Member Since: 15 Jun 2013
Location: Chile
Posts: 66
unfortunately I have't found any specialist in my Country.(CL, South America)
Mostly the used to say, change your gearbox or the car
No real solution found yet.
24th Oct 2015 12:55 pm
raptor_uk
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: durham
Posts: 26
argh :(
OK, my saga continues, mailed this thread to my indie along with a descriptive history of events over the last 1 year, he called and said he'd do the double flush and said this would cure mine, vehicle was returned to my place of work, I put some fuel in returned to the office and left the vehicle for 2 hours, I then left work and traveled 22 mile, the transmission went into failure mode 4 times, 4, 7, 13 and 18 miles, I took the vehicle back to the indie, he drove but the fault never happened at all, took the vehicle out tonight with the horsebox on, this is what happens, whilst in command shift, travelling at 50 mph, up a slight hill, revs begin to die, transmission changes to 6th gear(whilst in command shift), could not downshift, after 2 minutes was able to downshift, control came back.. so where do I go from here, with the double flush and other jobs it's just cost £900 and the vehicle is actually worse....
26th Feb 2016 6:17 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
Member Since: 24 Apr 2016
Location: Horsham
Posts: 3
I wish I'd read this before flushing!
I have a 2006 RRS with 150k Miles on the clock. I was having the gearbox clunking & juddering - so flushed the oil and added Dr Tranny Juddering & Clunking fixed - but repeated Transmission faults! Just had it flushed & fully serviced by a grown-up - but Transmission failures continue unabated.
All when the oil is hot and climbing hills. If I drive it very gently - it's mostly OK though.
The fault recorded is always "Incorrect Gear Ratio"
Having read this - two things struck me.
1. Would thicker oil help? Maybe not EP90 thick, but I wonder if there is an oil with similar properties except the same viscosity when hot as the proper stuff cold?
2. Even though it's detecting a fault - the transmission ratio being a bit off, the box is clearly still working. Since you can cycle the ignition to clear and even clear the fault with the ID Tool without stopping (probably not a good plan - but it works), what are the chances of papering over this in software?
If the tolerance for gear ratio were widened a bit - the fault would occur less often.
I don't know enough about Hacking to do this - but someone probably does!
I wondered if another possible would be a box, like the ID tool which just clears all the faults at the press of a button? Fix the button to the dash and push when the dreaded F appears!
Si
24th Apr 2016 10:19 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Are you trying to destroy every part of the gearbox? Presumably you don't own this vehicle?
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 24 Apr 2016
Location: Horsham
Posts: 3
I do own the vehicle.
The 'options' were posed as questions as the box is well on it's way to destroying itself anyway. Obviously I don't want to kill it - I want to see if there is a way to eek a bit more useful life out of it.
The first option, change the oil type, seems to me fairly plausible. After all, it is to some extent what things like 'Dr Tranny' are doing. Assuming it has roughly the same properties apart from viscosity, the main likely negatives are more heat generation and possibly compromised lubrication.
I wouldn't consider any of this on a newer box - but this has 150,000 miles on it and is on it's way out, so there is little to loose by trying other than having to pay sooner and a ride on a Yellow Taxi.
Si2006 RRS Owner
25th Apr 2016 8:11 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
SimonRafferty wrote:
Obviously I don't want to kill it...is on it's way out, so there is little to loose by trying other than having to pay sooner and a ride on a Yellow Taxi.
I think you completely misunderstand how an automatic gearbox is configured, or indeed how mechanical things can fail.
You may have turned a simple (cheap) issue into a more major (read more expensive) repair before moving on to catastrophic damage which may require a completely new gearbox (very expensive). For heaven's sake, the entire gearbox shares the same circulatory system so that unresolved issues can become contamination around the box.
Ignoring warning symptoms, then warning messages and then deleting your way out of failure modes is simply nuts.
What do you do when taking a child's temperature during a worrying fever - read it as high before throwing the thermometer out of the window to make the problem go away??
I guess we need a lock-out mode to prevent IID fault clearing when on the move too. It's hard to make tools idiot-proof as fools are just so ingenious.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 26 Jun 2013
Location: South Australia
Posts: 238
Double flush is pretty unlikely to cure ratio codes, but it definitely helps with the smoothness of the box and if the box is shuddering under load it can often help or fix that too.
Incorrect ratio means a clutch pack is slipping somewhere. That could be because:
-a hydraulic fault in the valve body
-a cracked jump tube between valve body and transmission
-worn brass bushings leading to pressure loss
-a fault with the clutch pack ie worn out friction discs
Either way, at least the valve body will need to be removed and inspected but more likely you will need a full rebuild.
Forget trying thicker oil etc. This box is VERY fussy with the oil it needs. It's very likely that any other type of oil a) won't fix the issue and b) will cause additional issues.2008 RRS TDV6 - Chawton White/Black/Lined Oak - 20's, h/k, sunroof - 350K KM.
2010 Audi A6 3.0T S-Line - Phamtom Black/exclusive 2-tone valcona 184K
2000 Audi A4 avant 1.8t Q Sport - Phantom Black/black 385K KM
1990 Nissan Pintara TRX - red - lots of mods - 439K KM
26th Apr 2016 12:07 am
Stubear
Member Since: 05 Nov 2016
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 86
D3 2006 auto 153,000 miles
Ok
So I think I have this issue, but I am more confused now after reading this as to what to do. When going up hill about 30mph or 50mph I get a judder. A blip of the throttle seems to stop it. On motorways flat out it's not there at all unless under load or going uphill. Do I flush it or do I just live with it. Am I looking at a new box or a refurb. I've read your woes and it's all too familiar but really can't make a decision on what too do.
StuIf it moves and it shouldn't duct tape it, if it doesn't move and it should walk away and get a big hammer
27th Dec 2016 12:53 am
Skynet
Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: Melksham, Wiltshire
Posts: 868
Double flush at leastDave
D3 2006 HSE, Cairns Blue - gone
D4 2016 SE, White
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Re: D3 2006 auto 153,000 miles
Stubear wrote:
Ok
So I think I have this issue, but I am more confused now after reading this as to what to do. When going up hill about 30mph or 50mph I get a judder. A blip of the throttle seems to stop it. On motorways flat out it's not there at all unless under load or going uphill. Do I flush it or do I just live with it. Am I looking at a new box or a refurb. I've read your woes and it's all too familiar but really can't make a decision on what too do.
Stu
Have a search and read up on DrTranny lube
27th Dec 2016 2:46 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
A flush will not cure the issue. It is preventative maintenance
Additives will mask the issue and buy you some time before it needs repaired
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Are you trying to destroy every part of the gearbox? Presumably you don't own this vehicle?
It's 
