Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
My view is that your initial readings are not bad. given that you have changed the LPFP the fluctuation is not a good sign. i don't think that HPFP has anything to do with this since those measurements are just before the pump.
most likely this fluctuation triggers the faults as the HPFP doesn't 'see' the correct pressure on the suction and shuts down her operation.
interesting thing is to find out the cause of the fluctuation, again given that LPFP is changed. have you checked the pipes from the reservoir to the engine? fuel filter?
if there is no leak there or any pipe has been cut second thing i would check is the wiring
14th Sep 2017 4:45 pm
Member Since: 24 Sep 2015
Well I have changed the LPFP with a Land Rover pump but disappointingly nothing has changed.
The pressure is steady at 6.5 psi and a current draw of 3.4 Amps with the engine off. With the engine running the pressure fluctuates wildly and the current draw is 4.1 Amps.
Could the fluctuating pressure be caused by the HPFP?
The fault codes seem to alternate between P0087-00 (fuel rail/system pressure too low) and P2290-00 (injector control pressure too low)
It's probably worth seeing if you can borrow another known working gauge as well after doing some research fluctuations like that can be a faulty gauge as well especially if you haven't used it on anything else before.
Having said that I have also heard of mechanics having to test fuel pumps before installing because they have had DOA pumps straight from factory and had to drop the tank multiple times. Not with our car but Ford fuel pumps.
If you go back to page 5 of this thread someone else had same issues as you replaced the LPFP same as you but only replacing the HPFP fixed the P2290-00 so I think you might have a bad HPFP. I would think a bad HPFP would also cause P0087-00. I have a very bad LPFP and I don't get either of these DTCs.
Even with a cheap scan tool you can get rail pressure iCar 930 for example - my rail pressure is fine even with a crappy 2.8A/4PSI max/9 seconds to prime LPFP.
15th Sep 2017 5:26 am
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
that other was me. i had a P0087 and proved to be the HPFP, problem though is the fluctuation on the gauge. but as you rightly say can be the gauge itself.
15th Sep 2017 5:49 am
Member Since: 08 May 2017
Location: South West
OK Guys, the disco is back from the local independent guy. When it was delivered to him it wouldn't run over 2000 without bing-bong and drop to idle. The following day it wouldn't start at all and ultimately a service exchange main injection pump and recon injectors were fitted. I don't follow this as such because there was no inkling of running problems as per poor start / running / misfiring etc but those are the pitfalls of modern systems.
Needless to say, it fired instantly and went off up the road like a raped ape. My neighbour is very glad to get it back with full power and normal service has resumed.
Time will tell as to any longevity of this fix but I've kept up my story in case anybody else with similar problems can benefit.
Regards to all.
Paul, based on this.
“The above pump is drawing 8.8 amps and was tested in the recent milder weather. The same LPFP drew 9.9 amps in the colder weather when the diesel was a little thicker. As this is a safe value for DMMs it is possible to plug in a regular meter and check for close to zero amps when ignition is off as well as recording the full current draw: “
I would say yours is fubared(assuming you’ve tested it in the same way as Robbie) Bodsys Brake Bible
I have just ordered one of these sounds like a good idea to carry with me. Excellent write up also getting fuse meter leads another addition to my in car test kit.
10th Jan 2018 7:13 am
Member Since: 19 Sep 2010
I wounder if my LPFP is failling, but i cant realy make sense of these readings. And i would like to be sure before i order a new one.
I made a recording of the preassure at the shrader vale and at the same time meassured the amps the pump draws in the fuse box:
- First turning the ignition ON.
- Then starting the engine.
- Trying to rev the engine (cant get more then 2000RPM).
- Stopped the engine.
I then disconnected the amp meter, but forgot to replace the fuse. The engine still started just fine, but the gauge was shoving vacum and i realised what was missing.
If i disconnect the gauge and put the hose in a bottle, it fills up half a litre in about 20sec. One should think this would be enough? And the pressure seems fine before starting the engine. Anybody having any idees?
The car is ofcourse not drivebal at al.
Update since i found the fault. One of the injectors was stuck. Probably in open possition so that the preasure could not build up. Changed it and the car worked fine again:)
Sorry for messing up the thread.
