Member Since: 07 Aug 2006
Location: Somerset
Posts: 169
My cable arrived safely this morning & looking at the size of the connectors i'm glad i didn't attempt the clamping routine. I have bought a cable with a male connector or one end & a female on the other. Which end do i cut off & fit an AV plug onto?
11th Jan 2010 12:16 pm
Bill Turner
Member Since: 17 Jan 2010
Location: Birkenhead
Posts: 4
Hi Wiggs,
I was spending an idle Sunday afternoon trawling trough the FL2 forum (as you do) while SWMBO is watching the snooker on TV and followed a link in connection with reversing cameras. and noticed that you can unlock off road satnav.
Question is this possible for FL2's and if so what is the cost.
Would probably better for me if you could e-mail a reply so save me having to hop back and forth from FL2.
I await you reply with interest.
Best regards,
Bill Turner.
17th Jan 2010 5:06 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
Hi Bill
Unfortunatly not ..i only have a licence for the D3 G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
17th Jan 2010 7:59 pm
Bill Turner
Member Since: 17 Jan 2010
Location: Birkenhead
Posts: 4
Wiggs,
Thanks anyway.
If you get the reversing camera thing sorted I would be interested in knowing how much an installation would cost?
Please (if you remember) send me a PM.
Cheers,
Bill T.
17th Jan 2010 11:26 pm
Bill Turner
Member Since: 17 Jan 2010
Location: Birkenhead
Posts: 4
Hi Wiggs,
Just reread your post. Does it imply that the FL2 off road nav system can be unlocked if a licence is obtained?
If so do you happen to "know a man who can"?
Bill.
17th Jan 2010 11:35 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
I have had a look in the flashing files and cannot see the ones for sat nav on the move . I will check it out for you and see if it is possible .G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
18th Jan 2010 12:49 am
discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
Wiggs, which model would be best for versatility (additional inputs in the future)?
This one seems to even have touchscreen control???
Audio & Visual Input (OPV-1LR)
AV M.O.S.T® input for seemless integration of aftermarket products with the factory navigation system including touch control
* Video Input
* M.O.S.T® Stereo Audio Input
* PAL & NTSC Compatible
* Analogue & Digital Compatible
* Video In Motion
* Plug & Play Connection
Programable for aftermarket devices. Eg: NAV TV Vehicledock, DVD players
Compatible with: Discovery 3 / Range Rover Sport (MOST) system (without TV Tuner)
I also assume some setting will need changing on the car via Faultmate/IDS?
Cheers
26th Jan 2010 10:27 am
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
That one puts an icon on the screen ..thats the touch control
Good kit ..very expensive . Once you have that ..you could get some sort of AV switcher to allow a few more inputs
no faultmate needed with that kitG4 Gone ...but not forgotten
26th Jan 2010 11:01 am
discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
I see... just watched their video and instruction pdfs... not the clearest ones I've ever seen...
Still needs a remote to change channels on an aftermarket TV tuner though it seems...
26th Jan 2010 12:33 pm
discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
Could someone please confirm if this will fit on either inputs (I, E, F) and be used (once other end is cut of) to send a video signal to the Nav screen?
Thanks
18th Feb 2010 5:13 pm
discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
SMB connector: is this it and how to connect?
I have sourced these locally for EUR 3.90 each (not too cheap!):
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
(more pics in my gallery). Can someone please confirm this is the SMB we need for the Nav Screen?
I am also uncertain on how to connect the RG174 cable: there's a pin that looks like it slides in from the back of the main unit, would I need to solder the RG174 core to that? Then the shielding (outer core) would go in the back (rough end) and be held in place with the cylinder which is then crimped???
I was told there's a special tool to do a pentagonal crimp, given I don't have this can I use normal pliers or traditional crimping tool??
Cheers
23rd Feb 2010 10:29 am
hensoni
Member Since: 01 Oct 2007
Location: Sleepy Somerset
Posts: 576
These connectors are designed to be crimped using two reasonably specialist tools but you can make a good job of it with solder. Under no circumstances use a 'conventional' crimper because you will crush the dielectric (the insulation bit between the core and the screen).
In time honoured tradition - read all below before trying! These connectors do not give you a second chance!
Rather than a blunt pair of pliers, use a nice sharp craft knife for your trimming
To assemble correctly, you need to push the tail ferrule over the outer covering, then strip the jacket back 10mm - you should now have 10mm of screen visible (and hopefully, no loose strands...). Gently tease out the cross-braiding so that it looks like a chimney brush (sorry, can't think of a better analogy).
Now trim the loose braid back 5mm (so that it would stop 5mm short of the cut end).
You now need to trim the dielectric to fit in the central contact. When crimping, you only need 3mm but for soldering, you just need to be certain that you don't melt the dielectric and cause a resistance change in the dielectric. The central conductor will be made from very thin cable cores, so real care is required.
When assembling the plug, the central contact should locate in the barrel, the dielectric should slot into the back (thereby preventing a short circuit) and the screen should butt nicely against the shoulder. The ferrule then slides down over the screen and would normally be crimped into position to provide an electrical connection and provide a strain relief.
As long as you are careful, you can solder the screen to the knurled barrel and then slide the ferrule over the top and solder again. Don't get it too hot as you will ruin the dielectric.
Good luck!
23rd Feb 2010 3:28 pm
discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
Many thanks for the instructions hensoni , after reading 5 times I think I understand what to do
Can I just clarify though, in my own Biz talk :
-ferrule = the cylinder that goes over the "spotty" bit of the central barrel (knurled section?)
-dielectric = the central core, shielded by a plastic tubing from the cross-braided screen
-central pin: this has a flattened bit in the end, do I understand correctly this will go in from the cable end of the barrel, flattened end last in?
Thanks again!
23rd Feb 2010 4:22 pm
hensoni
Member Since: 01 Oct 2007
Location: Sleepy Somerset
Posts: 576
No probs:
Ferrule - yes.
Dielectric - no. It is the plastic tubing itself. If the dielectric is cut too short, then there is a real risk that the unprotected central conductor can touch the connector body and short out
Central pin - probably. I suspect the cable goes into the end with the shoulder on it. The shoulder would then butt up inside the connector body.
Buy a spare or two and practise your soldering - soldering the central conductor into the pin is likely to be the most difficult part. You'll probably have to tin (pre-solder) the conductor and then re-heat it when inserted into the central pin. This is where you are most likely to damage the dielectric and/or leave 'whiskers' (lumps of solder) that prevent you from assembling your connector
23rd Feb 2010 6:29 pm
discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
Thanks again
Yep, got 3 of them already just in case
Will give it a go tonight I think, assuming SWMBO has no other thoughts
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control???
I understand what to do 
:
