Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 4
Amateur Radio Install
Hi Guys,
I'm looking to install my FT8900 in my Disco 4. From reading through previous posts, I think I've got the main body (LHS boot cubby bin) and antenna/coax locations (out via the rear light cluster), including the power source (12V socket in boot) all sorted.
However, I've been scratching my head over the head unit and the associated cable routing for a couple of weeks. My truck is less than a year old and I don't want to start hacking up the dash to run the cables and fit the head unit if I can avoid it.
Anyone got any wisdom to share on good locations for the head unit and how to get the cables to it?
Many thanks!
Cheers,
Grant
22nd Jan 2017 11:14 pm
Grantola
Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 4
Also: can anyone tell me whether Uncle Ray still doing antenna mounts for the roof rails?
Thanks!
/G
22nd Jan 2017 11:16 pm
JackNorris
Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Beds/Bucks Border
Posts: 1877
I can't help on much but I'm sure you can pm ray and he will guide you. You'll need three posts first co comment here again before attempting.
Welcome along too MY2023 Discovery 5 R-Dynamic 3.0
MY2020 Discovery 5 Landmark 3.0 - SOLD
MY2005 Discovery 3 V8 4.4 HSE - SOLD
MY2019 Discovery 5 SE 3.0 - LR Replaced !
MY2005 Discovery 3 S 2.7 - SOLD
MY2016 Discovery 4 Graphite - SOLD
MY2015 Discovery 4 SE Tech - SOLD
22nd Jan 2017 11:26 pm
Grantola
Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 4
Thanks Jack! Appreciate it!
/G
22nd Jan 2017 11:29 pm
James W
Member Since: 27 Mar 2008
Location: Wirral, UK
Posts: 3056
JamesD4 XS, gone, much loved, never forgotten
2018 FFRR SDV8 Autobiography - WTF does this button do
23rd Jan 2017 6:08 am
Grantola
Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 4
Thanks James! That's very helpful, appreciate it!
/G
23rd Jan 2017 9:11 am
Reginald Molehusband
Member Since: 17 Nov 2009
Location: West Calder
Posts: 632
Welcome to the forum Mr Grantola! Just beware, there is so much good stuff in here you might get adicted.
If you fancy meeting a few other D4 fanciers you could come to the S.C.A.M. curry in Glasgow on 8 Feb. http://www.disco4.com/forum/topic71758-2265.html Great curry but I can't vouch for the company ... 2016 D4 Landmark SDV6 (Euro6), Zanzibar (late run D4)
2009 D4 HSE TDV6, Bali blue (first run D4)
2007 RRS TDV8 HSE, some blue
.
On top of the rear view mirror is the best. Cable is thin and will tuck behind headlining, pillar trim, etc.A vaccine does not stop you catching a virus, or passing it on, or getting ill from it, really ill. It does reduce the likelyhood of you dying when really, really ill. Stay Alive - KEEP AWAY FROM PEOPLE.
23rd Jan 2017 2:25 pm
Rufflyer
Member Since: 21 May 2014
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 25
Long write up, but I think it covers most things.
I just finished an install in my wife's 2010 LR4 (stupid LRNA marketing)
Posted over on another forum, but here is the basics... Hope it helps with "Simple Install"
The radio I have in the LR3 is an Icom IC-7000 HF/VHF/UHF All mode transceiver, and the one in her LR4 That I would occasionally drive, is a Kenwood TM V71 VHF/UHF FM transceiver.
Since it had been more than 2 years since the last install, I seem to have forgotten a lot about what I had done before.
This is my journey. Your adventure could be different depending on where you mount your ham radio equipment and what type of antenna you choose or even how adventurous you are in tearing into your Land Rover. One big difference this time is I remembered to take a few pictures along the way and this time I will also describe it by the numbers.
1. GET PERMISSION from the wife.
2. Park in an area where you can get all four doors and the hatch/ tail gate open.
3. Open all four doors and the rear tail gate (top and bottom).
4. Remove the trim covers at the rear of the right seat bolts pulling on the friction fasteners.
5. Remove right rear seat bolts using a T25 Torx wrench. This may require moving the seat, that is why you do it before you disconnect the battery.
6. Remove cover in front of right front seat by pulling on friction fasteners.
7. Remove the front right seat bolts using a T25 Torx wrench.
8. Remove brake reservoir cover.
9. Remove Battery cover.
10. Remove battery terminal connectors using a 10mm socket
11. Remove dash cover below steering wheel by pulling on top of panel.
12. Remove cover above the pedals using a No. 2 Phillip screwdriver.
13. Remove rubber grommet in firewall just below large wire bundle.
14. Remove cover under the glove box using a No. 2 Phillip screwdriver.
15. Remove the right side kick plate by pulling on the friction fasteners.
16. Remove the small plastic cover on the A Pillar labeled “AIR BAG”
17. Remove the A pillar trim using a T15 Torx wrench.
18. Remove trim piece from front legs of right front seat by pulling on friction fasteners.
19.
