This link is to a LLAMS Height controller install pdf but it shows access to the Air Suspension computer. As above, the computer is located on the same side as the steering wheel up high below the windscreen A post - but you can get to it.
Before you start looking there, the problem is probably cable related and between one of three pair of connectors that are electrically located between the air suspension computer and the block valves. The connector pair numbers are C2293/C2294; C2559/C2560 and C2527/C2528. On a LHD LR3, these are hidden behind and above the left hand side front wheel arch so probably the same for your LHD D3.
The relevant Technical Service Bulletin is LTB00038 dated 05 March 2007 and applies to VIN's 5A000256 to 6A413981. Connector C2099 installed on the front control block valve near the right hand wheel arch can be a problem connector or the wiring off it that leads to the other connector pairs mentioned that are located above the left wheel arch.
Other than the connectors themselves, problems can be chafing of the wire looms or heat damage from the turbo cooking the cables. In brief, this seems to mean following the cables from the front block valve to the appropriate connectors C2560 or C2527 in the left wheel arch.
The connector numbers are all on that second page of the air suspension wiring diagram.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
24th May 2012 12:40 am
Black_64
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
Thanks bbyer for your emails and pdf's.
I will have a look at the connectors and wiring.
I also will remove the bumper, because the previous owner did had a small touch with another car (in the winter).
Maybe when then the wire did broke or it was damaged with replacing the front bumper.2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
24th May 2012 10:31 am
Black_64
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
Problem solved !!
Big thanks to bbyer and Disco_Mikey !!
It was a wire on one of the connectors behind the wheel arch. (left side of the car, for LHD driver side)
This wire is the Neg. of the front cross-link valve. (color bu -> black and blue)
So the valve could not be opened. Each time the Disco3 did try to open the valve it gave a fault message.
I did solder a new wire (about 2 inch long) between it and toked the car for a drive on the ramp.
No fault message, even when i see the cross-link valve is set to 100%.
I only see 0% or 100%, so it should be off/on only (12V).
Then i put everything back and take the disco3 to drive in the street. (on the bump where i always have the suspension fault)
No fault anymore.
Here some pictures of the wire.
It looks that the mantle (coat) of the wire has been crushed.
Then the water did the rest. Over time the wire oxidised and brake.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
Last edited by Black_64 on 30th Jul 2017 6:53 am. Edited 1 time in total
I think you now qualify as a master air suspension electrician.
You did well to find the problem as it was not exactly easy to find. It certainly took a lot of effort on your part searching about.
Fortunately for the rest of us, you were able to take some good pictures. I expect your post is going to be referred to by others for a long time hereafter; hence your efforts will help many others. Thanks for letting us know both the problem and the solution.
Well done.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
24th May 2012 3:08 pm
Black_64
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
Thanks for your nice reply.
On this picture you can see the green/blue stuff from the oxidised copper.
Click image to enlarge
I also have made a few foto's of the inner wheel arch.
I thought maybe this could be handy for later.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
Last edited by Black_64 on 30th Jul 2017 6:54 am. Edited 1 time in total
I much appreciate those pictures. I have never seen the backside of the windscreen washer bottle before - well never had the wheel liner totally off so I found the pictures fascinating.
If you have any more like that, you may as well post them as well as I doubt I am not the only one that has not seen where the green coloured air spring air line actually runs. I just kind of figured it was laying around somewhere up there, but I see it is actually clipped in place - better than I anticipated. Also if one of the pictures shows the three pair of electrical connectors and their surroundings, I could get a better idea of where they are hidden.
I noted the problem was with the ground side wire off the solenoid; for some reason, not a surprise as I find most electrical problems for whatever reason are on the ground side rather than with the hot side.
Maybe that is because with hot side wiring, something gets fried, (sparks and the like), so finding the problem is easier. With the ground side, you are just dealing with a "more dead" wire, not so easy to trace.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
Well done for finding that fault it could have taken ages to find, and a good post for others in the future..
Flack
25th May 2012 3:16 am
Black_64
Member Since: 21 Feb 2012
Location: Limburg
Posts: 47
Thanks Flack.
I uploaded the pictures (Hi-res. ) in my Gallery.2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Buckingham Blue -- IIDTool V3.0
25th May 2012 5:57 am
petey233
Member Since: 24 Nov 2012
Location: sudbury
Posts: 1
I had the same problem......great thread....no more suspension fault
24th Nov 2012 4:33 pm
fullerjj05
Member Since: 14 Mar 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 6
Suspension fault
Could this potential be a solution for a suspension fault and loss of height on the front passenger side air shock? (LHD).
15th Mar 2014 12:38 pm
evo8
Member Since: 29 Jan 2008
Location: Zalesie
Posts: 289
Hi-yes-these were the cables/connectors I was referring to in the other thread you posted.2013 D4 TDV6 S; Baltic Blue; IID Tool BT
2007 D3 TDV6 SE, Auto; club Faultmate MSV2
15th Mar 2014 5:17 pm
parrafin23
Member Since: 04 Dec 2011
Location: Buskeud
Posts: 678
The blue connector on the 1.st picture.. is that the 12v supply to the aircompressor?
More material is per the link below.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/index.php?cat=154052005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
18th Apr 2014 3:19 pm
armalites
Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 1918
That's a good result, as already said that could have taken ages to find.
I was playing with the cross over valve via the IID this week. A good way to test/prove the valve is opening.
Pump up one corner only then open the valve on the same end of the car and it should level out the pressure which will be fairly obviousIID PRO
MSV Extreme
Nanocom One
Thanks for sharing. I have the same error message on my, and found the same issue on mine Black and green wire was broken.
I was unfortunately to break the bolt holding the contacts into the chassis. Right now I don’t know how to fix this issue. Anybody?
Click image to enlarge
And does anybody know what this piece of metal is? I can't see why it’s there, and I don't want to remove it since I don't know. But removing it would make the workspace much better
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