Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3372
REAR PDC PARKING SENSOR/S REPLACEMENT WITH SOME PICCIES
Hi all, today finally saw the day I had the rear bumper off to replace the inner two sensors, after doing the 'click' test they were the ones that didn't work.
So upon contacting TLO (cheers nick ) I decided to go for two new sensors and a loom as I was only going to take this bumper of the once
So...
tip of the day...
I previously soaked the 3 screws on each mudflap and tightened the screw to crack the rust on the thread then loosen off a quarter turn with copius amounts of penetrating fluid. this was done about a week ago.
the screws are hard to 'lean on' with wheels in situ so I got a stubby crosshead driver with a flat bar against the tyre to push into the screw, so no slippage and chewy chewy of heads.
the one under the mudflap.... I used a jack to push a screwdriver up into the screw, again no slippy slippy
so all this done i was confident that today they would be nice n free...
they were
flat bar helped on one of them again, but I was able to reuse all 6 screws
The prize for fiddly bit was gettin them fixings out inbetween the lower tailgate hinge and bumper lol.
Soooooo
bumper off...
dammed rust...
Click image to enlarge
Soo liberal painting of kurust..
Click image to enlarge
looking better
Click image to enlarge
Landys are sooo easy to take to bits lol
Click image to enlarge
Got the inner bumper foam out at this stage feeding in new loom and the two center sensors which to be honest I wouldnt want to even do the outer ones with the bumper on the vehicle, as they were pretty tight.
Click image to enlarge
and back together
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spot the difference....
Click image to enlarge
all tested ok, flashing light gone from dash
probably took me a couple of hours, including coffee, chat on phone etc..
to be fair looking at the state of that particular sensor in the pic, I would be confident in saying thats where the fault lies as it was soaking inside it too.
the loom probably didnt need replacing but while I was there...
going to test the loom Ive taken off and if ok will let it go on this forum, for a donation to this site.
Nice easy job to do, but them mudflap screws could be a pain if you dont free 'em off beforehand (I did so because I read on this forum they are a if corroded)
Big 'ol thanks to Mr Nick (TLO) for getting alllll my bits I required, not just for this job, others too but not worth a write up
10th Apr 2012 9:11 pm
radders89
Member Since: 30 Aug 2010
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 1051
Excellent pics.
Did mine last year and think I only had problems with 2 sensors but like you I decided to put a new loom in at the same time. Think it saves grief in the long run.
Think I had to drill most of the mud flap screws out though, as I hadn't spent enough time using penetrating fluid.MY15 D4 SDV6 HSE Corris Grey - Gone
MY05 D3 TDV6 SE Zambezi silver Auto Alpaca leather - Gone
MY02' Seat Leon 1.6s Metallic Black cloth trim with a hint of mould
Club Sandwich
Women... Can't live with em, can't kill em...
10th Apr 2012 9:22 pm
yogi972
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3372
Cheers Radders
mine got left for a week because every time I went to start the process, it was either raining or my coffee machine was calling me...
10th Apr 2012 9:31 pm
euangibson
Member Since: 24 Dec 2010
Location: Borders
Posts: 11027
On a (possibly) related subject....my "beep" has gone very shrill and loud....is it more likely to be the speaker than one of the actual sensors ?"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool,than to speak out and remove all doubt" ?.....what rubbish...
Locking rear E-diff
RLD spare wheel protector & sump guard
Extended roof rails
Series 111 mudflaps
Black side tubes,grill and vents
Timed climate remote
Hids4u interior lights
D4 Firenze my2012 HSE
D3 Java 2005 SE manual (sold,sadly,thanks for the memories)
1966 '88 Series 2a....still starts in the morning better than I do...
11th Apr 2012 11:49 am
radders89
Member Since: 30 Aug 2010
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 1051
Not sure tbh. When my speaker went it sounded like a damp fart. Can't really think of any better way to describe it. Disco_Mikey advised me that the speaker had gone so worth sending him a pm to check what he thinks.
Easy to fit a new one if required. MY15 D4 SDV6 HSE Corris Grey - Gone
MY05 D3 TDV6 SE Zambezi silver Auto Alpaca leather - Gone
MY02' Seat Leon 1.6s Metallic Black cloth trim with a hint of mould
Club Sandwich
Women... Can't live with em, can't kill em...
11th Apr 2012 12:57 pm
tony bennett
Member Since: 28 Jul 2005
Location: South West
Posts: 565
Again I make a comment on a post that's nearly a year old so apologies if anyone find's that annoying.
Thanks for posting this breakdown and pics Yogi, can I ask your level of motor mechanical expertise please?
I have had this problem start this week and would like to do the work myself, however having not worked on a car for about 25 years or have the necessary tools in my possession, I class my mechanical ability as "beginner".
