Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Taunton
Posts: 14
LPFP club
Hi guys,
Well following the good advice on here I've been busy testing a few things to try and work out why the disco 3 is so slow. It's a friends car that I am trying to rectify. Bought only a few weeks ago.
Diag checks show that the fuel pressure is low and its not making any boost on the road.
Voltage at the fuse 1 is healthy 14V but the current flow is 0.17A ! Yes 0.17A so my gut feeling is the LPFP is dead. I confirmed this by removing the relay and the fuse and the car still drives the same!
However, I guess the pump may not be receiving voltage due to a break in a wire etc?
But are there other connectors in the routing to the back of the car that I can get my DMM on to test for voltage and earth?
Is it possible to get at the pump connectors at the top of the pump in the tank before dropping the tank out to check the same?
All help much appreciated, and i've been reading all evening to learn about these cars
John
20th Jul 2015 9:06 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Current does not flow if there is a break in a wire.
Before they go to the top of the tank the wires route via the front right wheel arch, behind the plastic liner.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Taunton
Posts: 14
Robbie,
Many Thanks.
I did try and RTFM and came across this :-
The electric fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank. Fuel is pumped from the tank via the in-tank fuel pump, to the HPP via the fuel filter. For additional information, refer to Fuel Tank and Lines (310-01C Fuel Tank and Lines - 2.7L Diesel).
However, 310-01C does not appear to exist?
I was trying to see if there was a connector in the front RHS wheel arch?
Cheers, John
20th Jul 2015 10:21 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Most MYs have a connector in the wheel arch. There are pictures somewhere on the forum, together with repairs that have been made.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Taunton
Posts: 14
Right, well this weekend we are to tackle the removal of the Fuel Filter (new one ready to go back in) and the Fuel Tank to change the LPFP (yet to be ordered).
Any warning shots about this task would be very welcome right now
From viewing the forum I can see it might be possible to jack the car up on the drivers side only (front and rear, wheels removed) supporting on axle stands. All the work appears possible from the drivers side. Am I correct?
Cheers, John
23rd Jul 2015 10:28 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yes.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Taunton
Posts: 14
So this is where we start from...
Low Fuel Pressure at the fuel rail (at idle) from the diagnostics...it only reached 115000psi flat out
Click image to enlarge
Not enough amps ?
LPFP pressure at idle low ?
Click image to enlarge
Any thoughts before we rip it all apart?
Last edited by jannerboy on 23rd Jul 2015 6:29 pm. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Jul 2015 6:25 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
The top pressure is not LP but fuel rail pressure. The amp draw looks ok and the LP fuel pressure is in the acceptable range.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Taunton
Posts: 14
Hi Robbie,
Damn hoped you wouldn't notice the tools moved around !
Joking aside been wanting to get a clamp meter and when I saw the kit you were using I thought best get one of them!
Good job i did.
As you and Mikey point out the values all look ok!
No error codes from a diagnostic check.
So how do I go about checking the hpfp?
Same situation as Gazza_Magoo topic129790.html?
If I go the route changing the hpfp what else should I renew whilst in there?
Really appreciate the help btw
John
23rd Jul 2015 8:40 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
What diagnostic code reader are you using? Some of the generic readers don't pick up all the engine codes
What are we comparing this "slow" TDV6 to?
What live data do you have available? Looking for airflow, EGR positions (or blanking), boost pressure and boost temperature My D3 Build Thread
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