff, waterproof grade and new!!
I hope it will work fine.marcap599
8th May 2013 9:41 pm
marcap599
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Munchen
Posts: 959
One step more: the software into the new PCB is working fine... I'm now missing the full loking diff to test everything togheter and start the mechanical installation.
Some ideas where to take the 12V DC under the body? Better directly from the battery?
Any suggestion where to pass trought with the activating switch from the outside to the inside?
During the development of this system I've asked myself: why don't do something similar to manually activate the central diff lock? Is it the central lock concept like the rear one?
I think that the control on the diffs will help so much in several off-road situation, more than the "automatic solution" made in the terrain response...marcap599
16th Jun 2013 3:25 pm
marcap599
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Munchen
Posts: 959
After some research in LR docs I found some answers:
"The multi-plate clutch assembly for both centre and rear differentials act in a similar way. The aim of the multi-plate clutch
assembly is to prevent excessive differential slip and therefore maximise the traction performance of the vehicle. This is
fundamentally different from the 'braked' traction control, which can only counter act differential slip when it occurs.
A certain amount of differential slip is required to allow the vehicle to turn corners and to remain stable under control of
the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS). The transfer box control module monitors the driver's demands through primary
vehicle controls and automatically sets the slip torque at the differentials. The system is completely automatic and does
not require any special driver input.
The multi-plate clutch assembly actively controls the torque flow through the centre differential and optimises the torque
distribution in the driveline. The clutch assembly biases the torque from the transmission to the axle and wheels with the
higher grip and prevents the wheels with the lower grip from spinning."
This mean that the rear locking diff support "partial loking" like the center one.
Seems very good, I'm going to modify the software of my PCB in order to select the % of locking I want.... partial in some situation and total in hard ones.
I haven't seen other diffs on the market that can do the same, I think that I'll place a rotary control instead of a "on-off" switch.marcap599
18th Jun 2013 10:07 am
Mats
Member Since: 11 Jan 2011
Location: Malmoe
Posts: 17
Rear e-diff
Marcap599 - Any up-dates on your E-diff project?
I was hoping you solved the problem of retrofitting the E-diff without LR electronics and reprograming!
31st Aug 2013 10:38 am
marcap599
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Munchen
Posts: 959
Oh, yes!
I'm only waiting the e-diff! Actually is on the way and I'm really curious to plug everything together.
The PCB and software are working ok on the desk, the original waterproof plug and wiring are ready (all with factory new components), I only need the real DIFF to made the test and fine tuning of the software.
I hope that it came really soon! TNT say: in transit Netherlands. I think I'll get it in some days.marcap599
2nd Sep 2013 7:47 am
Mats
Member Since: 11 Jan 2011
Location: Malmoe
Posts: 17
Hello marcap599! We, at the forum, have all lived in darkness for the last few months. Please, bring us some light and inform us the status for your diff-lock project. Have you run into trouble or has all progressed as planned?
30th Nov 2013 5:47 pm
marcap599
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Munchen
Posts: 959
Oh, yes! Everything is going on.
I got all the components now: e-diff, cable and plug, electronic control.
Just a small delay before putting all toghether, I'm cecking a possibility to upgrade the rear and front half-shafts and cv-joints.
Another reason is that my car is really near to the end of warranty, in 10 days I'll be totally free for more and "hard" modifications: one of this is a big improvment of the shock absorbers.
Stay tuned!marcap599
30th Nov 2013 6:31 pm
trynian
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: California
Posts: 66
For whats it is worth you do not have to change the half shafts. When I installed the factory E-Diff in mine over 2 years ago I used the same half-shafts and it has been fine. I have put it through some very difficult off-road terrain over the last 2 years with no issues.
The only difference between the shafts is heavier outer CV joint. If I ever break one I will replace it with the heavier ones but so far I have not had a need to do it.
11th Dec 2013 7:40 am
ackie
Member Since: 19 May 2014
Location: Rosebud West
Posts: 2
MARCAP599 any update on this please. How did the electric's go. Can you give a bit of a write up on what you did.
ackie
19th May 2014 8:02 am
Spooky
Member Since: 02 Jun 2009
Location: Swindon, Wilts
Posts: 1013
Eletrics are surpisingly simple to sort - the control unit is on the comms netwok (high speed CANBUS), and only needs an ignition supply, a main supply from under the glovebox and a groun in addition.
Obviously, you also need to run the extra loom down to the diff itself ...Regards,
Mick
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20th May 2014 9:36 am
marcap599
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Munchen
Posts: 959
Well, after a long time I now have my e-diff fitted in the D4.
Actually need to plug the electronic module but all the mechanics job are done.
I can confirm that no half-shafts replacement is required.
Befor to plug-in my electronic control prototype I'm looking for the plug for the temperature sensor, I wish to add this control on the board.
I also found a good solution were to came-in the car: in the left side, behind the rear left wheel: a factory rubber with some stamped circles perfect to keep waterproof the body. Easy access for the beta-testing and monitoring the circuit board thank's to the side door on the boot.
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