Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330
Pete,
On mine at least it doesn't restart once interrupted. The w-bus communication between the oval timer and the FBH is obviously bi-directional; once the heater shuts down the flame symbol on the timer is automatically turned off and the timer cancelled. It's a re-lock and wait 10ish minutes before starting again deal.
Now if your FBH is controlled by the oval timer's OUT instead of w-bus, I'm afraid I simply don't know. If the timer just keeps the output high for the 30 or 40 minutes without any feedback from the FBH, then I guess it's possible that the FBH will restart when the car completes its shut-down x minutes later. This is a question for one of the members who installed the timer and found they needed OUT to control the heater - any volunteers?Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?
27th Nov 2008 1:57 pm
bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
Thanks for your info
27th Nov 2008 2:06 pm
simonsi
Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
Location: Auckland
Posts: 1264
stapldm wrote:
...if you program your fob's third button to open the tailgate, you can open and load the boot space and shut it all up again...
I side effect of this is that you can easily lock the keys in the car, place keys inside boot and shut boot. The remaining doors are still deadlocked and the boot is now secured as well.....Cheers
Simon
27th Nov 2008 3:22 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
My experience of the 3rd button boot opening is it sets the alarm off as the volume of air is moved once you pop the tail gate ..also the tailgate never opens properly any way ...it just unlatches half wayG4 Gone ...but not forgotten
27th Nov 2008 4:14 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
The volumetric sensor is deactivated when the tailgate is opened using the remote, the alarm goes off if the tailgate is not opened fully and movement on the latch position switch is sensed. To overcome this, press & hold the LR button on the remote until the tailgate is opened past the 2nd latch position
27th Nov 2008 4:38 pm
stapldm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330
Just surfaced from another sleep (off sick at the mo ) and this time read all of your question.
bellautos wrote:
...does the heater restart when you drive the car...
And the answer to this bit is, Yes the heater will start with the car as long as it would have started up anyway due to external temperature. If the engine is already warm it seems to just start up at minimum power.
Basically once the car is started the timer is ignored and it's under full control of the Aircon ECU instead so what it says goes.
(I won't muddy the waters by saying that once, just once I pressed the flame button whilst idling (9C ambient) and the FBH ran for a full 8 minutes before it was shut down again by the car.)Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?
27th Nov 2008 4:41 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
TFC ...Ah ...makes sence G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
27th Nov 2008 4:41 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Help please...
I am trying to connect up an LED to indicate when the FBH is working.
I have 4 wires going to/from the Timer.
2 of them are live (12v) all the time (red and yellow) and 1 is live (white) when the timer is activated. But its only reading 6v. Is this correct or do i need to solder another wire to the timer (which i'm not keen on doing ) for a 12v feed. I could just go and buy a 6v LED if this is the correct way of doing it ?
The final wire is the -ve (black). (I think), However, if i connect the LED to the black wire and the other end to the 6v white wire when the timer is deactivated.... the FBH starts
I understood that there should be a 12v live wire when the remote is activated.
ThanksDuncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
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28th Nov 2008 12:46 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
Dunc ,
The wire is deffinatly 12 v as we have just moved ENT's GSM unit away from the second battery .While we were at it we added a couple of LED's as an indicator that the GSM unit is working .Put 1 LED in each headlight .
Have you got the proper 4 pin plug that fits on the timer or is it a home made one ?G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
28th Nov 2008 5:42 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
Dunc,
Click image to enlarge
Top right is the W-BUS wire to the fuel burning heater ...top left is the one that will become 12 v + when the timer ( or flame button ) is activated.
Bottom left is the 12v + input (to power the timer ) ..and bottom right is the 12 v - input (to power the timer )G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
28th Nov 2008 6:10 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
TFC fitted it . If i had done it, it probably wouldnt have worked at all and Ive had set fire to the car!!
. The Red, Black and Yellow wires are soldered to 3 of the 4 pins on the circuit board plug, the 4th wirem, white in my case is soldered to the circuit board on the pad nearest the plug. there is only one wire soldered to a pad.
Ive tested again since posting and even when I have no flame symbol on the timer, i still get 6v on the white wire. Now I'm really confused
if i put an LED across the white and black wires, the FBH fires up. WTF ??Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
28th Nov 2008 6:33 pm
bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
EDIT my instructions read
in flame mode on the OUT you will get 12V and with no flame or heater off there is 0V
I may be wrong but i would connect the LED between the OUT and chassis GND or the GND for the timer, make sure polarity is the correct way roundon the LED when connecting
Im not sure if it helps or not.
Just checked on mine.
Regards Pete
Last edited by bellautos on 28th Nov 2008 6:45 pm. Edited 1 time in total
28th Nov 2008 6:38 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
LED indicators for fuel burning heater
As mentioned before we have put a couple of LED lights as an indicator to tell when the fuel burning heater is operated by phone .
This has nothing to do with the automatic operation of the webasto ...meaning you wont be driving down the road with the led lights on in the morning !!!
So basically there is a 12v supply from the oval timer which becomes live when the timer ( or flame button) is activated...
Connected that up to a couple of leds and when you phone the car the lights come on as long as the timer is active.
Ent decided he wanted 2 different colour LED's ...dont ask ...here they are
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Will get a better picture in the dark so you can see better .
One thing we did find is that the W-BUS signal wire must be 2 way . Normally the webasto will shut down once you open the car door ...it also turns the LED 's off G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
28th Nov 2008 6:41 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
bellautos wrote:
I may be wrong but i would connect the LED between the OUT and chassis GND or the GND for the timer
Thats correct G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
28th Nov 2008 6:46 pm
bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
Nice idea with the leds in the lights when active, i think i may do the same then ill be able to see from my house window if its working on a morning
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..also the tailgate never opens properly any way ...it just unlatches half way
) for a 12v feed. I could just go and buy a 6v LED if this is the correct way of doing it ?
