Fed up with restricted performance error and fault code p2264, have decided that the sensor is faulty as checked fuel in filter and there definitely wasnt any water in it and am going to replace the fuel filter housing
Anything difficult about this procedure ?D4 2010 HSE Santorini Black
D3 2005 SE Java Black - p/x to D4
D2 2001 GS - p/x to D3
D1 1998 - p/x to D2
9th Nov 2015 2:00 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
The are pretty fiddly to get out the hole. There is JUST enough space between the chassis and floor to extract the housingMy D3 Build Thread
D4 2010 HSE Santorini Black
D3 2005 SE Java Black - p/x to D4
D2 2001 GS - p/x to D3
D1 1998 - p/x to D2
9th Nov 2015 8:51 pm
LIAMMCL
Member Since: 27 Aug 2013
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 404
I've just ordered one today. The warning popped up last night and I'm not wasting time draining it etc. £60 +vat for housing with filter included. I might wait for you to do it first though
9th Nov 2015 9:32 pm
JksD4
Member Since: 31 Mar 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 100
Try cleaning electrical connection first
Had the water in fuel error on my D4 for ages. Managed to clear by cleaning the sensor and the electrical connector (used electrical contact cleaner) £60 saved.
Suspect it same on later D3, but the bracket has a back section that makes it a b**gg*r to extract without removing the cross member underneath)
Will post pictures when get back on my PC
Cheapest I could find was £78 from Harwoods eBay shop
My brother will be fitting it in the next couple of weeks - will let you know how we get on !D4 2010 HSE Santorini Black
D3 2005 SE Java Black - p/x to D4
D2 2001 GS - p/x to D3
D1 1998 - p/x to D2
Job done - Had to lower the cross member to get the housing out !
That bit took an hour and a half
Made a slight modification by cutting the corner off the new one and put it straight in
D4 2010 HSE Santorini Black
D3 2005 SE Java Black - p/x to D4
D2 2001 GS - p/x to D3
D1 1998 - p/x to D2
23rd Nov 2015 8:08 am
darrener
Member Since: 07 Jul 2016
Location: Western Isles
Posts: 17
Success ! - no more Water in Fuel
Thanks to all above. I finally managed to clear my Water in Fuel dashboard warning.
I started out opening the drain - but there was no water there. I installed a new filter - no change. I cleaned all the contacts - unplugging them - to see if the warning went away - nope. I finally gave in and bought a new filter housing. After much swearing, I managed to get the old one out without dropping the crossmember. The new one went in easily, after cutting the corner off, as above. There were a few nervous moments while the filter and lines refilled - as the Water in Fuel warning stayed on. Eventually it cleared, presumably when the system bled. All sorted without an IID tool. Disco3.co once again saves me a fortune.
9th Feb 2018 8:46 pm
skipyskiphire
Member Since: 02 Feb 2008
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 29
For what they're worth, these are my observations/opinions for the dreaded, intermittent 'Water in Fuel' warning when there is clearly NO water in the fuel.
I opted for the 'Replacement Fuel Filter Housing with Water Sensor Wire Repair Kit', from JGS 4x4.
This is the part that the Fuel Filter screws up into, which incorporates the fuel inlet/outlets and the Water in Fuel Sensor and Wiring.
If you are getting the above warning AND there is no water in the Fuel Filter, then it is more likely that THIS is the part that you need, rather than the probe that fits onto the bottom of the Fuel Filter (However, note my 'Two weeks later' comments towards the end of this post).
I class myself as just above novice and I warn you, that IMHO, this is quite a difficult job and not for the faint hearted, as it seems to me as if Land Rover attached the Fuel Filter Housing and metal bracket to the chassis and then built the rest of the car around it!
I managed to do it without completely removing the metal bracket that holds the Fuel Filter Housing in place and without dropping the crossmember…… It ‘may’ be easier to do either or both of the above, but either way, space is limited, and it is fiddly.
I would strongly recommend using a 7mm Ratchet Spanner and you may need a telescopic magnet tool for retrieving any lost screws (that’s me being pessimistic from my experience).
Once you have access to the Fuel Filter, disconnect the two wiring plugs (the larger one from the wiring loom and the smaller one from the probe fitted to the bottom of the Fuel Filter).
Some may differ in opinion, but I found it easier to remove both the Fuel Filter and the two bolts that hold the metal bracket in place (you can see/feel the bolts in the area just this side of the base of the filter), as doing so gives you a few more valuable mm to play with.
