Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Fitting LR adjustable towbar
Ive borowed an adjustable towbar and decided to fit it this morning (in the rain). It all looked real easy. Plug the towbar thingy into the back of the D3, remove two bolts from the chassis refit with the towbar support arm in place.... Easy.......
NO
I cant get the bolts out. I can get the nut off, but the bolts just turn and wont come out. Looking up into the chassis it looks like there is a "sleeve" inside the chassis which the bolt passes through, unfortuntaly the sleeve just spins with the bolt when the bolt is turned. I reakon its corroded together due to all the wading etc.
Can anyone advise on how to get it out (easily), I could remove the entire rear bumper and then give it a wack with a hammer, but its poring with rain and I already have cold and lost my voice .....
Cheers
DuncanDuncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
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Last edited by DiscoDunc on 5th Jan 2008 7:34 pm. Edited 1 time in total
5th Jan 2008 3:54 pm
sideview
Member Since: 02 Dec 2006
Location: in the valley
Posts: 1663
Maybe try soaking them with some penentrating oil?I'm not so good at giving advice...may I offer you a sarcastic comment instead?
If you can spray WD40 into it and have a go tomorrow put the nut back on so far and try to hit it just to see if it moves.Home of RLD Hidden winch mounts Spare wheel Locks Trailer Body Fabrication [email protected] D3/4 sump plates MY 14 sump plates and the Discovery Sport wheel protectors Discovery 5 wheel locks
more Helsport tents and other things for camping Law of Mechanical Repair:
"After your hands are coated with grease, your nose will begin to itch and you'll have to pee!"
5th Jan 2008 4:10 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Quote:
Maybe try soaking them with some penentrating oil?
its been soaking since this morning, but its the inside of the sleeve inside the chassis so im guessing non of the oil is getting through.
Ive now taken the rear bumper off and im whacking the out of it with a copper drift and mallet. Still no movement.
It may be time to give up and get a fixed price for the Dealer to fit
I'll carry on until dark, or my flood light bulb blows, see ya later Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
Just a though can you get any heat on it with out any damage it will expand the sleeve and may releaseHome of RLD Hidden winch mounts Spare wheel Locks Trailer Body Fabrication [email protected] D3/4 sump plates MY 14 sump plates and the Discovery Sport wheel protectors Discovery 5 wheel locks
more Helsport tents and other things for camping Law of Mechanical Repair:
"After your hands are coated with grease, your nose will begin to itch and you'll have to pee!"
5th Jan 2008 5:28 pm
DiscoStu
Member Since: 09 Apr 2006
Location: London
Posts: 11412
zebadee wrote:
Guy wrote:
I ran out of daylight (and I could hear the kettle beckoning) before I could finish fitting the mechanical parts of the adjustable height towbar but one thing was puzzling me - do the bolts that hold the ends of the tie-bars to the chassis go all the way through that chassis member, or do they have threaded inserts? (The 18mm spanner I had to hand wasn't man enough to loosen them and my manly 18mm socket seemed to have gone walkies, so I decided to leave it for another day).
Right So…….
There is a threaded insert in the chassis rail, although it’s a slightly unusual, if not quirky set-up ! The insert actually passes through the chassis rail & is secured on the other side by a nut.
The LR instructions show that you take out the 18mm bolts, offer up the tie rods of the drawbar & thread back in the bolts to secure. However in my experience when you take out the bolts, the threaded insert, which is in tension in the rail, will spring off centre with the hole in the chassis rail, thereby making it virtually impossible, actually no, totally impossible to line up & rethread the bolts you took out !!
So what to do is…… slacken off the nut securing the insert a little, which will allow the insert to jiggle around in the chassis rail making it very easy to line up the bolt securing the tie rod. When you try to slacken off this nut, you may find that the insert is spinning in the chassis rail, but you’ll see that there is shaft protruding though the nut, which will fit either a 10 or 13mm spanner, can’t quite remember. So just hold the shaft as you slacken off the nut & hey presto !!
What I’d recommend is that you leave all the various nuts & bolts loose, until you have everything lined up & threaded in. Then snug up everything hand tight, check that you’re happy with the alignment & that you have the nuts & bolts where they should be. Then come along with the various sockets & spanners & “bury†everything !!
