I admit defeat, so help!!
Whist sorting out the shuddering from either a seized caliper or parking brake problem I noticed the back plates were very corroded well to be honest incredibly corroded, in-fact you can see more of the disc than it hides!
The near side is worst, but both are bad.
I found no problems with the near side parking brake as the shoes look reasonable new.
For safety I replaced the caliper.
So onto the O/S and here was my problem, the caliper was OK as on the N/S but I put a new one on anyway.
One of the parking brake shoes was worn nearly down to the metal and the arm the cable connects to was seized in the shoe. Also they smelt burnt, problem found! Why weren't these ones replaced at the same time as the N/S I wonder?
Anyway new shoes were put on but I had a hell of a job getting the disc back on. I had no problem putting the disc back on the N/S and was very straightforward and no problems, so I think the back plate is the cause.
And yes I did wind the adjuster right back but they just wouldn't stay centred whilst I put the disc on!
I think the back plate is the cause.
So I thought I would replace the back plates on both sides as both needed doing.
I made a start and the first thing, and I remember it was difficult on my previous D3, was undoing the parking brake cable, well both of them on this D3 are seized solid and I can't see a way of undoing them without total destruction!
The plastic on the hex part is already cracked and the ferrule at the end of the cable where it enters the plastic nut bit is also very corroded.
So does anybody have a well trodden successful path for undoing them?
At the moment they are being bathed at regular intervals with penetration fluid to see if that has any effect in the morning.
Water pump pliers have been mentioned but I've tried those as well as my trusty curved grip Mole grips, trouble is as you grip with either water pump pliers or Mole grips you are squeezing the plastic onto the thread which is bound to be rusty and it just won't undo even a tiny bit.
So how involved is it to put new cables into the EPB module which I believe is sealed?
Is a breaker complete EPB with cables a viable/sensible option?
New they are £600 + so I'd rather not go down that route!
If your putting new back plates on can’t you butcher the old one in order to free it’s grip on the back plateRange Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8 what a car
Discovery 3 HSE 2006 gone but never forgotten
Member of the 234,567 mile club😎
Advance Factors do the 2 cables (about £200 for the pair) - LR018469 and LR018470, I have no idea how hard it is to fit them at the module endPete
1965 S2a with Galv Marslands Chassis - Sold (BIG mistake)
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Get a set of knippex pliers and use them to twist the cable out, you could also use a junior hacksaw to cut down a slot in the housing to get some penetrating fluid in there.
Thank you Flack, 200TDI and Furnitureman for your suggestions.
As usual I thought this would be an easy job. mark bolts, upright arms off, press out hub, remove rusty back plate, replace with new, press new bearings in and put everything back together again, no problem!
To be stopped at the first thing to be undone is a bit of a pi**er!
I've had a look at the workshop manual, and replacing cables is 'straightforward'!
That is if I can undo the plastic caps on the module unit where the cables go in!
The nearside cable is threaded into the shaft and the O/S is clipped onto the holder inside the module.
Not too involved, unless someone can tell me differently.
I've seen Disco_Mikey's posts on unjamming and the top comes off reasonably easily, so I can check the cable ends there.
My thoughts are to buy the cables, the module seems to work OK with no noises and heaven only knows how many ON/OFF cycles it has done but LR state you can replace cables if the unit has done fewer than 50,000 cycles. Well the car has done 191,000 miles so by my reckoning it would have had the parking brake applied close on every 4 miles to achieve that figure! So cable replacement is ON!
I'll then take the car over to my place in France where I have a 2 post lift and do the work there without breaking my back and my replacement knee won't have to try and bend too far!
Any thoughts?
Ian
4th Feb 2018 9:23 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Channel lock nut buster pliers are very good and unlike std slip joints grip harder the harder you pull.
4th Feb 2018 10:37 am
hotshot
Member Since: 02 Oct 2017
Location: lincoln
Posts: 81
ianrichardson wrote:
LR state you can replace cables if the unit has done fewer than 50,000 cycles.
Any thoughts?
Ian
I took that to be a warranty thing - I.e. the problem probably wasn't caused by normal wear and tear. Who knows though
4th Feb 2018 11:41 am
Landybandy
Member Since: 10 Jul 2013
Location: Neath
Posts: 178
Flack wrote:
Get a set of knippex pliers and use them to twist the cable out, you could also use a junior hacksaw to cut down a slot in the housing to get some penetrating fluid in there.
Flack
A hacksaw blade is exactly what I did a few years back. A diagonal cut down the plastic thread to get penetrating fluid in & it also released the pressure, so it unscrewed easily.(was well & truly rusted & seized inside) It screwed back onto the newly fitted backing plate thread easily.(don’t forget to put copper grease on new backing plate thread) I then bridged the gap with black tiger seal. Yes a bit of a bodge job but it saved me hundreds of £s & 3 years later still going well.
Thank you folks for those very useful tips, much appreciated.
I have decided to put off the inevitable cutting of plastic caps etc. until I get to France and put it onto the 2 post lift. That will make it so much easier to to the fettling needed.
I just wish I had a garage big and tall enough here in Cardiff to put a 2 poster in!!
I 'think' some of my parking shoe brake problems was that the EPB module hadn't spooled the cable out far enough because the arm on the shoe was well and truly seized. The module has sorted itself out now and the shoes on the O/S are nice and slack and be adjusted to the 60Nm required and the backed off by the required amount.
The drum doesn't get hot at all so no binding.
It should get me to Spain and then my place in France, as the only time I really need the parking brake is on the Ferry to Dieppe!
Next problems to be sorted is the Sat Nav and then those pesky glow plugs! I have feeling that will be a 'big' bill!
Two places I've found are happy to do the job, one says they are the 'only' ones who have had 100% success on the TDV6 engine!
Ummm!
Cheers
Ian
4th Feb 2018 4:42 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20733
Hot air gun on the plastic ends to expand and release them from the back plate
Worst case, cables can be replaced with the module in situ. Easy enough, if a little fiddly...My D3 Build Thread
Thank you Mike!
Why didn't I think of the hot air gun, makes perfect sense?! The voice of many years experience!!
As one side has a split in the hex bit I think new cables might be the long life answer though.
I've had a look at your photos and watched the few YouTube videos out there.
It seems that with the car up on a 2 post lift at working height the module is accessible and can be removed to make changing the cables relatively, read slightly, easier, even as you say a bit fiddly!
Fully releasing the N/S cable so it can be undone by twisting the whole cable to undo it as it is threaded into the module.
Main thing is you don't have to take the emergency release cable off, just unclip it enough to let the module be moved to an easier working position.Do you concur with these thoughts?
Ian
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