Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Cv boot kit
I literally have tried all afternoon to slide this gkn boot up and into the grooves of the rear inner drive shaft cv joint after servicing the joints. It just will not go on. Any tips from anyone?
11th Dec 2015 10:33 pm
snailcove
Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 460
Is it a new boot / new clip or hard plastic boots
11th Dec 2015 10:44 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Fit boot, THEN fit metal clip
11th Dec 2015 10:54 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
It's a new hard plastic gkn boot and new clip. I've only put the clip on for the picture. Every single time I've got the boot on one side it slides off the other.
12th Dec 2015 8:31 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Have you fixed the other end?
If so slacken it off and fit the fat end first.
Also surface wants to be clean and dry and grease will mean it keeps coming off.
If it keeps coming off I would try one from another maker/supplier as the last thing you want is for it to come adrift in service.
12th Dec 2015 10:09 am
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Other is not fixed and I am trying the fat end first. It's the grease that's making it slip of combined with the wobbly top end. If I was an octopus I could do it. I'm gonna get the tool of last resort , SWMBO to apply another pair of hands and see if that does it
12th Dec 2015 10:47 am
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Nope. 2 of us. Still won't stay on to allow the band to be tightened onto it
12th Dec 2015 1:13 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
SMBO points out that its the balls that are preventing the boot from being pulled onto the outer shaft. So I pull the boot up over the balls so that they balls are now inside the boot. Goes on fine then. But something tells me that aint right as when its all together the balls are inside the boot and not inside the metal casing that has the ball rails in it. Hers a pic of the balls in the boot (minus grease of course) Is this the right way to go? Any further advice?
12th Dec 2015 5:59 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
I havent had a cv joint apart for years now, but there doesnt look to be enough room to me.
Where did you get the gaiter from?
Like I said above I think you need a different gaiter, imagine the fun od doing it in situ
Moted mine the other day, tester says you have a cv gaiter leaking, I replied really I didnt notice that, translation = I was busy supergluing it up only a few hours earlier
Still have ordered a new one to fit, Ive gone for one of the split ones, have used them a few years ago with no issues.
12th Dec 2015 6:36 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Ive got a TDV6 auto with standard rear diff and I've bought TDR500070 Bearmach boot kit.
12th Dec 2015 6:39 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Im thinking now that maybe if i strap it up together like this (with the balls in the boot) and then pull the boot back over the balls. Doesn't feel right though. haven't heard of anyone else having to do it this way. Ive double checked the part number moulded int the boot the new one and they are exactly the same.
12th Dec 2015 6:41 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Well that worked fine. Cv joint now in the coupler and boot attached nicely. Trouble is that I can feel a very slight rotational play in the cv joint. Is this normal. The balls are a lot smaller than the cv joint cage which would account for that. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be slight rotational play in this inner cv joint?
13th Dec 2015 11:36 am
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
What have I learned? The inner cv joint on the rear drive shaft is actually called a plunging cv ball joint. The balls plunge into those ball rails in the coupler unit. Knowing what they are called was the key to researching them. The play is the balls engaging in the coupler rails as the coupler rotates. This engaging action manifests itself as play. If there was no play it bind. When you pull this thing apart to service it and replace the boot it is not obvious (at least it wasn't to me) that the cv joint needs to be rammed right into the coupler before the boot will go on. To get the joint into the coupler requires a decent hefty force. I could not get it done in the vice by hammering it together. The technique is to hold the coupler about 20 cm some padded floor and let its own weight do the work by letting it slip through your hand. Perfect job. This may have been obvious to a some but it wasn't to me.
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