I then bent the top of the metal bracket (which holds the Fuel Filter Housing in place) down slightly and used the 7mm ratchet spanner to undo the three self-tapping screws which hold the top of the Fuel Filter Housing to the metal bracket, being careful not to drop the screws (if you do, curse and use the magnet to poke around inside the crossmember gaps below the base of the metal bracket).
There are two Fuel Pipes attached to the top of the Fuel Filter Housing, and you need to squeeze a certain soft rubbery part of the fitting to release the clip whilst gently pulling the fitting away from the housing. The nearest one is simple enough, but the rear one is a bit hit and miss, just keep squeezing whilst pulling until you find that soft spot........ The Filter Housing should now lift out.
The 7mm screws that fit into the top of the housing are self-tapping rather than fine threaded, so re-fitting them into the new housing can be 'trying' due to the lack of space and thread. I found it marginally easier to 1. Insert the screws into the new housing and then remove them ‘before’ re-fitting the housing (to start the self-tapping process) and 2. Start by replacing the nearest screw first (to line up the holes) and then work back to the middle one and then the rear one, for which I used a tiny spot of grease to hold the screw into the spanner, otherwise you risk dropping it..... again!
Replace the Fuel Pipes by sliding them back onto the fitting until you feel a reassuring click. Start with the rear one, which again, is more difficult than the nearer.
Replace the two bolts that secure the metal bracket in place, note that at the rear right hand bottom corner of the metal bracket, there is a lip that must be slotted over the lip on the chassis to 1. hold the rear of the bracket in place and 2. enable the two bolt holes to line up. If you look up from underneath the car in this area, you can see what I mean.
Replace the Fuel Filter and re-connect the two wiring plugs.
At this point, I turned the ignition on and off two or three times, to prime the Fuel Filter, checked for leaks, found none, and started the engine....... Woof…… Sorted!
*******************************
Two weeks later and touch wood, all was well. So, I took a closer look at the old Fuel Filter Housing to see if I could ascertain what was wrong with it.
The wiring plugs both looked sound and clean, and the four wires enter a unit that fits on the top of the Fuel Filter Housing. Again, the wiring looks sound, with good continuity from the plugs to the sealed unit.
The unit itself is well sealed and inaccessible. I prised/cut it open, and it contains a circuit board.
This unit is attached to the top of the Fuel Filter Housing and held in place with one TX20 screw. This screw also secures an earth connection, which in turn connects to a spring wire that connects to the top of the metal Fuel Filter when it is screwed tightly in place. It is rudimentary but functional.
I did note that the earth connection (as described above) was slightly corroded on both the top and the underside and as such, continuity between the metal spring and the connector was a tad intermittent. As such, this 'may', I repeat 'may' be the problem and all could be cleaned with emery paper and contact cleaner.
However, if the fault lies within the sealed circuit board, that's it and you will need the new part.
Personally, for the sake of £62 or so, the time involved and because it is (touch wood) proven, I would replace the Fuel Filter Housing, but if you like working under cars, cleaning the earth connector, spring wire and screw might be worth a go and let us know if it works long term!
Last edited by skipyskiphire on 14th Apr 2024 4:13 pm. Edited 2 times in total
6th Apr 2024 8:32 pm
RPAtotheStars
Member Since: 15 Sep 2023
Location: Dorset
Posts: 30
Hello,
I have just completed the same repair as the "Water in Fuel" warning has been on since I got the D3 in January. I original changed the filter and sensor but that didn't solve it and a bit more investigation seem to point to the wiring issue on the housing.
I removed the old filter and sensors so I could remove the two retaining bolts. I then removed the fuel lines (very good description from skipyskiphire) and then folded the top towards the bottom so I could pull it out. I have a new housing and all the bits so wasn't bothered if I bent the old housing.
I cut the slice off as the picture above and it fitted in easily. The angle of the cut was important and I was lucky as mine seemed to be spot on. I put the housing back in place with all the bits attached i.e. with the new filter and sensor all fitted.
I refitted fuel lines and then checked them again and all seems well and after priming the error went away yippee.
I didn't drop the crossmember as I had the car jacked up and was worried it would be under tension as the axle stands were on the frame and the frame connects to the crossmember.
As it was I didn't need to as cutting that slice off the new housing was the key to putting it all back ok.
Ok just the binding rear nearside brake and the drivers door seal to sort
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