Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
No boost!
Hi all
I’m stuck with what looks like a common problem. No turbo.
When I bought the car a few weeks ago it was great. Then it intermittently became sluggish over a week. Now it doesn’t boost at all. And says engine system fault.
I sprayed the maf and map sensors with contact spray from a car garage. And cleaned the residue off the map sensor. It seemed to sound like it was sucking in air very well. Could hear it whooshing as it kicked in around 2000rpm.
But now nothing again. And the Engine system fault appears every time.
I’ve checked the rubbery pipe too as per posts on here. There are slight cracks around the fixture point but it seems to be fine with no holes.
Egr was blanked
Mechanic said the right one was reading badly so he disconnected the plug and put it on a spare on. Zip ties under the engine cover as an easy fix.
The air filter And box seems ok.
Is this something I can solve without going the mechanic for another rediculous bill?
22nd Sep 2020 6:37 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13679
Hi
Assume the butterfly valve was also removed at the same time the egrs were blanked
Plus if u can hear air being sucked in it might be the hose that goes onto the turbo
I had the P132 error and would go into limp mode, if u held it around 2,000 revs u could hear air being sucked in , checked the small jubilee clip down by the turbo and could see some oil spray , clip was broke
Replaced clip and also double checked the turbo actuator arm wasn’t stuck, that was jammed as well, freed it off and got no more fault codes or limp mode
Also I never disconnected electrical connectors on my EGRs
Hope that helps
Pic of the clip I found broke
22nd Sep 2020 6:56 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13679
Also a video ref turbo actuator
22nd Sep 2020 6:59 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Hi I like to think I could do that.. is it possible to access and inspect without first taking off the wheel and wish bone?
Thinking maybe I could spray wd40 and make one of those trods XL
And it’s a UK car so is it still under the left side?
22nd Sep 2020 9:39 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13679
Hi
Glad the information helped u
Access is a lot easier with just the wheel removed , don’t have to remove the wishbone , found GT85 better to spray the turbo actuator with
Also another point if I may add, the turbo actuator should motor back and forth when u turn the engine off, it’s there to help prevent it from jamming up
if u get someone to turn the engine off while ur at the passenger side, u should hear the actuator arm move
Reason I say that is I’ve also got a 2005 and needed to have that software program added as for some reason the program that moved the turbo actuator wasn’t within my CCF software , done it using my own gap iid , cost me £25.00 to allow me then to program it myself ,actuator would then motor as programmed on turning the engine off
See what u find if u can hear it , yes is on the passenger side
Hope that’s helpful
22nd Sep 2020 9:54 pm
Disco308
Member Since: 11 Oct 2019
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 14
I had the same issue with mine,
I removed the passenger wheel and used a bit of metal wire bent with a hook on the end and pulled the turbo actuator forward and back and sprayed liberally with wd40.
You can also get someone to turn the key on and you’ll see/ hear if the actuator Moves or not repeat with wd40 it similar until it moves freely!
22nd Sep 2020 10:17 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
So... if I can’t hear that buzzing sound with the ignition switch, that means it’s stuck?
23rd Sep 2020 11:02 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13679
Hiya
With all due respect , I’m More than happy to help all I can , just suppose it’s nice to have a plse or thks within the replies
23rd Sep 2020 1:58 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Ahhhhh sorry! Thank you
It’s been a crazy 2 weeks with problem after problem getting the lr3. Ive become very focused on fixing them 😅
23rd Sep 2020 2:01 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13679
Bless u for that and no worries , is appreciated , Thk u
So onto the actuator , indeed it might be stuck but should be able to hear it trying
If u remove ur wheel, personally I prior , put suspension into off road height , pull fuse F26 from engine bay , This disables the suspension , then remove wheel, then axle stands , remove the small aluminium cover, think it’s either 8 or 10mm nuts , then whilst ur at the passenger side get someone to turn the ign on and off and u should see/ hear that move
isnt easy to see but with a decent torch u should just see the head moving
with a can of wd40 , found GT85 better and the made up coat hanger etc , move the actuator back and forth , along with spraying , like what’s described in the video
If it’s doesn’t move at all when u turn the ign on and off the software might not be there , therefore u might need to add it via diagnostics
So plse try and see what u find first , inc to check the hoses around the turbo area , if u see traces of oil it can Indicate a split / loose or broken clip , we can then go from there of ur findings
Hope that at least gets u started
Don’t worry , can be very frustrating at times but endless amounts of help here
23rd Sep 2020 2:20 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13679
Pic of the actuator rod
23rd Sep 2020 2:36 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Legend thanks again I’ll give it a go.
I’m £4400 in to a 2005 lr3 and it still has problems. I just hope it will be worth it when it drives as it should. And doesn’t sting me if I can do it myself
23rd Sep 2020 4:35 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13679
No probs and happy to help
Must admit when I bought mine as a project I wondered if it was all worth it and can honestly say it’s the nicest motor I’ve had so far, of course can get to the stage cost wise but alas these can turn into money pits if not careful
Saved a fortune doing the work myself along with I feel are some of the must haves , diagnostics and a multimeter
The gap iid is the best one to get , sometimes come up here around £320 , new are around £420 , or a basic one is an Autel AP200 , roughly around £50.00 , basic, but can at least give u fault / clearing codes Etc
Well worth the money seeing some dealers charge around £170 plus vat per hour
Forum is full of extremely knowledgeable members along with a library of information
Plse let us how things go , if u get stuck there’s plenty of us to always help
Ps, useless bit of info LR3 is what there called in the usa , D3 uk and europe
23rd Sep 2020 5:09 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
It’s got more names than any car I’ve heard haha
That’s not a bad price I was expecting more for a proper diagnostic tool.
Unfortunately the unexpected bill after I got it has wiped me out completely financially for a while. Hopefully the turbo arm will be as straight forward as I think!
This forum is on a sticker on the car funnily enough. Glad I checked it out. 👍
23rd Sep 2020 5:14 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13679
Hiya
Think it’s also been called other things
Can be awkward trying to get onto the actuator arm but ur see once u have gained access , plus not having that limp mode being activated
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