Member Since: 30 Nov 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 14
Am I missing a part?
I would like to retro fit paddles to a 2011 D4 XS. I realise I need to flash the gearbox ecu to make it work.
I have the steering wheel with the correct year switches for my car, I have a loom which connects to the paddles. I have a none heated clock spring.
Do I have to have heated clock spring even though I'm not after heating the steering wheel?
Where does the other end of the loom connect to?
Thanks in advance.
4th Jul 2017 6:12 pm
Robjohplo
Member Since: 27 May 2017
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 11
No, you'd only need the heated clock spring if you wanted the heated wheel to work.. at the moment you've got nowhere for the two wires (that supply the heated wheel) to plug into.
If you get a heated clock spring you'd need to plug in the 2 wires that will be tucked inside a piece of grey foam under the steering column shroud,into the new clock spring. Then plug the wires from the heated wheel into the socket on the new clock spring..
It all makes sense when you've got it in front of you as you can't plug them in wrongly
27th Jul 2017 7:44 pm
factoryfil
Member Since: 24 Feb 2017
Location: Norwich
Posts: 34
Hi
Do you know if the heated steering wheel will need enabling in the CCF ecu?
I recently fitted the steering wheel with the correct clock spring, but no joy, then reading this with the tucked away 2 wire plug ....now fitted that to the clock spring, still no joy, checked fuse 20 and that's ok.
Thanks for any info
Phil.
22nd Sep 2017 10:33 am
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Doesn't need enabling in CCF but you need to provide power to the clock spring usually from the front cig lighter.
That's for a D3, presume it's the same on D4.Mods:
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22nd Sep 2017 1:16 pm
factoryfil
Member Since: 24 Feb 2017
Location: Norwich
Posts: 34
Ok thanks for the info ....
It is 2010 D4,
As highlighted by robjohplo in the previous post, I assumed the small 2 pin plug wrapped and taped in foam and tucked away in the column cowling could be the power? as that wasn't connected to my old clock spring...thoughts?
22nd Sep 2017 1:45 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8084
The two pin plug wrapped in foam supplies the power to the clock Spring, you the have to plug the heated wheel plug into the the clock Spring inside the wheel (that is under the air bag). To test for power if you do not have a multi-meter simply use a 12v side lamp bulb.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
22nd Sep 2017 2:03 pm
factoryfil
Member Since: 24 Feb 2017
Location: Norwich
Posts: 34
Ok thanks
I did see and connect the plug from the s/wheel loom on the very top of the clock spring, also the others next to the switch etc.
The switch doesn't illuminate when operated, so I guess it's a power source thing.
So, should the mentioned 2 pin plug be 12v and earth?
Cheers Phil
22nd Sep 2017 2:24 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8084
Yes, test it as it comes into and out of the clock Spring with engine switched on, if no power at the plug going in to the clock Spring check the fuses, if good and nothing coming out of the clock Spring the clock Spring is faulty.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
22nd Sep 2017 6:06 pm
factoryfil
Member Since: 24 Feb 2017
Location: Norwich
Posts: 34
Ok thanks for the info,
I did check both sides of the clock spring...they were good,
I'm thinking the switch might be faulty, didn't feel quite right,
I bought it off ebay months ago, lots of screwdriver marks all over the switches and trims etc. from a previous life, but only got around to fitting it yesterday.
I stripped the heating switch and there might be a small copper contact missing, not 100% sure without looking at another, or maybe there's a date incompatibility like the cruise switches?, the s/wheel is from a 2013.... and my D4 is 2010.
22nd Sep 2017 6:44 pm
gvw
Member Since: 16 Jan 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 872
Member Since: 24 Feb 2017
Location: Norwich
Posts: 34
gvw....hats off to you for perseverance,
Thanks for the link
I've read it twice, but, in short.... I've got a 2013 wheel and I guess a '13 ecu in the wheel and '13 switch sets, with raised white horn symbol,
If I can find '10 to '12 switch sets, can I use the '13 wheel ecu? and will it need enabling?
I was thinking as I drove home last night there was something not quite right....you mentioned the illumination scenario, my wheel switches weren't illuminated.... very frustrating as the new switch sets are the piano black version
22nd Sep 2017 8:50 pm
factoryfil
Member Since: 24 Feb 2017
Location: Norwich
Posts: 34
Have to say though, I fitted the later column switches at the same time...
They are very nice, much nicer operation and they look the tits.
22nd Sep 2017 8:55 pm
gvw
Member Since: 16 Jan 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 872
For a MY10 you definitely need the old type ECU - the top one in the picture
It does not need enabling.
I found the tricky bit to be the switches - to be confident of it working 1st time you want them like the horn symbol on switch on the right
Although some have got the others working.
If you prefer the look of the newer switches you can always swap the switch fronts to the style/colour you like
Good luck
22nd Sep 2017 9:04 pm
factoryfil
Member Since: 24 Feb 2017
Location: Norwich
Posts: 34
Ok thanks ...sorry if this is going on a bit...
If I find an early ecu... will I have some unused plugs? or is it a different wheel loom?
Looks like the early version has less connections.
22nd Sep 2017 9:18 pm
gvw
Member Since: 16 Jan 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 872
Yes the looms are different - there are more wires in use on the newer ones for the comms.
If I remember correctly you can use the loom from the standard non heated wheel.
Have you checked and definitely got the new type ECU - if yes then that's the 1st thing to change as the switches might be ok?
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....now fitted that to the clock spring, still no joy, checked fuse 20 and that's ok.
