DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
  
|
Had another play and can confirm that the 1533 must be powered by same 12v supply that the actual FBH is on, guess the W-Bus signal generated by 1533 is affected by the voltage supply, any electrical geniuses care to explain why? (Robbie where are you  )
My aux battery is currently standalone by the way, pressume if I connect up via VSR to main bat + and earth it to chassis it would work then?
Anyway I will still be using aux bat to power Maplin RF reciever to control the link of 'flame-now' terminals just wanted to steer clear of draining the main battery more than needed to.
What is the best way to bring a small cable out of main bat compartment without drilling holes 
|
 10th Nov 2014 10:37 am |
|
|
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8075
  
|
I would say if you just earth the fully charged aux battery to the chassis the timer would work off the aux battery, also it is one less jump cable to worry about if you should need to use the aux battery to jump start. I have an aux battery that is connected to the main battery via a starter solenoid which can be operated from a concealed switch in the car, I just charge it up once a month or so.
There is a cable ducting running along the front edge directly above the main battery neg terminal if you want to go the aux battery compartment. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
|
| 11th Nov 2014 12:03 pm |
|
|
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
|
That was my plan for the aux battery just to be there for emergency backup 
So if I earth aux bat to chassis then the aux + could supply the timer? (car electrics are not my forte )
|
| 11th Nov 2014 3:10 pm |
|
|
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8075
|
Yes try it, it will need to be earthed "-" of course, I would use the same fused supply as the remote receiver, if you intend using it for emergency jump starting the earth cable must be the same diameter as the battery cable on the car and the battery needs to be fastened down to prevent movement, hope I'm not teaching grandma how to suck eggs  It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
|
| 11th Nov 2014 4:47 pm |
|
|
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
|
Already strapped down with genuine Lhd battery bracket from my LR dealer all for £3.50
Just unsure of using + of aux battery and chassis earth of both batteries. I'd of thought you'd have to have both + in parallel to get over whatever issue the 1533 has with w-bus voltage being from same supply as FBH controller 
|
| 11th Nov 2014 6:42 pm |
|
|
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
|
Finished (almost) got the aux battery earthed to chassis with 10mm2 cable and low and behold the timer works so both timer and rf receiver running off second battery to minimise drain on main battery 
Just need to tidy up wiring and then I can post some pics but looking fairly neat if I do say myself, had a bracket made to bolt through the hole left in the aux bat box after removing white plastic mount (for components on Lhd I believe)
1533 is mounted on enclosure of maplin rf receiver and all fitted to said bracket in space to right of brake reservoir 
Need to heat shrink a couple of cables in morning then all done
|
| 15th Nov 2014 11:20 pm |
|
|
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
|
Little problem with FBH though It fired and I let it run for 30 minutes to give it a good burn to clear all the smoke but after letting it finish the purge and cool down cycle I tried to run it again and it started but only ran for 2-3 minutest then shut down 
Left it on charge after all the plain and will have another look in the morning 
|
| 15th Nov 2014 11:26 pm |
|
|
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8075
|
good job, you now just need a HDuty solenoid connected up between the main battery and aux battery with the same 10mm cable and operated by a push button switch in the cockpit of the car, any problems starting or if you think the battery may be low on cold winter mornings just press the button the aux battery assists the main one in cranking and away you go without lifting bonnets or looking for jump leads and as sure as eggs are eggs you will need use it, I know I do!
Keep the aux battery charged with a battery charger once every 2/3 months depending on usage and condition. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
|
| 16th Nov 2014 1:19 pm |
|
|
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
|
Finally got a driver sorted for my obd2 cable and eventually got thermo test to run when I connected negative to pin 4 not pin 5.
I read this on another post so if it helps TRY NEGATIVE TO PIN 4 NOT PIN 5
Cleared 3 faults and got it to run up but now I'm getting errors 
What does STFL mean?
|
| 16th Nov 2014 5:29 pm |
|
|
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8075
|
ShorT of FueL? - sorry mate I don't know, coudn't resist it.
Copied fro WiKi.
