Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
Jacking again....
I have had a search and had a read and am still confused. People talk of leaving doors open, Access Mode, Extended Mode and all in between...
When I jack the D3, particularly the rear, the car seems to push the wheel further and further down so the chassis has to be jacked very high to get the tyre free of the floor.
Whats the process??
Some people say to jack under the suspension arm, others not. I am not keen on it, but if you do, where do you place the jack?
Sorry if this is a stupid set of questions. I have changed engines and rebuilt cars so cant figure why I struggle with a jack!
30th Nov 2019 11:28 am
jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 767
suspension arms are not meant to be used as jacking points so i would never do that.
So if your trying to get the wheel off the ground and are going to use the chassis as your jacking point then make life easier by raising the suspension with the button to the max before starting.
The door should be left open so the disco dose not try to level the car while your jacking it up or working on it.
Use a good jack and stands and all the other health and safety malarkey
30th Nov 2019 1:18 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8109
When changing wheels etc I always jack under the suspension arm and never had any problems, far, far easier than under the chassis and unlikely to cause any suspension woes, although it does depend on why you are jacking It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
30th Nov 2019 5:02 pm
reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
It was to change brake pads today.
I have a four post lift with wheels free beams and was struggling to get the D3 suspended well on them as the lower suspension arms (front and back) drop so low that they touch the beams and it just doesnt sit right. Its partly because the chassis is a wiggly thing on the D3 - the two long chassis members on my other landys are straight front to back! The Wheels Free is fine for the solid axled straight chassis'd 110 and D2.
As a result I was contemplating doing it on the ground using a jack and axle stands.
But, I spent an hour experimenting and if I block from the wheels free beams under the chassis where the rear driveshafts pass through the chassis and use a steel beam across the wheels free beams where the front chassis jacking points are, it balances quite well (have to remove the gearbox undersheild but thats only six bolts.
It worked well. Had all brake pads changed in about 90 mins once I had figured out how best to use the ramp!
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