I hope this is of help & that I haven’t only succeeded in bamboozling you further ! Unfortunately I’m not always the best at putting into words a procedure that I can visualize in my head. Guess I’ll never make a teacher then……
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Thanks DiscoStu... It sounds the sort of thing but a few bits dont stack up.
Is it one bolt that goes all the way through or is it actually two bolts that join in the sleeve.
Ive got the nuts off on the outside of the chassis, but when I turn the bolt head on the other side of the chassis the whole thing turns but doesnt come out. Looking up through a little hole in the bottom of the chassis I can see the sleeve, and it turns with the bolt.
Quote:
The insert actually passes through the chassis rail & is secured on the other side by a nut.
its this nut bit I dont understand. the bolt that goes through has a nut shaped end to it at the threaded end. I need to get the entire bolt out and refit to fit the towbar support arms.
Understand the bit about the sleeve under tension and will need to pass a smaller bolt through as I knock out the main bolt (if it ever comes out !!)
Ive given up for the day now, Ill ponder some more when my beer goggles are working Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
Last edited by DiscoDunc on 5th Jan 2008 7:39 pm. Edited 1 time in total
5th Jan 2008 7:18 pm
DiscoStu
Member Since: 09 Apr 2006
Location: London
Posts: 11412
Can't remember exactly, it was a while ago now. Think it's 2 bolts in a threaded sleeve, which is why your bolt is just turning. I read the post first, and do remember thinking that I'd have been there all day if I hadn't.....
You just need to hold the sleeve - there was a flat somewhere allowing a spanner to hold it. Another great set of LR instructions! Disco 5 HSE Lux
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peyiqaJrmMU
5th Jan 2008 7:29 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
That would make sense it being two bolts. The LR instructions (sorry, pictures ) are
I dont know how I can hold the sleeve though as its inside the chassis and I cant get a spanner through the drain hole
I'll try again tomorrow..
cheers Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
5th Jan 2008 7:37 pm
Pelyma
Member Since: 06 Jan 2005
Location: Patching, Sussex
Posts: 15496
I fitted mine, so it is probably far easier than it appears DS3 TDV6 HSE - Silver with Alpaca (old one) Gone
DS3 TDV6 HSE- Silver with Alpaca (new one) Gone
D4 HSE Lux - Montalcino Red Gone
Porsche Cayenne V8 Diesel S
5th Jan 2008 8:39 pm
DiscoStu
Member Since: 09 Apr 2006
Location: London
Posts: 11412
DiscoDunc wrote:
I dont know how I can hold the sleeve though as its inside the chassis and I cant get a spanner through the drain hole
zebadee wrote:
you’ll see that there is shaft protruding though the nut, which will fit either a 10 or 13mm spanner, can’t quite remember. So just hold the shaft as you slacken off the nut & hey presto !!
Found out the hard way when fitting mine, - leave the nut tight. only undo the bolt which as mentioned above
screws into a threaded sleeve.
When you refit, then if you undo the nut it helps line the bolt holes up. it also help to lower the spare so you can line the bolt up.
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
5th Jan 2008 10:08 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
I think I'm getting it now
Keep the NUT on the outer side on the Chassis tight. Remove the BOLT on the Inner side of the chassis by holding the NUTTYPE THING on the outer side of the Chassis which runs through the middle of the NUT and undoing the BOLT HEAD on the Inner side of the Chassis.
Offer up the Tow Bar support and re-tighten the BOLTHEAD through the Towbar support to the Chassis Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
on mine bolts came out fine (not tight in the first place) I had difficulty lining the bolt back up with the female threaded stud inside the chassis rail, slacken the nut off and hey presto, easier to line up.
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
5th Jan 2008 11:16 pm
DaveT
Member Since: 01 Aug 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2572
Mine was easy on the nearside - the bolt went straight back in, but the offside was an absolute swine.
Ended up with suspension high, spare wheel removed, then a couple of spanners to adjust the nut + centre 'bolt' on the outside of chassis, whilst doing up the inside bolt with a wheelbrace + socket to keep driving the bolt till it bit.
I remember wishing I'd bought the usual removable towbar Long succession of Disco's since 2001...
SIII Lightweight - neglected & rusting. Bulkhead, A panels, vent panel & outriggers now disintegrated - Next years project!
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