Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Bolton
Posts: 7
Heaters blowing cold air out
Hi all new to the site just registered, I have something and nothing problem we'll hear goes, I was taking the family out for something to eat drove around 10miles and the heaters was fine blowing hot air as it should then I pulled over then it started to blow freezing cold out so I checked the water and it was empty filled it up with about 2 and a bit litres of plain water drove it bk and the water is fine so I will check it again tomorrow is this normal for this to happen??
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Surely if he drove it home with engine at operating temp ie stat open there cant be any air in the system?
27th Dec 2014 1:13 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
If there is air in the system it does not matter if the stat is open or closed as the air will remain trapped in the system somewhere - it is a closed pressurised system. Only a manual bleed will remove any air drawn into the system.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
I cant argue with that as Im no D3 expert, but will say all cooling systems on any modern vehicle are closed and pressurised, it goes with the territory.
I never bleed any of the trucks I work on, its just an engine, much like any other vehicle out there.
27th Dec 2014 1:38 pm
Liamyih
Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Bolton
Posts: 7
So would I need to get this drained for the air to be released? It all workes perfect today and the water is all there heaters work as they should but I did put coolent in it would this affect anything?
27th Dec 2014 1:49 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Once the leak is fixed you have to get the coolant to the correct concentration using the specified coolant. To bleed the air out there are 2 bleed points. One on the coolant bottle and a similar screw on a pipe under the engine cover that leads to the cylinder head. The bleeding procedure:
Quote:
19 . Loosen the coolant expansion tank bleed screw.
20 . Loosen the cylinder head bleed hose bleed screw.
21 . Refill the cooling system.
22 . Tighten the bleed screws to 14 Nm (10 lb.ft).
23 . Fill the cooling system, keeping coolant to the upper level mark of the expansion tank, until a steady stream of coolant is seen returning to the tank.
24 . NOTE :
When the coolant bleed is complete and prior to installing the expansion tank cap, top up the expansion tank to 30mm above the maximum level.
Install the coolant expansion tank cap.
25 . WARNING: Release the cooling system pressure by slowly turning the expansion tank cap a quarter of a turn. Cover the expansion tank cap with a thick cloth to prevent the possibility of scalding. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.
Start and run the engine.
Hold the engine speed at 3,000 RPM for one minute.
Return the engine to idle for five minutes.
Hold the engine speed at 3,000 RPM for one minute.
Run the engine until the thermostat opens.
Remove coolant expansion tank cap, allow float to settle and top-up coolant if required. Install cap.
26 . Switch the engine off and allow to cool.
27 . Install the engine cover.
28 . Clean any remaining coolant from the chassis and surrounding area.
29 . Install the radiator access panel.
Tighten the 4 bolts to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).
30 . Check and top-up the coolant if required.
The cylinder head bleed screw:
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Bolton
Posts: 7
Brilliant this must be the best website I have ever joined, got anther little problem my webastro heater dose not come on what would be the problem and do you think it would be expensive to fix thanks
27th Dec 2014 2:32 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
There are many things that can stop the FBH from working so worth doing a search and a read of the threads on the subject.
As for the expense, well with Dan selling brand new ones for £150 (a fraction of the normal price) it should not be silly money to fix.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Bolton
Posts: 7
I have just found both problems out one has been fix which was the leak it was rubbing on the belts which cause a slight split in the pipe this has been fixed, the aux heater found out that the fuel pipe is not connected
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