Member Since: 12 Jul 2010
Location: Witzmannsberg
Posts: 8
Just thought you all might like to know that I found my grommet!!
With a fresh cup of extra strong PG and a few thunk moments, I realised I was looking on the wrong side of the brake cylinder - My D4 is an LHD, but the pedals are NOT reversed!
So here is where I did NOT find it...
Nothing on the inside either! Just lots of insulation.
That's the brake lever to the right.
Click image to enlarge
Hang on! What's that? Pass me the torch.
Hidden behind the loom - To put this into perspective, the large black thing on the right is the left-hand wing.
These clear images were only possible with the camera flash! It's pitch black in there normally
Today I ground the end of a piece of steel rod into a dangerous weapon (point) and tried to poke through - Even with the point heated up, I am not sure how far I got into it - The insulation on the inside is just too thick to push through from the weird angle and I don't see an easy way to remove the sound insulation around the pedals...
Monday is the first "real" working day here in southern Germany, so it's off to my dealership for some suggestions... Just hope I didn't poke something useful on the inside!
BTW - Thinking of starting a new thread about my trip/preparations similar to Jetlag's (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic117572.html?highlight=jetlag)
Stay tuned...
Chris
3rd Jan 2016 9:58 pm
cas1876
Member Since: 29 Sep 2012
Location: Sutton
Posts: 55
Hi
The black and red wires used to connect the switches, volt meter, fuses in the rear, what size are they and where did you purchase from please.
You have a very detailed fitting technique which I am going to follow step by step, picture by picture and hope to achive the same result.
Also which Battery do you recommend.
Regards
Stephen
25th Feb 2016 10:15 am
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
I have no idea now what rating those cables were
At the time I took the the volt gauge and sockets to a local auto electrics shop and they gave me the correct cable for it, I just paid by the metre!
The battery I went for was the "Optima Yellow Top Battery YTS 4.2 (8012-254) (BCI D34) YTS4.2 AGM."
I think if you type in Optima D34 your get the correct one!
Hopefully this thread will help you out, I tried to be as methodical as I could so others could use it as a reference!
Maybe one day it'll make the Wiki!!
25th Feb 2016 8:24 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
I have a question iceman. When you press the link button does it link the two batteries immediately?
When I press mine I don't hear the solenoid click or the voltage equalise until the car warms up? Is this right?
I'm thinking I may have a duff solenoid
25th Feb 2016 8:30 pm
markthegad
Member Since: 06 Sep 2009
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 636
Well as you know I copied it step by step and found it so easy, even for me so it gets my vote to be in the Wiki
25th Feb 2016 8:41 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
I wasn't ignoring you Stephen, I was going out to my D3 to try and sort the sat nav out so I thought I'd have a look at the same time! I went one better though and took a video for you!
As you can see they are at different charge levels and the second I press auto link you hear the clonk of the solenoid and the displays read the same. I'd say yours is faulty in that case.
25th Feb 2016 11:09 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
markthegad wrote:
Well as you know I copied it step by step and found it so easy, even for me so it gets my vote to be in the Wiki
Thanks Mark
It all went to plan except for those crafty switches
25th Feb 2016 11:11 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Thanks iceman, I did simplify the wiring a bit by connecting the red and blue wires to the solenoid instead of direct to the battery. I'll try them first.
And the vid answers my question brilliantly
26th Feb 2016 6:38 am
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Swapped the solenoid out and now working as expected
6th Mar 2016 1:48 pm
Andy Foster
Member Since: 27 Dec 2009
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 6551
Good man D4 MY15 SE TECH
D3 gone but never forgotten.
6th Mar 2016 2:07 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Whilst buying the solenoid I also bought a 200amp relay. I'm contemplating trying this in place of the solenoid, what do you think?
6th Mar 2016 5:26 pm
Andy Foster
Member Since: 27 Dec 2009
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 6551
In theory it should be ok, however would you not loose the "link" function possibly. Maybe keep it in the boot as a back up
AndyD4 MY15 SE TECH
D3 gone but never forgotten.
6th Mar 2016 8:12 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
The link function should still work as it's the controller that activates the solenoid. Once it reaches a certain voltage in the cranking battery it sends a 12v 0.4 amp current through to the solenoid. The link button seems to just activate that current.
6th Mar 2016 8:27 pm
Andy Foster
Member Since: 27 Dec 2009
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 6551
I suppose it would be easy to swap and see what happens though
What's this about a light bar you need fitting as well.
AndyD4 MY15 SE TECH
D3 gone but never forgotten.
6th Mar 2016 8:45 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Missed this, sorry.
There's a curved light bar and remote harness been sat in my garage .......along with a load of other stuff that needs fitting
I've just got to get to get some quick release brackets made up behind the grill then hopefully find the time to stick it on. Hopefully have the brackets so I can switch the LED light bar to the Piaa lamps at will
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
load of other stuff that needs fitting 