Last edited by tovp on 25th Apr 2018 4:49 pm. Edited 2 times in total
8th Mar 2018 12:48 pm
Member Since: 19 Oct 2013
If I have no fuel to the valve on the engine would I be correct to assume the Lpfp has had it?
Broke down on the way home after the faults and going into limp mode and won’t start
12th Apr 2018 8:41 pm
Member Since: 17 Dec 2017
Location: Horsholm or Birmingham
Not nessacerily - take the time to check the fuse / wiring first Had 3 garages tell me it was the pump, the actually the wires had just corroded under the drivers door
14th Apr 2018 11:25 pm
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Hi guys. Sorry to resurrect an old thread but seem a better option than starting new. I got the dread P2290 last night. All the yellow lights, on the bump stops and limp home mode. Switch off and restart and the car came back to life. I've read this thread with interest and wonder if one of the more knowledgeable peeps can confirm my suspicions. As per this thread I did an Amp draw this morning. Just to confirm my car is a D3 2.7 with 95k miles. It's 2008 and is euro4 compliant. Absolutely standarded including the EGRs. My pump is drawing just 3amps. Did a pressure test. Engine off ignition on 6psi, start up from cold give it a sniff of throttle not under load and the needle drops back to nearly non existent. Unfortunately on my gauge the first ten psi is in a very narrow scale. So hard to get exact figures. With the figures I'm getting would that point to the lift pump. We we're cruising at 50mph I then accelerated to 70 briskly in 6th (manual box) when she threw her toys out the pram. Needle doesn't fluctuate just drops like a stone. If the impellars are worn/broke would this account for obviously the low pressure but also the low current draw? I'm guessing if fuel filtre which has only dome about 5k miles since change was clogging then the low pressure would be explained but not the low current. If the fuel reg was banjaxed once again I'M guessing pressure issues but not low current. Is it time for a new pump?
4th Aug 2018 8:05 am
Member Since: 22 Feb 2016
After my experience I doubt that it’s the low pressure pump. But the high pressure pump is expensive so I am loathed to recommend changing that first, although I bet that is at fault.
You can start with the filter, the low pressure pump and the rail pressure sensor, but if you can get the high pressure reading from something like an iid tool that might give you a clue also.
Sorry not much help really.Simon.
2008MY Dicovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual
5th Aug 2018 8:37 am
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
I'll get some readings, what figures should I be seeing for a healthy pump?
I think I may be suffering from similar symptoms. My 08 plate D3 has spent the last week or so throwing a MAP code, smoking badly and doing really badly fuel wise. It's also, over the last month or so, had about a dozen occasions where the dash has lit up like a christmas tree (transmisison fault, suspension fault, engine fault, etc.) dropped to bump stops and gone into a severe limp.
Cleaned the MAP sensor which was covered in crud so that's sorted that, but since then I've now had several instances of the dashboard lights.
I've had a number of P123A (Barometric pressure - Turbocharger/supercharger boost correlation - Sensor A) which could be the dodgy turbo I have (I put one on off a RRS and it's never been right) and P0101 (Mass or volume air flow - circuit range/performance)
One fault that I've seen a lot is P2290 (Injector control pressure too low) and I'm sure there was another but I seem to have saved the file weirdly and can't read it, and I've since cleared the codes.
I've ordered a gauge to test with also, so will update when I know some more - what I do have currently is a lot of smoke when driving which is weird? Am I looking at the wrong things here - i.e. fueling, or should I be looking more at the turbo?Alex Threlfall (Nanocom Evolution Owner)
Disco TD5 Auto - TD5 Alived! with mental mods
Disco 3 HSE Auto - Pending lots of mods! + Nanocom Evolution
If you can't be a good example, at least be a horrible warning.
6th Aug 2018 11:18 pm
Member Since: 15 May 2012
Brilliant write up Robbie, has helped me lots. My 2006 sport eventually died today. Wont start at all now. I had the 2290 code up.
My Gap has also decided to kick the bucket so I cant look at live values.
Fuse 1 is fine and has power to both sides on the purge sequence.
R8 relay pulls in. I removed the plastic shrowd and push the relay in manually whilst pressing the schraeder. I have no fuel pressure there at all.
Was getting no reading at all on amp meter.
So my next question is where do i go from here?
where do the pump wires run too? and where can i test before I pull the tank off to check the pump?
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