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Anti Roll Bar bush spacers - How-To
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The Transformer
 


Member Since: 22 Jan 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 1791

England 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto Nara BronzeDiscovery 4

Can I just check on the latest info for this, is it still pop the spacers in or as above is there a new bush design that is a better long term bet?

Cheers Smile
  
Post #63830619th Apr 2010 5:31 pm
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713

Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

The Transformer wrote:
Can I just check on the latest info for this, is it still pop the spacers in or as above is there a new bush design that is a better long term bet?

Cheers Smile


Never had to replace a set of bushes in nearly 2 years after fitting these shims, as opposed to 3 months from a new set of bushes

HOwever, there are a new design of bush available so you dont need to spacers. UP to you at the end of the day

Mike Thumbs Up
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Post #6462428th May 2010 8:06 am
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The Transformer
 


Member Since: 22 Jan 2010
Location: Leicestershire
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England 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto Nara BronzeDiscovery 4

Cheers Mike Thumbs Up
  
Post #6462568th May 2010 8:38 am
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KL
 


Member Since: 16 Jun 2005
Location: Gilling, nr York
Posts: 713

Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 7 Seat Manual Buckingham BlueDiscovery 3

Fitted a pair of bushes (not shims) yesterday to the fronts.
A couple of observations:

1. the 18mm socket for the near side upper nut has to be REALLY short. I ended up grinding a fair bit off my socket to fit
2. even with a short socket, the clearance for a breaker bar is still REALLY tight. I ended up with a stubby 3/8 extension (3" or so) and an ultra-narrow head breaker bar
3. the 10mm nut holding the oil cooler is easy to get off and an absolute nightmare to get back on. Kept dropping out. Took me 45 mins to get aligned and sorted
4. bushes themselves are easy to fit to the bar, and the cover plate easy to fit into place (I used a small G clamp to ease the cover on top of the bush, so that the mounting studs would protrude sufficiently to give some bite when the nuts went back on)

I do hope I don't have to do this job again soon!

Parts cost £28 inc VAT for the pair of bushes
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Post #67081811th Jul 2010 10:26 pm
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disco_doozle
 


Member Since: 03 Nov 2007
Location: Bree
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Belgium 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

OK, spacers, great solution....but I was thinking.....why in rubber?

If you would make this in inox or alu.....then the spacer would also remova play because it squizes the bushing together like the rubber ones....
But with metal ones, the stay rigid......

So why not make them of metal instead of rubber????

Anyone a brilliant answer ...
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Post #68196812th Aug 2010 9:20 am
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disco rob
 


Member Since: 04 Jul 2010
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England 

Hi, does anyone know how much these spacers cost??
  
Post #69174810th Sep 2010 7:44 pm
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
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Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Approx £1.45 + VAT from a dealer Thumbs Up
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Post #69183611th Sep 2010 7:05 am
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marco 110
 


Member Since: 15 Nov 2009
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France 2012 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Fuji WhiteDiscovery 4

hello everyone!
just to help if it can serve, there are now new silent-bocks here :http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/bdd/e...BAR%20BUSH
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Post #69681325th Sep 2010 9:19 am
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361

United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

I did this job at the weekend, so thanks DiscoMikey and Ridgebackmoor for the guidance.

KL wrote:
2. even with a short socket, the clearance for a breaker bar is still REALLY tight. I ended up with a stubby 3/8 extension (3" or so) and an ultra-narrow head breaker bar


I used Halfords Pro 3/8" set and as long as the penetrating oil has done it's stuff, the std 18mm socket, small extention and std wrench had enough grunt to start it off. As I was only adding spacers this time, I left the top socket on and it was able to be undone enough without taking the socket off (different story for replacing ARB Bush though)

KL wrote:
3. the 10mm nut holding the oil cooler is easy to get off and an absolute nightmare to get back on. Kept dropping out. Took me 45 mins to get aligned and sorted


I removed the plastic undertray beyond the steel one that youhave to remove. This tool about 2 minutes to remove and made the access to the fuel cooler soo much better. It also gives visibility of the auto gear selector linkage, so you can grease up or fix as required.
As a result, it took two minutes to undo and the cooler bolt and put it back on again. Much more room for this one bit of the job.

I also did these on the drive, on a pair of std car ramps. Including off road mode. Because of the length of the breaker bar and the torque wrench, I could have done with the slightly higher car ramps. another 1" would have been fine Smile

But, the annoying knock has now gone. i test drove it along a farm lane near me that has plenty of potholes and corrugations i the road.

I do still have a knock, but I think that's the steering track rod ends and not as prevalent as the old knock was. Thumbs Up
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Post #77643320th Mar 2011 11:45 am
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Bodsy
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Some pics for above.....

Top ARB Nut
Click image to enlarge


I didn't bother removing the cross member as I could just about get enought access. If I was changing the ARB's instead of just inserting spacers, then I probably would next time.




Oil Cooler removal after removing plastic undertray
Click image to enlarge


Then from afar so you can see there is no platic undertray. access is really simple.

Click image to enlarge
 Bodsys Brake Bible

D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling


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Post #77644020th Mar 2011 12:11 pm
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J@mes
 


Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
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England 2014 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 XS Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Are there any torque settings for the bar clamps?
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Post #77994629th Mar 2011 7:41 pm
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dangermousehouse
 


Member Since: 20 Oct 2010
Location: Tewantin
Posts: 27

Australia 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Chawton WhiteDiscovery 3

Just done this today as I had a bit of a knock from the front. Thanks Disco_Mikey, your help gave me the confidence (and motivation) to get my ass into gear.

Still got a bit of knock, though. Not sure what's causing it.

Just one question. Somebody mentioned that spacers were no longer required with the new type bush. I'm not sure if I had the new type or not, but I'm wondering if there's any problem adding the spacer to the new type?

Cheers
  
Post #80643213th Jun 2011 9:03 am
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
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Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Never tried it, but I suspect you would probably struggle to get the new bush and the spacer in behind the clamp together...

Double check the bottom ball joints, track rod + ends, and also lower steering shaft if you still have a knock Thumbs Up
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Post #80660314th Jun 2011 6:03 am
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dangermousehouse
 


Member Since: 20 Oct 2010
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Australia 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Chawton WhiteDiscovery 3

Hi Disco_Mikey,

With fear of publicly looking a donkey, could you explain how to check the ball joints, track rod ends etc etc. (marine engines are more my line of spanner jockeying).

Cheers
  
Post #80664914th Jun 2011 9:18 am
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radders89
 


Member Since: 30 Aug 2010
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England 2015 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

As J@ames has already asked what are the torque settings for the ARB clamps? Doing mine tomorrow.... Wish me luck! Laughing
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Post #82182030th Jul 2011 5:58 pm
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