simon
Joined: 11 Jan 2005
Location: You'll never know
Posts: 13668
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43K miles (69K Km) and still same set. Due for 45K service soon so will be interesting to see how worn they are then.
-s
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 Tue May 30 2006 9:54am |
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Slimer
Site Moderator
Joined: 06 Jan 2005
Location: Nanny State
Posts: 11629
 
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Lightfoot! How did you manage that?
Replaced mine at 15k    
Nuke 'em! Nuke 'em all!
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| Tue May 30 2006 10:04am |
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simon
Joined: 11 Jan 2005
Location: You'll never know
Posts: 13668
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Motorway miles and using the engine and gearbox correctly mate 
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| Tue May 30 2006 10:08am |
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d3matt
Joined: 03 Aug 2005
Location: South Oxfordshire
Posts: 1456
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There is an argument that says it is better to wear your brake pads out than use engine braking and gears. Many years ago I did a skid course and they told us to use the brakes only when slowing down and just hold the clutch down from a high speed without any lower gear changes or engine braking. Their view was that it is cheaper to change brake pads than change clutches and that braking alone gave you more control. Matt
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| Tue May 30 2006 10:29am |
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simon
Joined: 11 Jan 2005
Location: You'll never know
Posts: 13668
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That depends a lot on what you are doing... when approaching a junction, changing down a gear or two in anticipation and then using the brakes to come to a stop is far more controllable and less liable to skidding if the roads are wet.
Same applies when reaching a corner. Forward planning and all that.
An auto will naturally use more brakes as this is generally the only way to slow down unless you use Command Shift.
Seems driver training varies a lot.
Many many of my miles are motorway which will prolong their life of course.
I am told by LR that my wear is 'normal'
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| Tue May 30 2006 12:27pm |
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photothames
Joined: 28 Jul 2005
Location: Surrey
Posts: 77
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Had all four sets on mine replaced last week at 28,000 (front ones had brought the warning light on, back ones had a little more ware in them) which I thought was not bad mileage for a auto + I have done a few thousand miles of towing a caravan with them as well. Andy - 2006 HSE TDV6
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| Wed May 31 2006 12:23pm |
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DaveT
Joined: 01 Aug 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 929
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Just changed my fronts at 41k miles. Discs looking like they'll want changing as well next time.
Just to add to the tips; re the wear sensor cable: the sensor will wear as it contacts the disc, thus needing replacing unless you change the pads pdq.
It is a complete pain to connect up in the wheel arch. Best advice is study the new one to work out how the old one comes out!
As I pulled mine off the disc pad I broke the (ceramic?) bit adjacent to the disc, (was replacing it anyway, so a little heavy handed) so if you are planning not to change it - pull very gently, and don't lever the angled bit.
Also, prepare to be annoyed! when the pad warnings start, the chime will sound about every 10 seconds!!
Anyone know how long the rears last relative to the fronts? D3 number 3: 08 TDV6 SE Stormygrey /owlpacker
SIII Lightweight - neglected & rusting. Bulkhead now disintegrated - but its got a full service history!
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| Sun Sep 10 2006 11:31pm |
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studiscoS
Joined: 17 Oct 2006
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 13
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What are the torque wrench settings for the bolts?
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| Tue Oct 17 2006 7:33pm |
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Winger
Site Moderator
Joined: 15 Feb 2005
Location: Somerset & Collum
Posts: 1884
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35 Nm (26 lb.ft) for the bolts; tighten the bleed screw to 14 Nm (10 lb.ft)
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| Tue Oct 17 2006 7:35pm |
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AndrewS
Tarquin of the Desert
Joined: 06 May 2005
Location: Earth
Posts: 5735
 
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Changing mine tomorrow too For use of a 4x4 site and driver training pm me 
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| Tue Oct 17 2006 11:15pm |
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AndrewS
Tarquin of the Desert
Joined: 06 May 2005
Location: Earth
Posts: 5735
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Done and its easy. BTW the rear pads are directional. There is a chamfer one end of the friction material. The chamfer goes towards the bottom. For use of a 4x4 site and driver training pm me
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| Wed Oct 18 2006 1:49pm |
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studiscoS
Joined: 17 Oct 2006
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 13
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Winger wrote:35 Nm (26 lb.ft) for the bolts; tighten the bleed screw to 14 Nm (10 lb.ft)
Thanks for the info.
The dealer quote £200 for changing front and back pads.
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| Thu Oct 19 2006 7:28pm |
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lr1
Joined: 09 Nov 2005
Location: Ballymena, Northern Ireland
Posts: 135
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Just changed front and rear pads, (27,000 miles) the job was very straightforward 15mins a wheel from wheel off to back on. BTW you need 13 and 17mm spanners for the front. I used a small G Clamp to push in the pistons and a small piece of wood cut to size to hold one of the two pistons in place, as one come out as you compress the other in.
The wiring for the 2 brake wear sensors is crazy with the wire disappearing behind the plastic wheel arch liner at the front and I have no idea where to at the rear!
Since my sensors were not worn through but the plastic was cracked, I just cable tied them back on themselves. I visually check my brake linings often anyway. To answer a previous question, on mine the rears and fronts wore at the same rate.
I do have replacement sensor cables and am going to cut them, and put a suitable connector closer to the brake to make changing easier, something LR should have done (eg. like Porsche).
Update of Gareth's instructions
Tools required;
Good jack and stands, wheel brace, 13mm spanner, 15mm spanner 17mm spanner, Pliers, brake cleaner, brake grease, piston retraction tool.
1. Securely jack the car onto axle stands and remove front wheels
2. On the left hand side, use pliers to pull the pad wear sensor off the pad
3. Remove the 13 mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper frame (use the 15mm spanner, rear, 17mm spanner front, to hold the sliding joints whilst you undo the caliper bolts)
4. Discard the caliper bolts (new ones are in the kit)
5. Lift off the caliper and support, take care not to strain the brake pipe and wires.
6. Remove and discard the old pads. (Front and rear pads are different, Front has 2 piston system, rear has 1)
7. Remove and discard the pad support springs (new ones in kit)
8. Use piston compression tool to fully retract pistons into caliper - take care and push the pistons slowly and squarely. (use a small piece of wood cut to size to hold one of the two pistons in place, as one come out as you compress the other in).
9. Clean the caliper with brake cleaner.
10 Fit the new support springs to the caliper frame
11 Smear a little brake grease onto the back of each pad, and a little onto the sliding surface that fits into the support spring
12 Fit the pads into the support springs (rear pads are directional chamfer goes towards the ground, ie the leading edge of disk travel for forward motion)
13 Replace brake wear sensor, refit origonal or tie back if you feel you do not need it if its still intact.
14 Replace the caliper onto the frame and use the new bolts to secure.
15 Refit road wheel
16 Pump brake pedal to prime the system.
17 Check level in brake fluid reservoir
18 Carefully road test
The pads are made by Ferodo and can probably be sourced from a brake specialist cheaper than LR, I will check this out the next time.
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| Mon Feb 26 2007 4:59pm |
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10forcash
Site Sponsor
Joined: 09 Jun 2005
Location: In the naughty corner.... eligible for parole 2025
Posts: 13628
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One thing i've never gone for the cheap option on is brake components...
it's probably possible to get the pads a bit cheaper but I doubt you'd get the replacement caliper bolts. Saving the labour cost is one thing, but cutting corners on the braking components of a nearly 3 tonne is something else   for Freelander 2 Diesel, Discovery 3 / RR Sport TDV6 & RR Sport TDV8, Defender (TD5 & Puma) - available Now!
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| Mon Feb 26 2007 5:31pm |
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