Thank you for the posts regarding replacing the front door latch. I managed to do mine in just under 2 hours today. I did it slightly differently to the instructions and thought I would share with the group:
1) I did not bother to remove the window guide.
2) I did not remove the window modulator. I just removed all the bolts / nuts and slid it out of the way to access the door latch (save messing around trying to get it out of the hole).
3) After fiddling around trying to remove the cables from the door latch, I found it easier to remove the door handle. To do this, follow this sequence:
a) Remove the sticker covering a hole on the interior door skin and use a torx extension to remove the bolt securing the handle.
b) Remove the external door lock cover (the one you use to unlock the door if the battery is flat or central locking not working).
c) Remove the grommet located at handle level above the door latch to expose a torx bolt.
d) Remove the torx bolt and remove the lock barrel.
e) Unhook the door handle. To do this, slide the handle towards the rear of the car and then unhook.
f) When the handle is removed, remove the rubber protection to expose a small oblong plastic locking pin. Remove this and you will be able to release the handle housing by sliding it towards the front of the car. You will then be able to remove the entire latch and handle assembly.
This sounds complicated but it was quite easy and it enables you to easily remove all cables and reattach to the new unit.
Thanks for the above.
Just to point out to other readers that if you are doing the front passenger door (RHD car) then the above guide is essential and (imv) the only way to do it. There is an additional cable to this latch which is extremely difficult to get to through the inside door opening....sadly I found out the hard way by trying until I read the above!
23rd Jan 2017 11:24 am
Member Since: 19 May 2017
I just did this job today. What the hell was that!
What made mine harder is that the latch I took out had an extra motor and wiring harness attachment which prevented me being able to manuovre the latch to undo the external cable clip.
I give a thumbs up to pulling off the external handle instead of undoing the cable clip within the door.
Does anyone know what the extra motor is for? I just put in a new one without the extra motor and everything seems to work fine. I would think it is superfluous except that it has a corresponding connection to my wiring harness. If I google the part number (8X2A21813AC) it refers to a Jaguar.
Pic attached shows new on left and existing on right. Any help appreciated. My car is a 2010 Disco 4 HSE.
Click image to enlarge
19th May 2017 1:28 pm
Member Since: 04 Jul 2016
So I've bought the part and done this change today. Not too bad until I had to remove and re fit the two metal cables, what a nightmare.
Anyway when I remove the part the cable which has a metal rectangle part at the end that slots in the hole (which is tied by a cable tie further up) that bit broke from the bottom so it still fitted but was lose. I tried eeetrjig to secure it on but no avail. I still went forward with the fix in hope it'll work and after around 3 hours the same issue occurs; the door unlocks and locks and opens perfectly fine from the outside but doesn't open from the inside!
Could it be that I need a new cable or is there another fault with mine?Discovery 3 HSE 2007
2nd Sep 2017 2:19 pm
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Sounds like the cable to the inside handle has not been fitted correctly.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
4th Sep 2017 11:03 am
Member Since: 04 Jul 2016
Cable to the handle had snapped one side (very small part but enough to make it not work).
£10 of ebay this time the whole job took less than an hour with great results.
All works fine now.Discovery 3 HSE 2007
23rd Sep 2017 12:10 am
Member Since: 04 Sep 2017
Just done mine, this guide proved very useful, thank you!!
Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Hi quick question
My10 offside rear door actuator needed. Is the wireless a different part number or not relevant?
Ps anywhere selling them cheap seem to be 110plus vat now
6th Nov 2017 9:59 pm
Member Since: 13 Nov 2017
Hi, Well I've just bought a 2006 LHD 4.0 HSE LR3 which seems to have the same problem (didn't pick it up when I checked the vehicle!). It's the LHS drivers door that won't lock (all others lock and unlock fine) .
I tried the reset by holding the lock button in position and pulling the outside handle but it didn't work.
What's interesting is that even when I use the key to manually lock the car the door still won't lock, but the key does lock all the other doors.
My question is, do these symptoms suggest that the door actuator has failed and thus requires the lock change described in this post?
13th Nov 2017 7:07 pm
Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Quick update. The part number has changed again but LR would not share. He did say it started with a 9 though. Note this is for a keyless vehicle and was £145!
Decided to strip the old motor down first and yep it was full of crud. Cleaned and replaced and everything is perfect again. Tested the motor in the bench for a while and works a dream.
All back together and re installed
Couple of things.
Didn’t take the window motor section out just pushed it to one side.
And took the outer door handle off took 5 mins and thus didn’t even detach both the internet or external wire connectors.
Going to strip down the other side clean and rebuild
Thanks to this I have saved £145 plus 3 hours LR labour.
I had these motors in my model railway engines. Please consider just cleaning your motor before you splash the cash.
14th Nov 2017 7:07 pm
Member Since: 22 May 2017
I have this problem with my 2006 HSE nsf door will not lock or unlock with remote, at first it was intermittent but now it just refuses to work, can still open door from inside & pressing lock on inside locks door ok. Just to clarify is it possible to actually take the motors apart or is the crud you are referring to just inside the latch itself. I really don’t want to pay LR that much if I can fix it myself. Thanks Tom
4th Feb 2018 10:14 am
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Before i go and order a new actuator, is the switch for the interior lights incorporated into the unit ? , my only issue is interior light not going out causing the system to stay in wake mode and flattening the battery.
8th Feb 2018 10:42 pm
Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Bit more involved than defender
8th Feb 2018 10:55 pm
Member Since: 12 Aug 2014
What ever you do, don't try and muck round and remove the outside door handle cable from the actuator.
It's to painful to detach the cable, instead keep the cable
Attached and remove the outside door handle, cable and
Actuator altogether, once removed its 10,000% easier
to detach (and reattach ) the cable from the actuator.
Great thread, did this repair yesterday and wish had headed this advice from another thread.
Managed to get it all done without any drama until realised had damaged interior lock cable grommit when removing it as was really stiff to get off - part numbers anyone
There are two other internal cables which look very close although one is from handle to mechanism.
I think what you have in your picture is FQZ000205 (ROD WITH LOCK BARREL APERTURE LH SIDE ONLY) rather than LR013916 (CABLE INTERNAL DOOR RELEASE CONTROL) because the latter looks a bit different at least in one end (a “cover” can be seen in the picture) but perhaps it is just the way you took the photo.
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