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JL92
Member Since: 15 Sep 2021
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 25
  
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Hi All
My Disco has failed its Mot on rusted sills. From what I can gather from my local mechanic this is a problem with the discovery 3 and similar age rang rovers. Sills are covered in plastic and it traps moister and hides the rust.
Unfortunately or fortunately my used to have side steps and the sections of the plastic was cut away and exposes the rust now.
I see that you can buy new after market sills. Has anyone tried these? And is it expensive to do? I don’t have a work shop and it isn’t something I can do.
Any info would be appreciated.
Other than that nothing else flagged up on the MOT. (This time!)  1971 Series 2a sold (regrettably)
1991 discovery (stolen, burnt, recovered, sold,)
2004 discovery td5 sold
2008 D3
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 23rd Aug 2023 10:18 am |
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kajtzu
Member Since: 11 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6575
 
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I talked with one of the indys here and their lead guy said that while there are sills available from Britpart and others, they manufacture and shape their own. The rear wheel arch has to be done by hand anyway and so do the inner metal sheets. So they’ve found it easier to do them all.
Obviously you will need to weld or take it to a place that’ll weld them for you.
I was quoted an estimate of roughly 1200 eur/side for replacing, painting, etc. all in.
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| 23rd Aug 2023 10:45 am |
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JL92
Member Since: 15 Sep 2021
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 25
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Thanks for the quick response
I’ve been in touch now with someone who will have a look at welding/repairing the sills. Hopefully will check it out today. He’s recommended by my garage, They’ve used them and said to contact them directly.
My D3 has a torque converter problem as well which I’ve been hiding with Shudder Stop.
Do I keep shovelling money into it and when do I stop? Love the Truck though so I guess I’ll just keep emptying my wallet. 1971 Series 2a sold (regrettably)
1991 discovery (stolen, burnt, recovered, sold,)
2004 discovery td5 sold
2008 D3
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| 23rd Aug 2023 11:48 am |
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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2686
  
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Is a rusted Sill really an MOT failure?
There is no structural issue because of the separate Chassis. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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| 23rd Aug 2023 1:28 pm |
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jaqoda
Member Since: 23 Jan 2019
Location: Manchester
Posts: 150
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Mine just failed its MOT for the same reason. Was quoted around £1500+ for new sills to be fabricated and welded on.
I believe it is still a fail because (on mine) two of the holes on mine are within 30cm of the seat belt mounting point and suspension mounts.
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| 23rd Aug 2023 1:48 pm |
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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2686
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jaqoda wrote:I believe it is still a fail because (on mine) two of the holes on mine are within 30cm of the seat belt mounting point and suspension mounts.
The seat belt mounting points makes perfect sense, but not the suspension mounts.
The suspension is bolted to the Chassis, not the body. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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| 23rd Aug 2023 3:48 pm |
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motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 401
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JL92 wrote:
My D3 has a torque converter problem as well which I’ve been hiding with Shudder Stop.
Do I keep shovelling money into it and when do I stop? Love the Truck though so I guess I’ll just keep emptying my wallet.
If your torque converter is failing I'd guess your are 150k+ miles, with gearbox on borrowed time as well. At that age/mileage there are a few other costly items that could be queing up to raid your wallet. You are probably aware of these, and they are extensively covered on the forum.
Save the Disco if you can, but I would not base your decision just on immediate issues and repair costs. Chris
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| 23rd Aug 2023 4:12 pm |
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LeighW
D3 Decade
Member Since: 31 Jan 2006
Location: Brisbane, AUS
Posts: 918
 
