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Getting to the rear of the D4 12v sockets
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DSL
Keeper of the wheelie bin 


Member Since: 11 May 2006
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Ukraine 

16mm2 should be fine, 110A would be way more than I'd need. Biggest draw I think I'd ever need is my Viair 300 which is 30A. Not looking to jump start the car through it or anything heavy duty like that. Plus for lighting LEDs mean nothing to worry about. Thumbs Up

Next question, where car can I pick up an ignition live point in the engine bay that I can use as the sensor wire (no idea what proper term is) for the solenoid?
   
Post #18446066th Aug 2017 3:27 pm
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tayaste
 


Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633

United Kingdom 2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

Here's a voltage drop calc, might help you confirm on cable diameter. Thumbs Up http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html

Why not get a voltage sensing relay to replace your solenoid Del. No need for a feed wire then
   
Post #18446086th Aug 2017 3:29 pm
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DSL
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Very useful. Many thanks. Bow down Bow down Thumbs Up

Re voltage sensing relay, I assume off the crank battery? I would want to keep the crank battery as full as possible. Especially in the ar$e end of nowhere in Finland. Or after the fridge has been running for 12 hours on an overnight ferry.
   
Post #18446096th Aug 2017 3:34 pm
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tayaste
 


Member Since: 15 May 2013
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United Kingdom 2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

Are you still thinking of fitting a split charge system? That's what the vsr is for. Maybe I have wrong end of the stick in terms of what you want to achieve. Embarassed

VSR goes between cranking battery and aux battery. Separates the two at say 12.8v and below. Reconnects above 13v. Or whatever it's set at.
   
Post #18446146th Aug 2017 3:45 pm
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DSL
Keeper of the wheelie bin 


Member Since: 11 May 2006
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Posts: 72787

Ukraine 

Ah, understand now. Yes, basically simple solenoid to act as a voltage sensing switch to connect the 2 in parallel. Simple but effective. Also means both batteries are connected for starting. So basically VSR would replace the solenoid, but I have that and all the wiring for it. Just got to figure out where to get the sensing feed from. Confused
   
Post #18446166th Aug 2017 3:51 pm
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tayaste
 


Member Since: 15 May 2013
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United Kingdom 2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

Thumbs Up
I Don't know where to get an ign feed then Laughing
   
Post #18446206th Aug 2017 4:03 pm
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DSL
Keeper of the wheelie bin 


Member Since: 11 May 2006
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No worries. Am doing this with MrH helping so we can see where his feed is. Thumbs Up
   
Post #18446246th Aug 2017 4:18 pm
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D&G
 


Member Since: 29 Jun 2017
Location: Charente 16480
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Ukraine 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Barolo BlackDiscovery 3

I tried to keep up, I really did.

But totally lost now Bow down Bow down .
 An honorable defeat is better than a dishonorable victory.” ― Millard Fillmore



2006 Disco 3
Gas Gas 300ec / Gas Gas tx249 / Bandit 1250
XR 650r / Pajero 2.8 Lifted and Safari Snorkel-gone. 
 
Post #18446346th Aug 2017 5:09 pm
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DSL
Keeper of the wheelie bin 


Member Since: 11 May 2006
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Ukraine 

As I keep saying to SWMBO, it's all fairly simple. Luckily she never believes me. Laughing

Putting in a second battery and bits from the now dead Dark Bluie into the D4. That goes in the box for second batteries in the D4, after all the gubbins have been moved. That's powered with a direct feed from crank battery/alternator when running, but that feed isn't there with the ignition is off, the solenoid does that. Basically the solenoid is like a tap, if it sees 12v on the sensing terminal then the tap is open, current can flow, if it doesn't see 12v it's closed and the batteries don't see each other.

That's fairly simple. The clever bit (as per Beanie's suggestion) is powering the output of the relay directly for the aux sockets straight from from the aux battery output, hence the ciggie sockets are live (from the aux battery) with the ignition off. It's just a question of running a thick enough cable to the bit where the relay should have been to make the circuit full time live off the auxiliary battery rather than the crank battery.

The rest I'd just cable thickness, voltage feeds and how-to stuff.

Assuming the above is correct. Laughing Laughing
   
Post #18446406th Aug 2017 5:28 pm
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tayaste
 


Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633

United Kingdom 2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

But if you use a VSR instead of your solenoid you don't a 12v sensing terminal to open and close the tap. Laughing Laughing
   
Post #18446416th Aug 2017 5:32 pm
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DSL
Keeper of the wheelie bin 


Member Since: 11 May 2006
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Posts: 72787

Ukraine 

True. Any link/suggestion? Whistle

Just been looking at http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/voltage-sens...-140a.html

IMPORTANT NOTE: These relays are not suitable for vehicles with 'smart' or 'intelligent' alternators

The alternator on the D4 is often putting out less than 12.8v on long hauls so wouldn't be charging the aux batt. Would result in warm beer!!!! Shocked Shocked
  

Last edited by DSL on 6th Aug 2017 5:43 pm. Edited 1 time in total 
Post #18446446th Aug 2017 5:36 pm
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tayaste
 


Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633

United Kingdom 2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

Here,
http://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/140-amp-1...2809-p.asp

Or cheaper one here.
http://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/altec-140...4660-p.asp
   
Post #18446486th Aug 2017 5:41 pm
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D&G
 


Member Since: 29 Jun 2017
Location: Charente 16480
Posts: 3483

Ukraine 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Barolo BlackDiscovery 3

DSL wrote:
As I keep saying to SWMBO, it's all fairly simple. Luckily she never believes me. Laughing

Putting in a second battery and bits from the now dead Dark Bluie into the D4. That goes in the box for second batteries in the D4, after all the gubbins have been moved. That's powered with a direct feed from crank battery/alternator when running, but that feed isn't there with the ignition is off, the solenoid does that. Basically the solenoid is like a tap, if it sees 12v on the sensing terminal then the tap is open, current can flow, if it doesn't see 12v it's closed and the batteries don't see each other.

That's fairly simple. The clever bit (as per Beanie's suggestion) is powering the output of the relay directly for the aux sockets straight from from the aux battery output, hence the ciggie sockets are live (from the aux battery) with the ignition off. It's just a question of running a thick enough cable to the bit where the relay should have been to make the circuit full time live off the auxiliary battery rather than the crank battery.

The rest I'd just cable thickness, voltage feeds and how-to stuff.

Assuming the above is correct. Laughing Laughing

 An honorable defeat is better than a dishonorable victory.” ― Millard Fillmore



2006 Disco 3
Gas Gas 300ec / Gas Gas tx249 / Bandit 1250
XR 650r / Pajero 2.8 Lifted and Safari Snorkel-gone. 


Last edited by D&G on 6th Aug 2017 6:57 pm. Edited 1 time in total 
Post #18446636th Aug 2017 6:31 pm
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DSL
Keeper of the wheelie bin 


Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72787

Ukraine 

It'll be fine. What's the worst that can happen?

Recent history in NW Norway excepted. Whistle Whistle
   
Post #18446656th Aug 2017 6:34 pm
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Hardware
 


Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: Hiding under the M60
Posts: 12709

United Kingdom 2011 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 XS Auto Sumatra BlackDiscovery 4

Trying to keep up here ... Why would the Altec devices Tayaste suggests not fall foul of the smart alternator caveat that DSL found?
 .


Dean
====================================

2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer Sad ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms 
 
Post #18446676th Aug 2017 6:39 pm
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