Member Since: 14 Feb 2024
Location: Indiana
Posts: 7
Central Locking - NOT the green wire splice!
Afternoon all,
I re-soldered the dreaded white and green wire in the passenger sill and my remotes started working. The car worked great for a few weeks.
Then I pulled the CJB and fixed the bad sunroof drain on the passenger side. After reconnecting the CJB my central locking appears to not be working. When I press the lock button on the dash OR either of my remote keys, only the drivers door locks. If I'm sitting in the car I can only see the black actuator move on the drivers side. I've tried pressing it twice, etc and nothing changes.
Then when I open the car by pulling one of the passenger handles, the alarm goes off.
To my knowledge it was fine before I pulled and reconnected the CJB. I have no codes on whatsoever and the car runs great. GAP tool shows no new faults nor anything related to the problem.
Any ideas what could be causing it? I tried clearing the faults anyway and nothing changed.
14th Feb 2024 5:52 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367
Probably one of the cjb connectors not fully in, poor connection or bent pins etc.
14th Feb 2024 6:58 pm
holygoat
Member Since: 14 Feb 2024
Location: Indiana
Posts: 7
I thought so too but when I did get a CJB connection not properly in, the car went absolutely nuts with every fault and wouldn't even start. This is nothing like that so I find it difficult to believe, but it could be.
14th Feb 2024 7:00 pm
Sidestick
Member Since: 22 Apr 2012
Location: Rome
Posts: 2288
It is possible that disconnecting the CJB it reversed into the "tranpsortation mode"...
from workshop manual:
Transportation Mode
When the vehicle is in the transportation mode, SPE* is enabled and global unlocking with the remote handset is disabled. The speed locking function is also disabled, but crash unlocking is retained.
*: SPE
When SPE is enabled, an unlock command from the remote handset only unlocks the driver door. To unlock the remaining doors a second unlock command from the remote handset or the CLS unlock switch is required.
For each remote handset, SPE can be toggled on and off by pressing and holding the lock and unlock buttons on the remote handset at the same time, for 3 seconds, with the vehicle either locked or unlocked and the key removed from the ignition switch. Confirmation of the change to the SPE setting is provided by the vehicle locking and then unlocking in the selected mode.- Easy-Lift suspension module 4.0
- GoodWinch 9500 lb
- Full underbody protections
- Tree/Rock sidebars
- Prospeed roofrack & ladder
- Compressor guard
- Raised Air Intake
- Driving lights (2+4)
- 50 mm Waffle boards
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- Overland Rooftop Tent
- Rear seats entertainment
- Front & Rear camera
- GVIF
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- iidTool BT
14th Feb 2024 8:20 pm
holygoat
Member Since: 14 Feb 2024
Location: Indiana
Posts: 7
Wow, thank you! Will check when I'm home.
14th Feb 2024 8:22 pm
holygoat
Member Since: 14 Feb 2024
Location: Indiana
Posts: 7
So - I got home and tried to manually actuate the locks using the levers by the door handle. When this didn't work I pulled the door card off and had a look at the door catch - the return arm stopper had broken off so like everybody else I just bent the metal arm down to act as the stop.
When I did this I could manually lock the doors using the lever, but the lock / unlock buttons on the dash or the key fob did nothing to the door.
Is it common for the actual actuator motor to go bad? Seems unlikely that 3/4 would fail?
Thanks all
15th Feb 2024 2:09 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367
The drivers door is wired differently to the other doors to allow just that door to be unlocked.
To me one of the wire that controls the other 3 passenger doors isn't connected to the CJB
15th Feb 2024 5:20 pm
holygoat
Member Since: 14 Feb 2024
Location: Indiana
Posts: 7
Possibly, but it seems strange that the physical latches inside (circled) would not lock the door either. Surely this is irrelevant of whether the central locking is working? I will check the central locking fuse on the fusebox, anywhere else I should look?
Click image to enlarge
15th Feb 2024 5:46 pm
zig
Member Since: 09 Sep 2005
Location: Scotland
Posts: 619
holygoat wrote:
Is it common for the actual actuator motor to go bad? Seems unlikely that 3/4 would fail?
In my experience the actuator motors do fail, I had 2 replaced about a year ago, about a month between them.
It should be noted that the first one that failed may have failed months or even years before it was noticed that it had failed. It was noticed because I had unlocked the vehicle using the remote, but was interrupted and hence delayed before I opened the driver's door and when I did so the alarm went off.
The above may have been the situation in your case and if it is it is then a case of replacing the door lock actuator (or taking apart the door lock actuator and replacing the motor which would probably have a FoMoCo part number on it). As I would have had to do this outside in Winter, I just got my local Land Rover specialist (who had the experience of replacing the actuators on numerous occasions other vehicles) to replace it for me.
As I understand it with time and being operated multiple times the carbon brushes on the motors start to wear out and the motors hence become weak and eventually fail. One problem some people have had with replacing the motor is that the motor rotates in the wrong direction, so it ends up locking the door when the other doors are being unlocked and vice versa, so they have ended up fitting the brush assembly of the new motor to the old motor and then refitting the old motor with the new brush assembly (may also be possible to swap over the wiring going to the motor to get round this problem).
As a final comment I would recommend that people check from time to time that they are unable to open any of the doors when the vehicle is meant to be locked.
16th Feb 2024 1:07 am
holygoat
Member Since: 14 Feb 2024
Location: Indiana
Posts: 7
So, I've been working on this.
Firstly, thanks for your help Zig. I had a failed actuator arm that I replaced, and a sheath for the manual unlock cable. I can now manually lock all my doors from the inside.
I fixed the physical latches and door locks. Verified the motors work. I just don't get a signal from the car to tell the motors to close. I think my relay on the cjb may be failing.
Is this a physical relay I can replace, or one soldered onto the board?
Thank you
13th Mar 2024 1:03 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367
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