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Best settings/strategy for tackling a muddy slope?
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Pelyma
Joined: 06 Jan 2005
Location: Clymping, Sussex
Posts: 4471
 
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I have experienced climbs where you've ground to a halt and a few seconds later the TR has found traction and carried on, so don't give up too early! DS3 TDV6 HSE
Silver with Alpacca (old one)
DS3 TDV6 HSE
Silver with Alpacca (new one)
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 Thu Jul 10 2008 2:52pm |
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zetecr
Joined: 11 Aug 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 50
 
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Pelyma wrote:I have experienced climbs where you've ground to a halt and a few seconds later the TR has found traction and carried on, so don't give up too early!
I was also thinking about this.. As I mentioned, I gave up when it started to wheelspin with no forward motion, but now I'm wondering if I didn't give the systems a chance to do its thing, especially lock the diffs. I get the feeling only the front wheels were spinning, and if so, then perhaps I should have persevered. However, I was also worried about the car rotating on the slope if I kept wheelspinning..
Anyone know under what conditions the diffs start to lock? I know the manual tells me they are "partially" locked in Mud&Ruts and locked in Rock Crawl, but I figure they would lock in other modes depending on the traction situation. Do the centre and rear diffs lock independently (I do have the rear locking diff), or lock and unlock together?
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| Sun Jul 13 2008 12:41am |
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hernan1304
Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Location: Dubai
Posts: 368
 
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Center and rear lock independently.
I think it depends on the situation. They lock in rock crawl, but they should also lock in other TR settings if the conditions call for it.
You mentioned HDC in your OP - did you have it on as you reversed down?
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| Sun Jul 13 2008 7:16am |
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ianv
Joined: 20 Dec 2007
Location: Murrumbateman
Posts: 273
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If you use rock crawl mode and have a locking rear diff it will be locked straight away and the centre diff will lock on slippage. You will get traction control noise from the front of the car only and you shuld have DSC off to let the TC do it's best. Tyre pressure around 20lb will help a lot and make the tyres less prone to punctures from any sticks or rocks hidden in the mud. In desparate cases drop the tyres down to 12lb minimize steering angles and do not use big revs as you will break axels or CVJ's. With all wheels straight 2000 to 2500 revs in any gear is more than enough to do the job.
Low Gravity? I think he means drop the ride height if possible to lower the centre of gravity on tricky slopes.
And make sure you have fun as well. Take a shovel and a hand winch just in case. TDV6 S. Air Susp, locking Diff, Warn Winch, ARB bar, IPF lights, dual bats, G4 ladder, Frontrunner roofrack, rear wheel carrier, long range tank, Hannibal awning, 240V inverter, Cooper ST's, UHF, HF-VKS737 N3559
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| Mon Jul 14 2008 12:16pm |
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R2D3
Joined: 15 Jul 2008
Location: Canberra
Posts: 18
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Hi all!! This is my first posting so please excuse my name - I'm pretty unoriginal so blame my kids the star wars reference!
I almost lost my disco in lake Eucumbene last weekend - even though I lowered pressure to around 20, the stupid standard HP tyres clogged with muddy gunk and I ended sliding sideways about 30 meters toward the lake  . Turned off DSC & then managed to steer toward a pile of shale and then shot off into the right direction.  Luckily no Toymotor or Jeep drivers around to see me. Made me think that it may be time to replace the tyres with something that works in the mud a bit better!
I'm thinking of the silent armours on the 18 inch rims, but am tempted to get a 2nd set of rims (17 inch?) and put some MTRs on them. Before I make the 2 or 3k decision - would be really keen to hear anyone’s advice.. TDV6 HSE (2006 - ARB BullBar, UHF, Sat-Nav, GG AT2's, roof racks, full of fishing gear, kids cra#, and red nail polish on passenger seat from wife painting nails while offroad)
Volvo XC70 (2001) - SWMBO
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| Tue Jul 15 2008 4:32am |
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Desert Traveller
Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Location: South East Queensland
Posts: 298
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Good to hear that you got out OK. The Silent armors still look a little "closed" For an allround tyre you may want to try AT2's from General Tire, they won't be as good as mudders but they are available in 18" (255/60R18). This will save on a second set of tyres and wheels. Having one set saves on changing wheels everytime you want to go offroad. Just my opinion. 06 TDV6 SE with Extras
VW Eos TDI
Previously 01 TD5 and 94 TDI
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| Tue Jul 15 2008 4:51am |
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TDMP
Joined: 16 Jul 2006
Location: South Gippsland
Posts: 313
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Hi R2D3 - welcome to the site.
IMHO - road tyres = road driving and off road tyres = off road driving - anything in between is a compromise.
Along with a few others here, I have a second set of 17" Dynamic steel rims (about $120 ea) and Coopers STT's for off road. Takes me about 30 mins (including beers  ) to change over tryes the night before I head off bush...
...and the (expensive) alloys stay nice and scratch free and the (expensive) road tyres dont get damaged 
IMO  Tristan
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| Tue Jul 15 2008 8:35am |
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zetecr
Joined: 11 Aug 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 50
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hernan1304 wrote:You mentioned HDC in your OP - did you have it on as you reversed down?
Yes, I did have it on, but the tyres were so clogged and slippery it didn't make much difference. In any case, I chickened out and tried to brake during the decent backwards..
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| Tue Jul 15 2008 9:11am |
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R2D3
Joined: 15 Jul 2008
Location: Canberra
Posts: 18
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thanks desert traveller & TDMP. seems to be a question of cost (new rims & running 2 sets of rubber), convenience (or lack thereof - changing wheels every time you go off road) & need (how often in mud). there's an algorithm in there somewhere. By the way - Im impressed with the MTRs, but they don't make them in 18" .... yet. cheers Ian TDV6 HSE (2006 - ARB BullBar, UHF, Sat-Nav, GG AT2's, roof racks, full of fishing gear, kids cra#, and red nail polish on passenger seat from wife painting nails while offroad)
Volvo XC70 (2001) - SWMBO
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| Wed Jul 16 2008 10:46am |
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