Member Since: 15 Jan 2014
Location: The Cotswolds
Posts: 1372
Can you not just unlock the car and open the rear passenger door first? I just wondered if it could be the physical disturbance of opening a door that is triggering something, rather than specific to the drivers door. Eg a damaged connection or dodgy height sensor being disturbed by the vibration.2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone
24th Jun 2018 9:58 am
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
KirrieDisco wrote:
It’s always been the drivers door it’s happened on. It sinks that quick that no time to check to see if it happens on other doors.
So, hang on.
The car sits happily at height, locked whatever, but sitting there for about half an hour.
Do you unlock the car when opening the door or can it happen if the car has been left unlocked so you don’t need to use the plip at all?
Then when you open the drivers door, the car then sinks to stops.
Wondering if this has any relevance to whether the CANbus is asleep or not.
Ie if the car is asleep, door opened, CJB notifies the air suspension module via the hard wired door state link, but then ‘something’ caus3s the module to ‘panic’ and go into safe mode and drop to bump stops.
If I get time, after painting my gates under the scrutinising eye of my wife, I’ll have a look at those codes and see if I can find any LR stuff that may be relevant, but the link I sent before is probably the best resource I’ve found.
Not sure if this is a help or a false line of enquiry, but can't the car be programmed to drop to access level on the key unlock / door opening / entry? Your not using a different key to normal which might be programmed with this feature enabled?
It's does sounds more like rear sensor comms issue through either wiring or components though.
Cheers Nick MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
24th Jun 2018 11:19 am
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
It’s just so random though, I can open any door and it’s ok, drivers included, then I open the drivers door and it sinks. I can open and shut the door loads of times through out the day and the all of a sudden it just sinks.
The codes I have so far seem to relate to height sensors and when using the live data it seems to suggest the rear right. I have ordered another one and the wee section of wiring and will replace that as soon as I get them. It’s been a total pain in the ass today. On a 20 mile journey it sunk 8 times and gave me the ping pong and drive at 30mph message. Hopefully it will do it tomorrow morning when I have access to the diagnostic machine so I can see what it says when the vehicle is on the 30mph sunk mode.
I’m not using any different keys, and as far as I know it’s never been programmed to sink when the doors are opened.
Cheers for all the suggestions
Eddie
24th Jun 2018 6:23 pm
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
Parts came today. Will fit tomorrow and update.
25th Jun 2018 6:08 pm
LeighW D3 Decade
Member Since: 31 Jan 2006
Location: Brisbane, AUS
Posts: 916
From my list of codes:
U007388
Control Module Communication Bus 'A' Off
CAN bus connections short circuit to each other
Refer to the Network Communications section of the workshop manual.
HTHLeighW
The old girl is on her third engine...
* first ran a bearing (design failure in original engine)
* second had a failure of the water outlet on top of the engine (pls check yours)
26th Jun 2018 7:31 am
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
I have posted this in a new thread, but does anyone know where I can get either a new wiring loom doom for the suspension and replacement parts for the loom?
26th Jun 2018 7:38 am
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
But. Sounds like you need to be careful which cable you need as That one is for a car without electric rear diff lock.
For those prices could well be worth asking your local LR dealer how much for a new one, and see if you can get the part number. If you did go through them, you would have som comeback if they supplied the wrong one by accident!
Also, advanc3d factors do them, site sponsor, with 5% off for forum members - code is some where if you search, something like ADVLRF I think
26th Jun 2018 10:06 am
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
YIKES!
This is the section I need. It goes to the valve blocks, the compressor and either side to the hieght sensors. As you can see someone has already replaced a section from the drivers side rear sensor into the loom. The block connector was repaired by me last time I was in here.
26th Jun 2018 11:22 am
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
Given the cost of it, can see why someone tried to repair it.
Looks like a mamouth task to replace that thing!
26th Jun 2018 11:36 am
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
Work done today.
Replaced the wiring that someone had done before me that was probably ok, but changed it so I knew it was ok. Replaced the height sensor on the rear right that the diagnostics were telling me was wonky. Wires from sensor go from sensor across the back of the car and join back in to the main loom after the block connector located on top of the chassis leg rear left of the car.
Suspension seems to behave but there is still a fault showing on the dash and on the diagnostic telling me that the voltage from the rear right sensor is low (0.5v).
What I need to know now is where the ride height module is for the back of the car? The voltage going to the height sensor is fine, but the low voltage seems to be getting picked up at the ride height module.
Car sunk in Tesco car park when I opened the rear drivers side door, but it didn’t sink on my five mile journey home which was happening roughly every mile before I replaced the ride height sensor. Any suggestions appreciated as to where to go from here.
26th Jun 2018 6:18 pm
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
So... found a corroded wire which I replaced, and a dodgy soldered joint on a previously repaired section. Not sure what the original fault was, but replaced height sensor and small repair loom kit for the same sensor. Replaced section that had been repaired previously. I managed to get the wires for that the wrong way round which was giving me a low voltage from the new sensor. Figured that out today with the help of a wiring diagram which has taken all faults off the dash and off the diagnostic machine. LR hasn’t sunk since, hopefully that’s it, but as always, I’m not blowing the trumpets yet.
Any questions, please ask as I’ve proably missed stuff out.
27th Jun 2018 6:05 pm
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
So ..... fixed?
29th Jun 2018 9:25 am
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
Appears to be!
Two days running, two nights it’s stayed up, no sinking when doors opened. It all seems good.
Only worry I have atm is when I tried calibration of the new sensor the diagnostic machine wouldn’t go all the way through the process. It allowed me to input the heights when in normal road height, it raised to off-road height, but told me it would come back down but failed to do so. It seems level enough though so just going to stick with it.
Eddie
29th Jun 2018 4:31 pm
Triplet3
Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: Southampton
Posts: 320
Good work 1995 Discovery 1 300TDI
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 - Gone
1979 Series 3 109" - Gone
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