I have yet to work out how to remove the rear bumper assembly so I would ask if this is in the scope of ability of a beginner please?regards
tony
05 "Battlestar Galactica"
In 7 years ownership
09/13 New Battery (I did that)
11/13 new alternator. (I did that)
2 x EGR Blanked. (I did that )
Last edited by tony bennett on 6th Mar 2013 2:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total
6th Mar 2013 11:42 am
yogi972
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3372
Yes mate its dead easy, just make sure you got a decent cross head driver to undo the rusted screws that hold on the mud flaps. That was the hardest part.
The rest is release the clips with a flat head screw driver, couple of bolts and it pulls off
My mechanical skills are limited lol
6th Mar 2013 1:26 pm
john ryan
Member Since: 05 Apr 2006
Location: leamington spa
Posts: 121
Tip for doing the outer ones in-situ - the clips can be difficult to release, so carefully drill through from the outside until the remains of the non-working sensor can be pushed through. Then swop over the lead, and reinstall from the inside. Job done in a few minutes.
6th Mar 2013 2:15 pm
Markmein
Member Since: 07 Jul 2012
Location: Chester
Posts: 180
Did mine last week, though took the not removing the bumper approach first one was a royal pain to do but an old screwdriver and a blowtorch to make a special tool to undo the click made the second one about a 10min job.
Only problem now is the bloody thing seems too sensitive as anything in what seems a 50ft range sets it off bleeping!!
6th Mar 2013 2:20 pm
tony bennett
Member Since: 28 Jul 2005
Location: South West
Posts: 565
Thanks Chap's,
I can't actually do the work until I have recovered from an Illness but will have a go as soon as.
Not to sure about a drill or a blowtorch, but maybe that's just a confidence thing regards
tony
05 "Battlestar Galactica"
In 7 years ownership
09/13 New Battery (I did that)
11/13 new alternator. (I did that)
2 x EGR Blanked. (I did that )
6th Mar 2013 2:51 pm
Markmein
Member Since: 07 Jul 2012
Location: Chester
Posts: 180
Blowtorch was to help to bend the screwdriver to make a hooked tool to undo the top clip on the sensor mounting.
Suddenly had visions of melting an access hole in the bumper
6th Mar 2013 2:58 pm
Apache
Member Since: 17 Oct 2011
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 691
Bumper off is quite easy once you have done it once.
1. remove rear wheel arch trim - 1 philips screw and 2 or three trim connectors (raise the centre section and pull out, may come out in 2 pieces but that is easy and they still work afterwards)
2. Undo the two hidden screws revealed after the above trim removed
3. Lay on the floor - there's one screw underneath behind the wheel and then two more each side to a plastic bracket
4. Lever up plastic tread plate on rear bumper - there are 3 black spirals - I found a large screwdriver and just simply unscrewed them
5. Remove the rear lights - 2 screws obvious when lower boot dropped, they pull upwards from the bottom if you've not done it before
6. remove the various trim clips under light.
7. hardest bit is getting to 4 trim clips that can be seen holding the lower boot at an angle of 45° and lifting the flap. I was rough with a pair of needle nosed pliers, but they come out ok. A child from a Vietnamese sweat shop may be useful. By far the worst bit.
8. to remove the bumper pull the wings outwards behind the wheel - they are held on by plastic brackets. A bit of a wiggle and lift upwards helps. It was at this point you see if you have forgotten to do point 7
I've had mine off twice and 2nd time it is a 10 minute job. Getting it back on is not so bad, but the clips behind the wheels can take a wee bit of lining up.
You need a philips screwdriver (stubby) or a philips to 3/8 adaptor and use your ratchet a flat blade screwdriver and some needle nose pliers (Vietnamese child, optional)
6th Mar 2013 3:35 pm
tony bennett
Member Since: 28 Jul 2005
Location: South West
Posts: 565
Thanks for the explanation Apache, absolutely fantastic, Thank You.
I'll check the Argos catalogue to see if it has a Vietnamese section regards
tony
05 "Battlestar Galactica"
In 7 years ownership
09/13 New Battery (I did that)
11/13 new alternator. (I did that)
2 x EGR Blanked. (I did that )
Last edited by tony bennett on 6th Mar 2013 6:03 pm. Edited 1 time in total
6th Mar 2013 3:49 pm
raincloud
Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: nottinghamshire
Posts: 136
just had to change one of mine - fortunately a rear outer - managed to do it without removing the bumper - hardest part was finding the locating clips and working out how to release them -once this was sorted job was easy and only took ten minutes now fully working again so well chuffed
6th Mar 2013 5:04 pm
MarkOne
Member Since: 23 Jul 2011
Location: County Antrim
Posts: 3345
My next job it's been beeping its head off for a year now. Look forward to getting in about it.
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) I decided to go for two new sensors and a loom as I was only going to take this bumper of the once 
if corroded)
