Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
My view is that your initial readings are not bad. given that you have changed the LPFP the fluctuation is not a good sign. i don't think that HPFP has anything to do with this since those measurements are just before the pump.
most likely this fluctuation triggers the faults as the HPFP doesn't 'see' the correct pressure on the suction and shuts down her operation.
interesting thing is to find out the cause of the fluctuation, again given that LPFP is changed. have you checked the pipes from the reservoir to the engine? fuel filter?
if there is no leak there or any pipe has been cut second thing i would check is the wiring
14th Sep 2017 4:45 pm
Member Since: 24 Sep 2015
Well I have changed the LPFP with a Land Rover pump but disappointingly nothing has changed.
The pressure is steady at 6.5 psi and a current draw of 3.4 Amps with the engine off. With the engine running the pressure fluctuates wildly and the current draw is 4.1 Amps.
Could the fluctuating pressure be caused by the HPFP?
The fault codes seem to alternate between P0087-00 (fuel rail/system pressure too low) and P2290-00 (injector control pressure too low)
It's probably worth seeing if you can borrow another known working gauge as well after doing some research fluctuations like that can be a faulty gauge as well especially if you haven't used it on anything else before.
Having said that I have also heard of mechanics having to test fuel pumps before installing because they have had DOA pumps straight from factory and had to drop the tank multiple times. Not with our car but Ford fuel pumps.
If you go back to page 5 of this thread someone else had same issues as you replaced the LPFP same as you but only replacing the HPFP fixed the P2290-00 so I think you might have a bad HPFP. I would think a bad HPFP would also cause P0087-00. I have a very bad LPFP and I don't get either of these DTCs.
Even with a cheap scan tool you can get rail pressure iCar 930 for example - my rail pressure is fine even with a crappy 2.8A/4PSI max/9 seconds to prime LPFP.
15th Sep 2017 5:26 am
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
that other was me. i had a P0087 and proved to be the HPFP, problem though is the fluctuation on the gauge. but as you rightly say can be the gauge itself.
15th Sep 2017 5:49 am
Member Since: 08 May 2017
Location: South West
OK Guys, the disco is back from the local independent guy. When it was delivered to him it wouldn't run over 2000 without bing-bong and drop to idle. The following day it wouldn't start at all and ultimately a service exchange main injection pump and recon injectors were fitted. I don't follow this as such because there was no inkling of running problems as per poor start / running / misfiring etc but those are the pitfalls of modern systems.
Needless to say, it fired instantly and went off up the road like a raped ape. My neighbour is very glad to get it back with full power and normal service has resumed.
Time will tell as to any longevity of this fix but I've kept up my story in case anybody else with similar problems can benefit.
Regards to all.
Paul, based on this.
“The above pump is drawing 8.8 amps and was tested in the recent milder weather. The same LPFP drew 9.9 amps in the colder weather when the diesel was a little thicker. As this is a safe value for DMMs it is possible to plug in a regular meter and check for close to zero amps when ignition is off as well as recording the full current draw: “
I would say yours is fubared(assuming you’ve tested it in the same way as Robbie) Bodsys Brake Bible
I have just ordered one of these sounds like a good idea to carry with me. Excellent write up also getting fuse meter leads another addition to my in car test kit.
10th Jan 2018 7:13 am
Member Since: 19 Sep 2010
I wounder if my LPFP is failling, but i cant realy make sense of these readings. And i would like to be sure before i order a new one.
I made a recording of the preassure at the shrader vale and at the same time meassured the amps the pump draws in the fuse box:
- First turning the ignition ON.
- Then starting the engine.
- Trying to rev the engine (cant get more then 2000RPM).
- Stopped the engine.
I then disconnected the amp meter, but forgot to replace the fuse. The engine still started just fine, but the gauge was shoving vacum and i realised what was missing.
If i disconnect the gauge and put the hose in a bottle, it fills up half a litre in about 20sec. One should think this would be enough? And the pressure seems fine before starting the engine. Anybody having any idees?
The car is ofcourse not drivebal at al.
Update since i found the fault. One of the injectors was stuck. Probably in open possition so that the preasure could not build up. Changed it and the car worked fine again:)
Sorry for messing up the thread.
Last edited by tovp on 25th Apr 2018 4:49 pm. Edited 2 times in total
8th Mar 2018 12:48 pm
Member Since: 19 Oct 2013
If I have no fuel to the valve on the engine would I be correct to assume the Lpfp has had it?
Broke down on the way home after the faults and going into limp mode and won’t start
12th Apr 2018 8:41 pm
Member Since: 17 Dec 2017
Location: Horsholm or Birmingham
Not nessacerily - take the time to check the fuse / wiring first Had 3 garages tell me it was the pump, the actually the wires had just corroded under the drivers door
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