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Technical advice please for soon to be new Permagrin owner
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stapldm
 


Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3
Technical advice please for soon to be new Permagrin owner

Hello all,

Firstly just wanted to say thanks to all of you for making this such a great forum; I’ve been lurking for a while to see whether the dream of owning a D3 would be overshadowed by reliability/maintenance issues. Seems to me there are still a few POETS specials out there but I believe that’s true for all makes, so end result is that I’m expecting a new Permagrin around Christmas time Very Happy .

I do have a couple of things I’d like advice on please.

1. What is the best way of ‘running in’ a TDV6?
Should there be extra oil changes, special driving styles etc? My personal experience of petrol engines is that fully synthetic oils make a huge difference to performance and economy. Is this true for diesel engines too?

2. The fuel burning heater (FBH).
Yes I know the FBH issue has been done to death here already, and I think I’ve read all the posts about it. It looks like LandRover are unlikely to do anything until a future facelift, so to extend engine life and keep me and my family toasty in Wintertime I’m thinking along the following lines.

It seems most of the issues surround the fact that the car shuts itself down in many systems, power and communications wise, and interfering with this is unwise.

My proposal is to isolate the FBH from the car when the ignition is turned off and add my own power and control for it.

This would involve adding a second battery, with split charge circuits etc. and a new Webasto timer/remote module and for safety a small fuse box.

All FBH power and control signals can be switched between the existing car circuits and the new circuits by use of relays driven from the auxiliary/accessory power feed provided by the ignition switch (i.e. only ON when ignition is on).

This way when the car is running, the FBH is connected exactly as it was originally to the car. When the ignition switch is off, the control signals and power are provided by the new battery and timer/remote module. The FBH, internal air-con fan etc are driven by a second battery that is in effect isolated from the vehicle and therefore unlikely to set off battery voltage drop alarms or to drain the starting battery. Instant heat (with the ignition off or perhaps via a bypass switch) is therefore possible.

I have thought of some possible issues; I hope you may find me some others before I consider embarking on the project:

a. Is the Webasto FBH identical to the normal ones retro fitted to cars (ie a nice simple interface) or is it a modified version taking control information direct from the CANBUS?

b. When the ignition is off, what default position do the air conditioning dampers end up in – if they default to cold air (i.e. bypass heater matrix) and send all air to the floor then this is doomed to failure.

c. Does anybody know how an FBH reacts to having it’s ‘run’ signal interrupted or pulsed? I’d guess that whilst the starter motor is turning the auxiliary/accessory power line from the ignition would drop and therefore de-energise my relays – is this true?

d. I believe the D3 uses ultrasonic alarms instead of the less false trigger prone radar type. What will the ultrasonics think of turbulent hot air being blown around a cold car?

Many thanks in advance for your advice and your patience in reading this; I know it’s a long post but I wanted to get all my thoughts down in one go.

Dom.
 Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone? 
 
Post #10356921st Nov 2006 4:42 pm
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10forcash
 


Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Welcome to the site!
TDV6's are quite happy to run up to 15k on the original oil with normal use, personally, I changed mine at 7.5k and will be doing so again

The FBH is controlled by the HEVAC system via the CANbus, which is in turn controlled by the IHU & CJB. the FBH actually has a permanent +ve supply to it. You would also need to control the auxilary fuel pump...
There are no 'conventional' trigger inputs to the FBH as it's all done via the CANbus so the rest of the options are a no-go i'm afraid... believe me, i've looked Rolling Eyes I do have a circuit diagram that supposedly makes the system work with the addition of a timer circuit and a few relays, the only sticking point is that a) it requires a PCM relay to control the fan speed and b) some of the pin designations don't match up with the 'as installed' wiring, for that reason, i'm unwilling to try it. The volumetric alarm is disabled during FBH operation in the original (now deleted) software

Probably not what you wanted to hear but the best I can do i'm afraid Sad
  
Post #10358021st Nov 2006 5:04 pm
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stapldm
 


Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

Many thanks 10forcash, it kind of does bury those plans but in fairness that's quite a cash saving for me too!

I'll keep plotting - maybe the controller board on the FBH can be purchased as a spare - and then a normal one can be hooked up in parallell to the CANbus version...OK, no that's just plain dangerous, I'll shut up now Crying or Very sad

I'll probably still install the aux battery at some point to power a 25L fridge I've got. Does anyone have any preference/advice on split charge circuits? I'll assume that the Optima Yellow top is almost mandatory...?
 Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone? 
 
Post #10359021st Nov 2006 5:24 pm
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10forcash
 


Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Optima yellow or red fits nicely, just depends if you need a high load, deep discharge or a high capacity deep discharge capability - forget all the fancy electronic 'optimisers', a 250A contactor with some 35mm2 tri-rated cable works a treat - just remember the TDV6 alternator is rated at 150A and fuse the outputs accordingly Wink It's also wort remembering that the charge voltage can reach 15.6V at low temperatures
BTW, the 07MY model now has a low maintenance battery, not the previous 'sealed for life' one - still Lead-Calcium technology though
  
Post #10365621st Nov 2006 9:03 pm
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