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Front Lower Ball Joints - How To
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 18916

Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3
Front Lower Ball Joints - How To

As promised, how to replace front lower ball joint Smile
If you need any help or further info, please feel free to PM or email me


From a previous Ball Joint thread Nick gave the new part numbers as...

RBK500230
RBK500240 (Cheers RBM, and TLO Thumbs Up )

Add these ball joints to ARB spacers (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic30622.html) and all will be well. I had access to a ramp here, but is easy enough to do at the side of the road/driveway etc Thumbs Up

Start by jacking car up, and removing front wheel. You will be confronted by this:
Click image to enlarge


Have an assistant hold the brake pedal down as hard as possible while undoing the hub nut. It will be extremely tight. An impact wrench is very useful here, but either method will do it

Click image to enlarge


Then remove 10mm bolt holding the brake flexi onto the hub carrier. Disconnect wheel speed sensor from the bracket, Then remove both caliper carrier bolts, a double hex (12 point) 21 mm socket and breaker bar is needed here. The bottom picture was taken from behind the hub looking outwards, showing the bolts. Need to take out the outer bolts
Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge


With the caliper removed, you can see the wheel speed sensor, just an 8 mm bolt holding it in. Sometimes seizes in, so requires gentle manipulation to remove it without breaking it
SteveNorman suggest that if the ABS sensor doesn't come out of the hub, (or the bolt is about to break off) (or is tight, & you risk damaging it) trace the wire back up, remove a couple of arch clips & unplug it from behind the arch liner, & leave in the hub, with the wire Thumbs Up

Click image to enlarge


Now, remove the driveshaft from the hub. There is a special tool to do this, but I prefer a big punch and hammer Whistle
Click image to enlarge


If it still doesnt move, then something to push the shaft out may be necessary. A little WD40 goes a long way though.

Click image to enlarge


Remove the track rod end nut, and upper arm nut, both 18mm nuts, and remove the bottom 24mm nut, but leave it on a thread or 2, so the hub cant fall off. You can also remove the brake disc so the hub assy isnt as heavy to lift on and off the car...
Click image to enlarge


Once the hub is off, you will be left with this:
Click image to enlarge


The proper way to do this is to remove the whole arm from the car and press it in and out, but this way is easier and quicker.
Remove circlip, support the suspension arm with an axle stand and find special tool* Either tie up the driveshaft or position to the side out of the way
The arm needs to be supported so when it is hit down the way, the shcok absorber is not at full reach, otherwise damage may occur to said shockie
*For special tool, find a socket that is no longer needed, that fits inside the 'cup' in the ball joint

Click image to enlarge


Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
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Last edited by Disco_Mikey on 8th Nov 2009 10:17 am. Edited 5 times in total 
Post #42371017th Feb 2009 8:05 pm
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 18916

Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Swing away with a big hammer making sure you dont catch the arch trims or driveshaft. See how many hits it takes you to get it out Thumbs Up
Once out...

Click image to enlarge


To refit the new ball joint, you will need to find something that will fit over the outer edges of it, but is also deep enough to not catch the threads of it either. I managed to get hold of the proper LR tool to fit it...

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge


Looks like it is well used Rolling with laughter


Remember and remove the axle stand before refitting. When refitting, WD40 helps again. When fitting, you can either hit the tool and balljoint up the way, into the arm. Or support them on something like a trolley jack, and hit the arm downwards onto the ball joint. Its all good.

Make sure it goes all the way in, until it is flush with the underside of the arm, so it looks something like this
Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge


Refitting is the reverse of removal. Torque setting are as follows:
Upper arm nut - 76Nm
Track rod end - 76Nm
Bottom arm nut - 115Nm
Driveshaft nut - 230Nm
Wheelnuts - 140Nm
Brake disc to hub is 35Nm
Caliper to cariier is 35Nm
Caliper carrier to hub is 275NM (Cheers Pete Thumbs Up )


Refit road wheel and repeat for the other side if necessary. Then go for a quick run and listen to how knock free your car is again. Then sit back and think how you will spend the £200 you have just saved yourself that SWMBO doesnt know about Whistle :thumbsup:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
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Last edited by Disco_Mikey on 20th Aug 2013 9:01 pm. Edited 5 times in total 
Post #42371417th Feb 2009 8:09 pm
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Bodsy
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Nice Thumbs Up

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Post #42371617th Feb 2009 8:12 pm
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
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Haynes sucks! Laughing
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Post #42372517th Feb 2009 8:18 pm
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bellautos
 


Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
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Nice post.

