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DrRobH
Member Since: 10 Oct 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 924
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He'd have done it in less than 3 hours   Visitor from fullfatrr.com
RR Vogue SE 2011 4.4 TDV8
1974 Lightweight
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 1st Oct 2017 8:32 am |
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xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
 
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so, have the rotors off. However, the knurled nut on the parking brake adjusters doesn't turn - not at all easily, however, even with them exposed.
Since I need to adjust them when the new rotors is on, how do I loosen them to make them move properly?
and secondly, in getting the rotor off, a screwdriver slipped and one parking brake shoe has a small (3 mm) dink out of one side and a slightly linked backing plate. I assume this is probably ok, if not ideal - shoes etc otherwise fine.
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| 1st Oct 2017 8:26 pm |
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xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
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anyone?
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| 2nd Oct 2017 12:20 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26701
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A good dose of WD40, on the knurled screw adjuster should free them off. Perhaps dismantle the shoes from the backplate and remove the adjuster and its barrel, and soak it in a pot of penetrating oil. Work it back and forward to ease the seizure.
A small nick in the shoe material won't harm. Perhaps post a picture if your not sure. Post a picture of the adjusters too, so we can see how corroded they are? I don't think new ones are that expensive.
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| 2nd Oct 2017 6:52 pm |
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swansty
Member Since: 21 Sep 2008
Location: Northern Ireland
Posts: 918
 
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xcentric wrote:so it's probably top away from me  made it turn a bit - hard to tell, really. Disk rotor now off, anyway.
next issue is that to undo the calliper, I need a thinner spanner than the Halfords Professional ones I have. Did have a cheapo set, but can I find them when I need them? At this rate I'll be better equipped than KwikFit.....
my Halfords professional ones fitted no bother....at least I think they are the professional ones
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| 3rd Oct 2017 12:56 pm |
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xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
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got the callipers off (adjustable pipe wrench fitted).
Used a can of WD40 and getting another to get the dammed knurled nuts to move.....
there is a spring across the nut which makes it tricker to turn, too, but it's the same both sides so I assume is supposed to be there.
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| 3rd Oct 2017 1:06 pm |
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M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8091
 
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If you have any doubts about the adjusters buy new ones, if the threads strip or partially strip while in use it could cause the parking brake mechanism to jamb of worse. Try to free them off by all means, but
do not get any oil or wd40 on the shoes or pads as they will absorb it and will not function to MOT standards.
Why are you splitting the calipers, it is not necessary to change the pads, you must have the calipers off by now to remove the disks(rotors).
Check the shoes for de-lamination, this is when the friction material comes unstuck from the metal shoe. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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| 3rd Oct 2017 1:21 pm |
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xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
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callipers and calliper brackets off.
Rotors off.
Knurled adjuster not moving, and it needs to to allow me to close up the pads and get the new rotors on, and to be properly adjusted. WD40 working its magic as we speak. Don't think much is on the pads, if any.
Essentially, it's actually been an easy job, apart from this part. Getting the rotor off whilst not being able to loosen the parking brake was a pain. And that's with the parking brake in service mode (iid tool) - not sure why it's not fully off then, tbh, but it wasn't.
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| 3rd Oct 2017 1:42 pm |
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M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8091
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WD40 is not the best penetrating oil, in fact it's not a penetrating oil just convenient and a light lubricant, a good penetrating oil with graphite will work much better, you could very carefully apply heat with a blow lamp which is much quicker, If they are that tight I would be on the phone to AdvancedFactors, you could have a pair of new ones by first post tomorrow?
One reason the old disks are difficult to remove is because there is a part on the inside of the drum that does not wear, it consequently grows with rust, this makes a lip and reduces the inside diameter of the drum to even less than a new one. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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| 3rd Oct 2017 4:13 pm |
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OJ
Member Since: 01 Oct 2017
Location: Loch Leven
Posts: 725
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It’s fairly easy to remove the adjuster barrel without having to dismantle the shoes etc, just move the shoes aside with a big screwdriver against the hub, take the whole adjuster out and then it’s easy to strip and lubricate it, the knurled part and threaded screw is one part which fits into the barrel of the other part, if you have a vice or similar to hold the screwed part head you can run the knurled part up and down the threads to loosen it off, tiny bit of copper slip on the threads will help stop it seizing up in future but don’t get any on the shoes!, min thickness for the friction material is 2 mm, when refitting the adjuster remember to line up the locators on each end of the adjuster barrel to fit correctly onto the ends of the shoes. A very light sanding of the friction material will be ok using a clean dry sandpaper or emery cloth, absolute cleanliness is paramount, clean the shoes, inner drum surface and both sides of the discs with brake cleaner before reassembling.
If you do dismantle the shoes it’s best to get a new spring kit, pins and clips to reassemble.
Read and Follow Bodsy’s brilliant guide exactly to set the EPB shoes up and you won’t have any bother,
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| 5th Oct 2017 10:23 pm |
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xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
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OJ-LR4 many thanks - got them off and one is indeed so jammed it's now soaking in penetrating oil....
can now see how to adjust them, so that will help in reassembly. Trouble is, it's dark now
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| 8th Oct 2017 6:53 pm |
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OJ
Member Since: 01 Oct 2017
Location: Loch Leven
Posts: 725
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That’s good, you can heat it up with a blowtorch or similar or if you get an old pan put some old oil in it enough to cover the adjuster and a give it a really good heat (without going on fire) and leave it until it cools, should help free everything off.
Cheers
OJ
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| 8th Oct 2017 8:34 pm |
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xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
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so, an update, and a question. Fixed the adjusters.
Took off the brake pads, got called away. For a week. Came back to find, on the main brake calliper itself, the piston almost out of the rubber seal, and small amounts of brake fluid dripping onto floor. I assume it's just a case of carefully refitting the piston into the chamber, pushing it back with a calliper wind back tool, and hoping I don't need to bleed the brakes?
is there a recommended method for achieving this?
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| 17th Oct 2017 9:49 am |
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OJ
Member Since: 01 Oct 2017
Location: Loch Leven
Posts: 725
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we’ve all been there at some point, best to clamp the flexi pipe or jam in a wood block so the piston won’t drop out if you have to leave it for any length of time , if it’s not emptied the master cylinder and the piston was not right out it may not have drawn any air into the system, you can always bleed it afterwards just to make sure there’s no air in the system it’s no big deal most likely you only need to do this caliper.
I use a piece of flat metal about 8mm thick with a 10mm hole drilled in the centre, this is fitted loosely over the caliper lugs, through the hole fit a long enough threaded bolt with a nut on the other side, the bolt goes inside the piston recess, then just a matter of screwing it in carefully which gently pushes the piston back into the caliper, make sure the pistons nice and clean, lubricate it with clean brake fluid and nothing else, wind it all back to remove, check the master cylinder is not too full as you’ll push the fluid back in, rebuild it and it should be ok.
Cheers
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| 17th Oct 2017 3:46 pm |
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xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
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I have a calliper retraction tool - now I know what it's for
but in trying to push the cylinder back in, the seal has split.
So I assume a new seal is in order - is it just a case of fitting it and pushing the cylinder back in? I think it split because, try as I might, I couldn't get the piston to line up straight with the inside of the cylinder - should I pour off some of the brake fluid to make a space? but then there'll be air in the system - or do I keep screwing the tool up tight and expect the piston to align itself? Is there anywhere I can release any hydraulic pressure from so it flows back more easily?
thanks
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| 19th Oct 2017 6:08 pm |
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