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Nasher wrote:Is a rusted Sill really an MOT failure?
There is no structural issue because of the separate Chassis.
I believe that Land Rover says that it is neither a monocoque (body without chassis) nor a chassis only vehicle. It is a combination of both.
In the meantime I will search for some document I found on the Internet years ago.
EDIT: Found the following and it is taken from https://www.carpages.co.uk/land_rover/land...06_04.asp. Turns out it wasn't directly from LR but the author must have been given a heads-up on the details that are described below...
"The Land Rover Discovery 3 Structure
Published 25 June 2004 Melanie Carter
The body of the Discovery 3 is a combination of steel, much of which is high-strength grades, and aluminium. Unlike most bodies attached to separate platforms, the Discovery 3 body is a key part of the structure. This match of rigid body and strong platform gives Land Rover’s all-new Integrated Body-frame structure its uniqueness, its stiffness and its strength.
Integrated Body-Frame
The body's high torsional stiffness helps handling precision, driving refinement, ride and comfort, as well as reducing shakes and rattles. Although it has much greater cabin space, the Discovery 3 is only 176mm longer than the outgoing Discovery model, and only 30mm wider. It is also lower.
The Body in Detail
The Discovery 3’s body is manufactured like a conventional monocoque. Two monosides are welded to the floor, roof and bulkheads, creating a strong, single structure. Significant use is made of high-strength steels, while enormously strong boron steel is used for the A- and B-pillars, for added strength in front and side impacts.
The roof structure can accommodate both sunroof and alpine roof. The sunroof is a conventional cassette-type design that opens rearwards, outside the vehicle. The alpine roof is a large, full width glass roof bonded into the metal structure, above the second and third-row seats. To preserve strength, it is braced by cross members, invisible from the outside. When neither sunroof nor alpine roof is fitted, the outer roof panel is a single large steel pressing with styled swages to add strength and prevent booming.
The tailgate, doors, bonnet and front wings are separate, bolt-on assemblies. Lightweight magnesium alloy is used for part of the front structure and forms part of the front crash crumple zone.
The bonnet, a characteristic Land Rover clamshell design, is aluminium, which saves weight. Benefits include ease of opening and closing, with gas struts to provide assistance and retain the bonnet in the open position. The hinges allow the bonnet to be locked vertically for easier access to the engine compartment for servicing.
The asymmetric tailgate is a two-piece design, like the Range Rover’s. The lower half opens downwards, the top half upwards. The asymmetrically shaped design improves reach-in distance and load height.
"It is a distinctive design and true to Land Rover’s lineage," says design director Geoff Upex. "But it is also a very practical design, with real loading benefits."
When the vehicle is stationary, the upper tailgate can be closed independently of the lower tailgate, partly enclosing the vehicle interior while the lower tailgate can be used, for example, as a viewing platform. The lower tailgate is also designed as an acoustic chamber for the sub-woofer (where fitted) for the in-car entertainment system.
Both upper and lower tailgates are made from lightweight aluminium, which helps reduce total vehicle mass and also makes closing and opening easier. When fully open, the tailgates give superb access to the rear of the vehicle, to help with loading large or heavy objects.
All four doors are wide and provide easy access. Made of steel, they have boron steel-reinforced side intrusion beams to improve impact performance.
The front and rear bumpers, end trims, sill finishers and wheel arch eyebrows are all polypropylene injection mouldings to brush off minor damage in normal and off-road driving.
Both bumpers have energy absorbing elements to protect vital components in low speed impacts. The headlamp lenses are moulded in damage-resistant polycarbonate.
Advanced Paint Facility
The completed body is subjected to a comprehensive painting and finishing process to ensure it retains an attractive appearance throughout its long life.
All steel panels vulnerable to corrosion are zinc coated. Alloy structures, which are inherently corrosion resistant, are treated to prevent electrolytic interaction with adjoining steel components.
The body is finished in one of the most environmentally friendly and advanced paint facilities in the world."
Reading the above makes me pleased that I bought such an innovative motor car.
Just a shame about the Russian roulette engine... (my view) LeighW
The old girl is on her third engine...
* first ran a bearing (design failure in original engine)
* second had a failure of the water outlet on top of the engine (pls check yours)
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| 24th Aug 2023 5:30 am |
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JL92
Member Since: 15 Sep 2021
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 25
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[quote="motorworks"]JL92 wrote:
If your torque converter is failing I'd guess your are 150k+ miles, with gearbox on borrowed time as well. At that age/mileage there are a few other costly items that could be queing up to raid your wallet. You are probably aware of these, and they are extensively covered on the forum.
Save the Disco if you can, but I would not base your decision just on immediate issues and repair costs.
I had a quote for a new gear box £2800 installed, but that was over a year ago so… with the rising costs who knows. Still waiting on a quote to weld/repair/replace sills.
Aircon is acting up tried topping it up, but that only lasted a couple of weeks. So I recon not much change on £5000 to get it running nice again.
If I buy another D3 I’ll just be doing the same thing again but on another car , I’ve already installed a stereo upgrade, nice new tires, new compressor, and a snorkel.
The thing is other than a slight rumbling at 1500rpm the truck runs well. 1971 Series 2a sold (regrettably)
1991 discovery (stolen, burnt, recovered, sold,)
2004 discovery td5 sold
2008 D3
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| 24th Aug 2023 1:01 pm |
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