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Real time help: trying to separate lower ball joint

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mek

Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468

2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 5 Seat Manual Tonga Green

Real time help: trying to separate lower ball joint

Help!

On a ramp at set service garage and cannot remove this. What technique do I need? Was hoping to just hit with hammer at base of thread but no joy. Garage has offered me this splitter but it just slips off? I probably am using this wrong.

Thanks

Andy

11th Dec 2017 11:18 am

mek

Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468

I just tried it was more time really gung ho and angry. And it split!

11th Dec 2017 11:22 am

Erea

Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Munster
Posts: 1509

2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial Manual Zambezi Silver

I haven’t ever done one on a D3 but to loosen track rods on various vehicles I’ve used two large hammers on the casting that is holding the ball joint putting one hammer on one side and hitting the casting as hard as you can on the other side. First hammer is to carry the shock out the far side without damaging anything (Newton balls)

11th Dec 2017 11:28 am

rrhool

Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4400

2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Zermatt Silver

Glad you got it split.

Never hit the end of the thread! If you plan to reuse the ball joint, you won't get the nut back on without a lot of reshaping the thread! Richard

D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.

Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone

11th Dec 2017 12:00 pm

hugeviking

Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482

2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual Cairns Blue

I used the hammer method, but removed the lower strut bolt so it didn't fight the lower arm moving up as the ball joint seperated.

Andi.

11th Dec 2017 1:27 pm

Erea

Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Munster
Posts: 1509

rrhool wrote:
Glad you got it split. Never hit the end of the thread! If you plan to reuse the ball joint, you won't get the nut back on without a lot of reshaping the thread!

If there is no other option but to hit bolt, what we would always do is put the nut back on and have the nut and bolt flush so that when hit it doesn’t damage the treads. If you can’t put the nut on use a block of timber or a bit of flat iron in between and that will stop any damage to the treads.

11th Dec 2017 2:11 pm

mek

Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468

Some wise words here. The thread did distort and the nut being on the end would have prevented this. In my case it was destined to be scrap to no great loss. I did keep the nut on the end when I tapped loose the tie rod ends.

I managed to get both lower arms off and replaced for the Meyle 4 year ones today. Result! That rear bolt of the wishbone on the LHS of the car was a nightmare. It had to be the one with least access that was seized! How on gods earth are you supposed to be able to torque the bolt in this location back up with the idiotic positioning of a lump of exhaust (Cat?) behind the non-eccentric end of the bolt?

Steering is only slightly off thanks to the paint trick - to be addressed this week.

Cheers all

11th Dec 2017 6:48 pm

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