20. Remove plug to the right front seat using a 7mm socket.
21. Remove right front seat allowing for at least one strained muscle (this is age dependent; I think).
22. Remove trim on right B pillar by pulling on friction fasteners.
23. Remove the black threshold moulding by pulling on the friction fasteners.
24. Remove plastic wire channel cover by pulling on 2 round plug fasteners (one in the front door and one in rear door).
25. Remove the middle row right seat seatbelt using a T25 Torx wrench.
26. Remove small plastic cap on trim above seatbelt attachment point using a small flat blade.
27. Remove panel attaching screw using a No.2 Phillips screwdriver.
28. Remove right rear D Pillar cover (seat belt can stay attached as this will stay out of the way.
29. Remove the right side tie down rings using a 7mm Hex wrench.
30. Remove the tail gate filler flap using 10mm socket wrench.
31. Remove the tail gate cable from the tail gate using a small flat blade to raise the fastener over the round hub. and allow it to SLOWLY retract back through the hole, making sure it does not fully retract into the case (use a hose clamp tool to prevent this).
32. Pull on the right rear trim panel by pulling on the friction fasteners.
Now you have the car ready to start the radio install!
I chose the Lab Electronics in Australia aerial mount and placed it on the drivers’ side of the hood to keep the coax run short and this would also avoid running it across the engine compartment. It would be mounted to one of the hood hinge bolts. I then placed a 1 ½ inch wide 1 ½ inch long braided strap from the hood to the body near the plastic cowling using ¼ inch long # 8 self-tapping screws with a star lock washer for RF bonding.
I rearranged the digital and satellite radio boxes to make room for the Kenwood TM V71 VHF/UHF FM transceiver in the equipment rack behind the right rear trim panel. I used a 6-inch-long 1 1/3 braided strap to make an RF ground from the radio chassis to the car body.
I did not want the control head in the sun all day, so I mounted it up near the rear view mirror with a paddle mount that extended up behind the ceiling panel. The factory control head cable ran along the top of the windshield and then down the A pillar. If you look from the outside of the windshield, you can see a space that opens up the foot well. I fed the factory control cable down the hole and connected it to the cat 5 cable that then ran back to the radio.
I estimated that the power leads would be about 24 feet long. The radio specifications said 13.8 volts +/- 15 %. Based upon this I would need 13 gage wire to avoid the voltage drop and keep it within specs for 24 feet of wire. I used 23 feet of 12 gage power cord. I started under the steering wheel and pushed the power cord into the engine bay. I fed in enough line that it would reach the battery box and a few inches past. At this point I could make up the connections for the battery. I used a fuse holder on both positive and negative leads that was about 3-4 inches from the battery or ground point. I used a 13 mm socket to remove the ground cable that is attached to the body chassis behind the fuse box that is next to where the battery was. (this is why I removed the battery). This car has a Battery Monitoring System and I could not connect the ground lead directly to the battery as the monitoring system judges current drain and helps determine how much to charge the battery, If it does not know the radio is discharging the battery, it will not plan to have additional charging when the engine starts. I then used a 10 mm wrench to remove the main power cable from the battery terminal and attach the connector under the existing power lead.
Back under the steering wheel, I fed the power cord under the top of the carpet past the accelerator pedal, past the air conditioner drain and into the passenger side floor area. I then pushed it under the top of the carpeted area, down near the floor in the kick panel area. From there it was a straight shot along the threshold next to the other wires in the wire bundle. There are three obstacles on the passenger side wire bundle channel. One is a wire intersection in the front just behind the audio amplifier, the second is a metal brace to support he right passenger seat at the B pillar and the third is a wire bundle that would be just in front of the middle row seat in the rear door opening. Place the power cord near the rear wheel arch and leave enough wire to complete the connection later on.
Repeat the process for the radio antenna coax making sure you have enough coax to reach the location on the hood you want. I used an aerial bracket from as I located the antenna on the left side of the hood (or bonnet for our cousins across the pond). A compromise location, but one I can live with. If you are locating the antenna on the rear, disregard this and run it along the wire bundle that head back the right tail light.
This radio has a Cat 5 cable for the control head and the microphone. I ran the cat 5 cable for the control head from the radio to the right kick panel along the wire bundle previously described. I ran the microphone from the drivers’ foot well just like the other two wires up near the top of the carpet, making sure there was enough at each end to accommodate servicing if required.
Radio install is complete. Now we just need to put the car back together.
Reassemble in reverse order and all is well making sure that connecting the battery is connected AFTER the seat wiring is connected (SRS airbags are in the seat and we want make that connection without power from the battery)
Pictures of the finished installation.
My D3 daily driver for comparision.
2nd Mar 2017 1:40 am
Phil G4HUF
Member Since: 03 Jul 2017
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 9
Interesting. Thanks for putting up your installation ideas on the forum. I have a FT8900 to fit in my D4 and this thread will help me plan my installation.Phil
I've got a Tait TM810 and an Icom 7100 to fit to mine. Not sure how to get both in yet.1972 Range Rover Classic 2 door V8
2013 Land Rover Discovery 4 HSE - SCRAPPED
2016 Land Rover Discovery 4 Landmark
2022 Volvo XC40 T5 PHEV 282HP FWD 3 cylinder!
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum