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sidney
Joined: 08 Dec 2007
Location: Hereford
Posts: 281
 
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Drivers footwell is in... thank  ! Pictures tomorrow.
Unfortunately had to resort to heating the box to idler steering rod up in the end to get the ball joints off, in the process managed to melt the threads inside  Quite common apparently! Will have to wait till tueday for the new parts 
My enthusiasm was starting to wain, then while ordering some bits from a local Landrover specialists (Ashbrook Garage) saw a couple of lovely landys being driven open topped by some mildly eccentric types obviously down for the Hay festival. The early Ninety was a nice sight with the full canvas removed, then I saw a gorgeous green Series1 80" Ragtop. mmmm I nearly spilt my seeds!  Has renewed my enthusiasm! Hoping to get a lot done over the weekend. I have (stupidly) set the target of MOT'ing it by the end of june. Decided to go for standard springs in the end, need to keep an eye on the budget. Need a set of shocks, so Gareth..... do I go for Monroe gas or Procomp 3000 (similar price) or pay another £7 a corner and gor for De Carbon???? Answers on a postcard to.......
Just want to say a quick Thankyou while Im at it, Had a lot of help from mates but especially Sam (Username: Landysam) and Will who have put a lot of time in working on her with me. Cheers Guys  Powered by : 
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 Fri May 30 2008 3:42pm |
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AndrewS
Tarquin of the Desert
Joined: 06 May 2005
Location: Earth
Posts: 5990
 
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CFB wrote:Hi Gareth, thanks for the info, I have already replaced those ball joints and it is still terribly vague, it won't hold a straight course and you have to constantly apply a little left or right lock to counter the wandering, not sure what else to try. The previous owner (Jowett 110) apparently replaced the steering box and swivels 
Welcome to the world of Defenders For use of a 4x4 site and driver training pm me 
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| Fri May 30 2008 4:01pm |
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CFB
Joined: 02 Dec 2005
Location: In't North somewhere....
Posts: 2350
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Not sure it should be this bad though Andrew, I have owned other Defenders that were OK. Maybe just a quirk of this one that I'll have to live with. TDV6 HSE Auto - Arctic Frost
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| Fri May 30 2008 4:11pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Joined: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bob the Builders 'ere
Posts: 9641
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@CFB, they are usually not the sharpest steering vehicles on the road at the best of times, so don't expect too much. But, you could check the front wheel bearings for excess end float - it makes a hell of a difference on my 2a when they need adjusting which is fairly regularly.
Also check the A frame ball joint that locates the rear axle (above the rear diff), also the radius arm bushes. It could be a combination of all of these. Silver TDV6 HSE
Pepper White Cooper S Convertible
Old English White MGB GT
Ex Military 109 Series 2a Soft Top
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| Fri May 30 2008 6:48pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Joined: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bob the Builders 'ere
Posts: 9641
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@ Sidney, go for standard. No point in the extra travel available on pro-comps with standard springs.
Also, with standard shockers, I would make sure you have check straps fitted to the rear axle, as standard shocks don't have internal 'stops' to prevent over extension at full articulation, pro-comps do. Silver TDV6 HSE
Pepper White Cooper S Convertible
Old English White MGB GT
Ex Military 109 Series 2a Soft Top
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| Fri May 30 2008 6:54pm |
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christoff
Joined: 04 Jun 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 45
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FleurT wrote:Bill Wright wrote:Sidney
I did a complete rebuild of a S3 a couple of years ago. Sold it on now but I've got all the manuals. They'll just fester in my garage. If you want them, you're welcome. I'll be back in UK three weeks and I can try to get them into the D3 courier system (Devon to Hereford anyone?). It includes two Haynes manuals, parts manual and a full LR workshop manual in loose leaf form. Could even throw in a hub nut box spanner if I can find it.
Let me know if you want them
Bill Wright
I could pick up from Devon and bring North, perhaps meet you just off M5 if that helps, will be going South in next 10 days.
 Not sure if still relevant but I do a Bristol run every Thursday from Hereford. I'm not around for a couple of weeks now, but I'd be happy to help out if needed.
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| Fri May 30 2008 11:34pm |
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AndrewS
Tarquin of the Desert
Joined: 06 May 2005
Location: Earth
Posts: 5990
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CBF check the joints on the radius arms. If they are worn the axles will move causing the vehicle to wander. You will tell if the rears have gone because it will pull to the right when you accelerate and to the left when you brake. For use of a 4x4 site and driver training pm me
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| Sat May 31 2008 8:47am |
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Bill Wright
Joined: 03 Nov 2007
Location: Mid- Devon
Posts: 510
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Sidney
Another cause of vague steering is a couple of stripped thread on bolts underneath the swivel housing. No drawings with me at present but if you get a decent lever and give the two swivel joints a good seeing to, you'll immediately become aware if they've failed.
As regards the manuals, I'll be home on 18 June and will pop up on here gain to see if there's a courier run on
Regards
Bill Wright D3 TDV6 S 06/56 Silver
Honda Pan European 2005
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| Sat May 31 2008 9:05am |
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sidney
Joined: 08 Dec 2007
Location: Hereford
Posts: 281
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Drivers Footwell now finished, pedal box and steering box back in situ, all selaed in with silicone to prevent any water and mud traps to prevent rusting again. Have bolted in with a few spot welds so it is easy to do again If I ever have to.
Nice bit of welding by Will  , his welding puts mine to shame! Fuel tank outrigger was shot, so replaced it. Fuel tank to outrigger bracket was not great, so welded in a new piece to strengthen it.
**Forgot to mention... we couldnt be arsed to remove the fuel tank, drain it, fill it with water etc, so all the welding and plasma cutting was done with the tank in place half full of fuel!  That'll keep you on your toes!!  **
Ourigger all finished, also re-welded the previously replaced front outrigger as it was not the nicest job in the world to say the least!
Steering box and idler oil changed, Ball joints removed, fair bit of play in three of them so they are being replaced. Powered by :
Last edited by sidney on Mon Jun 02 2008 10:35am; edited 1 time in total
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| Sun Jun 01 2008 11:51pm |
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discocuzzy
Joined: 02 Feb 2008
Location: surrey
Posts: 777
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Nice ...keep the pics and story board flowing sid "you cannot teach stupid people to do clever things"
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| Mon Jun 02 2008 12:09am |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Joined: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bob the Builders 'ere
Posts: 9641
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Nice job Sidney.
Heres a tip that will stop your new footwell rotting away the first time it gets wet. Under each front wing, there is a simple splash guard that stops the spray from the wheel going up into the engine bay. They attach each side to the 4 holes that you can see running across the top of the sloping section of the new footwell. If you bolt the splash guard tightly to the footwell, it will form a good seal from water (and mud) getting into the engine bay. However, mud and water will always get into the engine bay anyway, and as the splash guard is tight against the footwell, it will trap it, hence the rot will set in quickly.
I fitted longer than standard M6 bolts through those holes, and tightened them in place with a washer and nut, effectively making 4 studs to mount the splash guard onto. You then fasten the splash guard to the 'studs' with more M6 nuts, and the extra nuts sitting in between the guard and footwell keep a small gap to allow the mud and water to drain away Silver TDV6 HSE
Pepper White Cooper S Convertible
Old English White MGB GT
Ex Military 109 Series 2a Soft Top
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| Mon Jun 02 2008 12:12am |
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sidney
Joined: 08 Dec 2007
Location: Hereford
Posts: 281
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Funnily enough we have been discussing the splash guards this afternoon and came to the same conclusion. Mine are rusted out anyway, so I think we are going to make some larger items with a bit more coverage out of the old wing skins and door skin we have removed. Then as you say leave a bigger gap so the cant build up and will help the air to curculate and keep everythng drier around the footwells. Powered by :
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| Mon Jun 02 2008 12:18am |
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sidney
Joined: 08 Dec 2007
Location: Hereford
Posts: 281
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Work has taken precidence just lately, but managed to strip the front end down a bit more and give it all a good clean off. Got it on the ramps and washed underside off properly prior to prepping and painting the chassis. Passenger side footwell done... very neat job. All steering back together, no play at all now, Result
Made a start on the front brakes tonight, new shoes and springs going on, one cylinder maybe a bit dribbly so will need changing out. Bought a spare axle off my neibouring farmer for peanuts tonight, has lwb wheels on, and freewheeling hubs, Jobs a Good'un. New front leafs sat here ready to go on, and four new Armstrong shock absorbers being delivered tomorrow. Few pics:
passenger footwell: 
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| Mon Jun 09 2008 11:15pm |
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sidney
Joined: 08 Dec 2007
Location: Hereford
Posts: 281
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All the mechanical side pretty much done now, in the process of rust treating the chassis, then painting. Took her for a 'shakedown' yesterday evening. Wasnt really planning to but all of a sudden we realised we'd finished the suspension and brakes, it seemed rude not to try her out.
The new shocks all round and new front springs have made a world of diffrerence, we took her along a few farm tracks, then a private tarmac road, accross a couple of fields and ended up next to the pub.. shame that! The people already in there seemed to find it quite an ammusing site.. we still have no front wings or bonnet, and no doors!Couple of pints of 'Celtic Gold' and we were off again, but this time a good deal faster
The brake overhaul and new shoes seem to be doing the trick, bedding in nicely. Engine mount rubbers seem to be past their best, little bit of movement, but at £2.50 each I think my budget will allow replacement!
The whole thing ran even better than expected, flushing the cooling system and replacing the caps and a couple of hoses has done the trick, she now runs noticeably cooler. All in all the most enjoyable sunday afternoon I have had in months!
Few little niggles... speedo not working, probably have dislodged the cable with all our fettling. Handbrake adjustment not quite right yet. Still leaning to the drivers side. I was fairly sure the rear springs were ok, but one has obviously gone a bit week. In for a penny in for a pound, two new leafs have just been ordered. £27.50 each... bargain.
Jobs left to do: Finish the chassis painting. Fit new rear springs. Adjust handbrake, then refit panels.
Just incase there is anyone on here with any old parts from previous projects lying around they want to sell, I need to buy the following:
4 tyres, or four wheels with tyres (I beleive the Lwb or wolf wheels have a little more offset, so im on the lookout for a used set)
88" full canvas and hoodsticks, or bikini setup
Military style roll over hoop
Rear drop down tailgate
Fairy Overdrive
Front Seats
Will get some chassis pics up when I finish painting. Powered by :
Last edited by sidney on Mon Jun 16 2008 11:59pm; edited 2 times in total
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| Mon Jun 16 2008 12:41pm |
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Bodsy
Joined: 06 Nov 2006
Location: Home, home on the range........
Posts: 5471
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You don't do things by half do you Sidney!
Looking good, can't wait to see the finished beast TDV6 HSE Black, Black Wheels /MTR's(in the shed!), Black RRS front/rear LR badge (tbf) Black Leather, Black Glass, Black TowB, Shiny Tasmods, Dull Mantec, White (& Orange) Reflective D3 Sticker, Black steering wheel badge, black air intake. Optima & Traxide dual battery setup.
Need black RRS wheel centre caps.
Now with added Engel.....
We D3, therefore we are..........
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| Mon Jun 16 2008 12:56pm |
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