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Doctor Diesel
Member Since: 23 Sep 2006
Location: Driving the kids around as usual
Posts: 1587
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I know, I know been done to death but some further questions
Would you say the thule ones are stronger than the OE ones?(better built)
what is the price of the OE ones...there seems to be several pairs on ebay at £110 which is pretty much the cost of the thule bars/feet
Finally, has anyone put 2 pairs on at the same time??? 2007 HSE Java Black.....sold
2007 B150 Horizon Blue
2008 Toyota Aygo Platinum
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The Master of Suave !
Ding-Dong Matron
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24th Nov 2006 11:37 am |
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Airboss
Member Since: 07 Sep 2006
Location: Washington
Posts: 16
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Here in the States I paid about $150 + tax for the OE bars. I didn't do my research however, and discovered a month later that both Thule and Yakima solutions were available. Here are just three reasons to go with the aftermarket bars: 1) The OE bars whistle something awful over 50mph when there is nothing attached to them; 2) When attaching aftermarket equipment to the OE bars, the manufacturer will not warrant their product because it is not attached to their crossbars; 3) Finally, aftermarket bars are more versitle. For instance, you can purchase artermarket bars that slightly overhang the vehicle which allows more room for accessories. With the OE bars I am not able to put a ski rack and cargo box on the roof at the same time. Aftermarket bars allow this type of configuration.
I don't know if there are any Yakima dealers in the UK, but it is certainly worth checking out. On this side of the pond Yakima is preferred over Thule.
Last edited by Airboss on 24th Nov 2006 6:51 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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24th Nov 2006 5:04 pm |
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chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
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Have a look at my gallery as I have Atera Roof bars and they are great. I did 2660 miles in France with 3 kayaks on and they never moved. Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
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24th Nov 2006 5:50 pm |
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croyde
Member Since: 17 Aug 2005
Location: SE England
Posts: 459
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Another, possibly dumb, question. Do you completely remove the protective strip when fitting roof rails or do you cut bits to fit back in place.
Ta.
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24th Nov 2006 6:04 pm |
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croyde
Member Since: 17 Aug 2005
Location: SE England
Posts: 459
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Sorry to bring this one to the top again but what do you do with the covering strip when you add roof rails?
Cheers.
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27th Nov 2006 2:44 pm |
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catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
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some have stated that they remove the strips and replace them when the rack is removed while others have cut them to fit around the feet which seems to be the preferred option if you leave your rack on.
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27th Nov 2006 2:50 pm |
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croyde
Member Since: 17 Aug 2005
Location: SE England
Posts: 459
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Thanks mate, now who can tell where I can get my hands on some rails at best price. I see them on eBay for around £110 plus another £15 postage. Can anyone beat that?
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27th Nov 2006 4:07 pm |
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retired
Member Since: 18 Feb 2006
Location: Surrey
Posts: 158
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Re Atera roof bars. Be careful, I've bought a pair and there is at least one defective batch from Atera. The bolts that clamp the foot to the D3 are slightly too long and they make contact with the car roof. Also the head of these bolts is too high preventing the (decorative) end panels being attached.
Atera have been promising new bolts for ages now with no result.
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27th Nov 2006 4:24 pm |
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