Member Since: 15 Aug 2015
Location: Tamworth
Posts: 223
OK just been told by my indie that the sump has to come off to do the oil pump and it's 4 extra hours of labour to do the pump whilst doing the belts, does this seem right to you chaps?
24th Nov 2015 12:38 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
OK just been told by my indie that the sump has to come off to do the oil pump.
Being aware of where the oil pump casing fits onto the engine, or what it looks like, should tell you that you don't need to drop the sump.
I presume that your indie is not a Land Rover specialist - but it might be helpful to name names.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
The only thing underneath the car that needs to come off is the sump guard plate and the 4 long bolts that hold the bottom of the Oil pump casing, and the two short bolts that hold the wiring loom to the casing.
They are talking .
Flack
24th Nov 2015 6:58 pm
col07
Member Since: 06 Aug 2015
Location: Newbigging
Posts: 100
Sump definitely does not need to come off. From what I remember the bottom of the pump mates with the sump gasket which might be where the confusion arises. The official Land Rover procedure for pump replacement is to use a new gasket between the pump and block and RTV sealant between pump and sump. If the sump gasket is damaged it may require replacement which would require sump removal, but this is unlikely.
I stand to be corrected - probably by disco_mikey
24th Nov 2015 8:20 pm
Geoff at Drym
Member Since: 18 May 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 584
When I fitted my oil pump, I smeared a little grease on to the sump gasket (the bit that the oil pump sits on). I then pulled the pump up tight with the bolts onto the block, then I eased the bolts off a fraction and then fitted the long bolts up from underneath and pulled them up tight so that the pump was sealed against the bottom gasket. Then retightened the block bolts. It goes without saying that you do need to be careful when sliding the pump into position over the crankshaft. It should go on smoothly without too much force.
Those are my observations, for what they're worth. 2007 Disco3 2.7 tdv6 SE
gvif with reversing camera
V8 brakes with new EPB module and shoes
Later D4 grille
Alive tuning remap
Mazda MX5
Ferguson ted20 tractor
Hyundai Getz 1.4 (wife's )
25th Nov 2015 11:27 am
Geoff at Drym
Member Since: 18 May 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 584
Just to add, I got my FoMoCo oil pump and belts from Disco Mikey at a very sensible price. I would recommend Mike to anyone who needs help and advice for D3's, and of course for parts. 2007 Disco3 2.7 tdv6 SE
gvif with reversing camera
V8 brakes with new EPB module and shoes
Later D4 grille
Alive tuning remap
Mazda MX5
Ferguson ted20 tractor
Hyundai Getz 1.4 (wife's )
25th Nov 2015 11:32 am
Sniffer
Member Since: 15 Aug 2015
Location: Tamworth
Posts: 223
OK update time, think I may of asked them to do the wrong thing but now they are replacing the pump not the housing LOL
She is in at RK Automotive in Tamworth who are a Land Rover specialist
So, cam belt service, new torque converter, new oil pump and now they have just rang and said the rear prop has fallen apart in their hands when they removed it
Grrrr, it's started already
26th Nov 2015 11:23 pm
Geoff at Drym
Member Since: 18 May 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 584
Pump and casing are all one piece. 2007 Disco3 2.7 tdv6 SE
gvif with reversing camera
V8 brakes with new EPB module and shoes
Later D4 grille
Alive tuning remap
Mazda MX5
Ferguson ted20 tractor
Hyundai Getz 1.4 (wife's )
27th Nov 2015 10:52 am
Ev2uk
Member Since: 19 Oct 2015
Location: Southampton
Posts: 143
I'm starting to get in a bit of a tiz about all this.
I've read so much about pumps and chassis numbers that I'm starting to feel dizzy
Just looked at my log book and my chassis number is.. SALL*****7A425497
The car is a 2007 model with 130K miles, should I be worried.. I have messaged Geoff but he cant do it till March time, I don't mind waiting till March if I have to but ideally would like it replaced sooner.
I have an independent garage not to far from me who I'll hopefully be able to get in to see this week sometime.
so is my chassis number in the infected range and how common is the frailer of this part in reality.?
The cam-belt was replaced at the scheduled time by a main dealer (before I owned the car) but no evidence of the pump being replaced.
I have had a good read and a good look using the search function but to be honest I am still at a bit of a loss
I found this on the forum but it mentions that the part for my chassis number range was superceeded
Click image to enlarge
Also is replacing the pump a fairly big job.?
Many Thanks
TonyNew D3 Owner.. every day it starts is a bonus but any bongs or beeps are heart-stopping.
5th Jan 2016 7:40 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
tony
if its not been changed then don't get in a tiz just change it ,
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
5th Jan 2016 10:19 pm
Ev2uk
Member Since: 19 Oct 2015
Location: Southampton
Posts: 143
That's the indi I was referencing to
Itook my P38 there years ago because one of the front airbags had s leak. I recieved a very good service and a bill not as big as I was expecting.New D3 Owner.. every day it starts is a bonus but any bongs or beeps are heart-stopping.
6th Jan 2016 1:47 am
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1419
Peugeot price for the oil pump is £125.68 including VAT although they will allow 10% discount for trade.
I did enquire about the trigger ring at the rear of the crank for the crank sensor, the Peugeot price for this item is £24.04 (Citroen price is also similar), the landrover price is approx. £115
I have seen a Bearmach price for this item of circa £15.00 (any comments on Bearmach quality as i've never used them).
I am assuming the item is the same as surely the timing would be the same.
19th Jan 2016 9:51 pm
Peewak
Member Since: 06 Oct 2015
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 13
Can you give me some advice headlight control switch works the lights but dash board clocks dnt come on any ideas
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