Brake disc to hub is 35Nm
Caliper to carrier is 35Nm
Caliper carrier to hub is 275NM


Regards pete
  
Post #42372917th Feb 2009 8:21 pm
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SteveNorman
 


Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
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United Kingdom 

Nice post.
If the ABS sensor doesn't come out of the hub, (or the bolt is about to break off) (or is tight, & you risk damaging it) trace the wire back up, remove a couple of arch clips & unplug it from behind the arch liner, & leave in the hub, with the wire.

By time the ball joints need renewing, the bushes are likely to be getting worn, so check carefully before you start.
The new wishbones (with larger balljoints) come with bushes & joints fitted. RBJ501540 + RBJ501550 might be a better choice.

Horses for courses though.

regards
Steve
  
Post #42426018th Feb 2009 4:10 pm
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ridgeback_moor
 


Member Since: 11 Mar 2008
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Great post Mike Thumbs Up

From a previous Ball Joint thread Nick gave the new part numbers as...

RBK500230
RBK500240

So there's a complete wishbone assembly available with new bushes and the modified ball joint? Anyone have a price and part number for that?
 Previously:
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Post #42429318th Feb 2009 5:41 pm
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BrumLee
 


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Looks easier than the MB Sprinter ball joints that I have to regularly change Wink

Cool write-up Mikey Thumbs Up
  
Post #42431418th Feb 2009 6:07 pm
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
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Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

SteveNorman wrote:
By time the ball joints need renewing, the bushes are likely to be getting worn, so check carefully before you start.
The new wishbones (with larger balljoints) come with bushes & joints fitted. RBJ501540 + RBJ501550 might be a better choice.


I did think about that, however, the bolts holing the arms onto the chassis are there to adjust camber and castor. Even if you mark these bolts and refit them exactly the same, you still risk knocking the wheel alignment out of spec, which is a big enough problem in itself.

But, it is worth considering if you have a fairly high mileage car or tyres are wearing unevenly anyway Thumbs Up
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Post #42434018th Feb 2009 6:59 pm
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SteveNorman
 


Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
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You are quite right, Camber, castor & wheel alignement will have to be done, but is likely to be out by time the bushes & joints are worn Very Happy

RBJ501540 + RBJ501550 are the complete wishbones, latest numbers, I fitted some yesterday. RRP113.06inc VAT each.

HTH
Steve
  
Post #42455518th Feb 2009 10:57 pm
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CG
 


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Supa write up Thumbs Up
 
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Post #42456118th Feb 2009 11:02 pm
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ramblinrookie
 


Member Since: 29 May 2009
Location: Kent
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Scotland 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3
New New Lower ball joint part number

Hi,

Apparently there is a new lower ball joint part number (referenced by TLO in July this) - RBK500280.

As an aside how good are OEM units - does anyone have experience of the Lemforder units?

Thanks
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Addictive blighters these Landrovers....Thought I had the bug bad - obviously just a beginner. 
 
Post #52417023rd Sep 2009 3:29 pm
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irl32
 


Member Since: 27 Aug 2009
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The large bushing located at the rear of the lower front wishbone needs chainging on both sides, also the top knuckle bushing on both of the rear wheels also require chainging,
Does any one have advice and pice for me. Very Happy
  
Post #5614787th Dec 2009 12:59 pm
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
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Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

irl32 wrote:
The large bushing located at the rear of the lower front wishbone needs chainging on both sides, also the top knuckle bushing on both of the rear wheels also require chainging,
Does any one have advice and pice for me. Very Happy


Have fun... Rolling Eyes

Best bet is to replace both front lower wishbones and both rear upper wishbones. Come ready fitted with all the bushes etc already Thumbs Up
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Post #5616207th Dec 2009 7:29 pm
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DSM
 


Member Since: 11 Feb 2010
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Mikey

What size of socket did you use for the hub nut, Im doing this job at the weekend?

Cheers
Danny
  
Post #6129022nd Mar 2010 10:36 am
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