Member Since: 11 Jun 2017
Location: Isle of Islay
Posts: 66
Revolving shells am I nuts?
Right I'm sitting at 148k I enjoyed my hols in Somerset except the £100 and 3 points coming home at Taunton
I spent a lot of time thinking about these shells
So here's my idea up on ramps drop sump and remove bottom end she'll bearings bottom part only one at a time and bore an 8th part hole between the she'll and the cast then insert an 8th part hardened dowel flush in hole then rebolt up
What do you think or am I nuts
16th Sep 2017 3:55 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
At 150K I guess you don't have a lot to loose.
Getting to the crank is a bit more difficult than you think.
You need to remove the radiator fan and all plastic cowling.
Unbolt the bottom of the engine, and giggle it up past the radiator.
If I made that sound easy you also need to:
remove the starter
disconnect the dip stick tube (don't fully remove it though)
disconnect the turbo oil drain
pull out the small pas pipes out the rack
remove the aux belt and the tensioner and its mount.
16th Sep 2017 4:25 pm
3disco
Member Since: 23 Sep 2010
Location: devon chardstock
Posts: 504
I would leave well alone,as you asked your nuts!
16th Sep 2017 4:31 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
You don't need to be nuts, but it helps!!
16th Sep 2017 4:33 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Nuts and you will introduce potential problems.
I think you will find the shells dont just rotate for fun, something has to happen to make them pick up then they go tits up, low oil/engine overheat/lack of servicing etc
Plenty of engines out there running the same setup, td5 for example is one and they are capable of serious mileage.
All engines have their weaknesses, people just make them more obvious by being cheap skates and not servicing them before time.
16th Sep 2017 6:38 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
None of the above in my case, if that's what happened but the techies-in-chief think it was. Oil level checked regularly, never needed any, she even had oil changes every 7k miles in the last couple of years, and 4K miles before she died. She wanted for nothing, anything that even vaguely looked like it needed done was done coz I naively thought she would live for ever. Not a mistake I'll make again.
16th Sep 2017 6:52 pm
Erea
Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Munster
Posts: 1509
Pete K wrote:
At 150K I guess you don't have a lot to loose.
Getting to the crank is a bit more difficult than you think.
You need to remove the radiator fan and all plastic cowling.
Unbolt the bottom of the engine, and giggle it up past the radiator.
If I made that sound easy you also need to:
remove the starter
disconnect the dip stick tube (don't fully remove it though)
disconnect the turbo oil drain
pull out the small pas pipes out the rack
remove the aux belt and the tensioner and its mount.
All that just to get the sump off?
16th Sep 2017 7:00 pm
hillbillypop
Member Since: 11 Jun 2017
Location: Isle of Islay
Posts: 66
3disco wrote:
I would leave well alone,as you asked your nuts!
It's my understanding the shells move due to not having an indent to stop them turning by puttng the dowel in I have introduced the indent stopping the she'll turning surely if I do it right it's a lot better and safer than driving down the
Fast lane and getting bang wallop nowhere to go man!
I haven't looked under this piece of wonder I only see six big end shells.Having seen a complete crank and piston setup on eBay I asked local garage how much he would want to fit
His answer was it would take up to much Time on his ramps so wasn't interested.
New engine is out of the question as its out of warranty
So nuts or not I reckon it's worth a try
16th Sep 2017 7:31 pm
3disco
Member Since: 23 Sep 2010
Location: devon chardstock
Posts: 504
Do you really want to weaken the bottom end even more with a new hole and possible stresses caused by fitting a dowl which if it moved even slightly would score the crank or fall out,l think that although some engines might be flawed the designers that made them were not complete fools and if it needed a dowel would have fitted one,just my opinion.
16th Sep 2017 7:41 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
3disco wrote:
the designers that made them were not complete fools
Agreeing with that view would depend on whether you've had an engine fail or not.
16th Sep 2017 7:45 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
DSL wrote:
None of the above in my case, if that's what happened but the techies-in-chief think it was. Oil level checked regularly, never needed any, she even had oil changes every 7k miles in the last couple of years, and 4K miles before she died. She wanted for nothing, anything that even vaguely looked like it needed done was done coz I naively thought she would live for ever. Not a mistake I'll make again.
Did you own the car from new?
16th Sep 2017 7:59 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
Yep, well near enough. Ex demo so couple of months old and 578 miles on the clock. Always serviced before or bang on schedule and mostly through Guava so a dealer that knows what they are doing.
16th Sep 2017 8:01 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Well thats new in my book, I was wondering if it was pre owned you never know whats happened to it in the past
16th Sep 2017 8:08 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72775
Unfortunately seems to be a complete lottery, not one I'll be participation in from now on. As soon as I can't get a decent warranty for my D4 she'll be gone.
16th Sep 2017 8:14 pm
hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
To what extent can worn injectors cause engine failure ( overfueling diluting oil) ?
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