Code (Hex) Description
0x01 Defective control unit
0x02 No start
0x03 Flame failure
0x04 Supply voltage too high
0x05 Flame was detected prior to combustion
0x06 Heating unit overheated
0x07 Heating unit interlocked
0x08 Metering pump short circuit
0x09 Combustion air fan short circuit
0x0A Glow plug/flame monitor short circuit
0x0B Circulation pump short circuit
0x0C No comunication to air condition
0x0D Green LED short circuit
0x0E Yellow LED short circuit
0x0F No configuraton signal
0x10 Solenoid valve short circuit
0x11 ECU wrong coded
0x12 W-Bus comunication failure
0x13 Vehicle fan relay short circuit
0x14 Temperature sensor short circuit
0x15 Combustion air fan blocked
0x16 Battery main switch short circuit
0x17 Invalid air flow reduction
0x19 Glow plug/electronic ignition short circuit
0x1A Flame sensor short circuit
0x1B Overheat short circuit
0x1D Solenoid valve shed test short circuit
0x1E Fuel sensor short circuit
0x1F Nozzle stock heating short circuit
0x20 Operation indicator short circuit
0x21 Flame indicator short circuit
0x22 Reference resistance wrong
0x23 Crash interlock activated
0x24 Car is almost out of fuel
0x25 Fuel pre heating short circuit
0x26 PCB temperature sensor short circuit
0x27 Ground contact to the ECU broken
0x28 Board net energy manager low power voltage
0x29 Fuel priming still not done
0x2A Error in the radio telegram
0x2B Telestart still not programmed
0x2C The pressure sensor has short circuit
0x32 No start from control idle period
0x33 Flame monitor signal invalid
0x34 Default values entered
0x35 EOL programming has not been carried out
0x36 Thermal fuse short circuit
0x45 Error relay box (short circuit/open circuit of heating relay)
0x50 User interface idle-Mode (no-communication)
0x51 User interface has communication fault
0x52 User interface send no defined operating mode
0x53 Heater fan status message negative
0x54 Heater fan status bus has short circuit to UB
0x55 Temperature water sensor failure
0x56 Temperature water sensor short circuit to UB
0x57 Overheating water temperature sensor
0x58 Overstepping water temperature sensor gradient
0x59 Overheating blow temperature sensor
0x5A Overstepping low temperature sensor gradient
0x5B Overheating printed circuit board temperature sensor
0x5C Overstepping printed circuit board temp sensor gradient
0x5D Cabin temperature sensor failure
0x5E Flame detector gradient failure
0x5F Emergency cooling
0x81 EOL checksum error
0x82 No start during test-run
0x83 Flame failure
0x84 Operating voltage too low
0x85 Flame was detected after combustion
0x87 Heater lock-out permanent
0x88 Fuel pump failure
0x89 Combustion air fan interruption
0x8A Glow plug / flame monitor interruption
0x8B Circulation pump interruption
0x8D Green LED interruption
0x8E Yellow LED interruption
0x90 Solenoid valve interruption
0x91 Control unit locked or coded as neutral
0x92 Command refresh failure
0x94 Temperature sensor interruption
0x95 Combustion air fan tight
0x97 Overheat sensor position wrong
0x98 Fault 152 (Power supply interruption)
0x99 Glow plug / electronic ignition unit interruption
0x9A Flame sensor interruption
0x9B Setpoint transmitter invalid
0x9C Intelligent undervoltage detection
0x9D Solenoid valve shed test interruption
0x9E Fuel sensor interruption
0x9F Nozzle stock heating interruption
0xA0 Operating indicator interruption
0xA1 Flame indicator interruption
0xA5 Fuel pre heating interruption
0xA6 PCB temperature sensor interruption
0xA8 Communication board net energy manager error
0xAA Send on W-Bus not succeed
0xAB Overheat sensor interruption
0xAC The pressure sensor failure
0xB6 Thermal fuse interrupted
0xFF Unknown error code It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
|
| 16th Nov 2014 6:05 pm |
|
|
|
|
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
|
Codes 2, 3 and 7 when I first cleared them so
No start: well I know that it didn't start
Flame failure: ok but why? What can I adjust anything? Did look at co2 calibration which ramps the fan up and down to adjust the mixture, could the fan be blowing flame out?
Heating unit interlocked: assume this just means it's failed therfore it's locked?
What gets me is it WILL run and I have had it complete several cycles running sweet but just not everytime.
what is the protocol the software uses? Will it still run if the water temp is already high (60-70deg) it seems to work first time but then not run again
Slightly frustrating but at least it's an extra rather than essential system, just be nice to have it working 100% after putting all this effort in
All musings welcome as it keeps bumping the post 
|
| 16th Nov 2014 7:31 pm |
|
|
Ray2409
Member Since: 07 Nov 2014
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 21
|
My luck is not as good as DiscoJake's, I have my ODB2 wired up, tried both pin 5 & 4 as advised elsewhere. Ran WTT but have not yet got any messages back. Several times WTT reports 'Port not available' or similar words even though I have used port 1 or 2 and this is confirmed in Device Manager.
WTT help notes that use of USB is unreliable/problematic.
Anybody here PC savvy enough to have any helpful suggestions please?
|
| 16th Nov 2014 10:09 pm |
|
|
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
|
I struggled to get USB drivers on my Xp laptop but windows 7 machine updated ok.
I have read that you should run wtt first then plug in USB after. I also switched ports from 3 to 4 and checked in 'extras' and both times wtt knew which port it was in. Are you sure driver ok for obd2 lead?
Not much help sorry but there are a lot of variables in the Heath Robinson setup of cables etc, I wasn't getting anywhere until I switched the negative to pin 4 then bingo
Ps my loom is the simplified version with only 3 wires; positive 16, negative 4 and pin 7 direct to wbus in back of plug (already in place for timer)
Perseverance
|
| 16th Nov 2014 10:53 pm |
|
|
Ray2409
Member Since: 07 Nov 2014
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 21
|
DiscoJake
Thanks for the encouragement. My laptop is running Windows 7 so seemed to download drivers automatically and confirms they are ok. Have to trust that.
I have tried the sequence of running WTT, connecting and powering up, I will check to see if any different to yours.
Will keep trying pins 4 & 5.
|
| 16th Nov 2014 11:03 pm |
|
|
