DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Anybody taken the suspension compressor apart?

troverman

Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 50

Been hesitant to work on the compressor because we need the car daily. However, we are registering another vehicle today so that will allow the LR3 to be taken off the road for a couple of days if necessary to try and repair the compressor.

Can these 'voss' connectors be re-used? If not, where can I get more? How do they come apart? I have not looked at them.

Good info on making the compressor operate without computer control! Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County

Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE

Also Current:
2010 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5L
2002 Volkswagen EuroVan (T4) GLS
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro

Mon Jun 29 2009 7:12pm

stapldm

Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2302

2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

wiggs wrote:
I can confirm this does work . So if you need to test the compressor ..heres how...

Thanks Wiggs - nice job

Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?

Mon Jun 29 2009 9:24pm

caverD3

Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 5280

2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zambezi Silver

This is probably waht has happened to yours:

Click image to enlarge

You will find the decicant in the dryer is contaminated and blocks the filer om the compressor side. It will depend how long it has been leaking as to how much damage there is to the collar.
I just removed the O ring, cleaned the collar, etch primed it, wrapped some teflon tape around it and re-inseted the O ring.
I just took the dryer apart cleaned the filter pads, sived the small particles of decicant out and re-asssembled. I have not tested it as i will keep it as a spare.
You could do what I did and get a new dryer or if anyone knows what type of dessicant is used in the D3 compressor dryer put some new in.
Wiggs; any idea what they use? "A society that will trade a little liberty for a little order will lose both- and deserve neither"
Thomas Jefferson.

TDV6: Adaptive Headlights, Electronic Rear Diff, ARB Bar, Blaupunkt Speakers, JVC Powered Subwoofer, Removable Snorkel, Mitchell Bros Tow Hitch, Pioneer After Market Head Unit, Zenarc Touch Screen, In Car Sub-notebook, GPS Anntenna, Steering Wheel Control Adaptor, Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.

Tue Jun 30 2009 7:10am

Wex

Member Since: 16 Apr 2007
Location: Knackeragua
Posts: 5170

stapldm wrote:
wiggs wrote:
Yep i can test that . (when it stops raining )
Thanks wiggs!

Discowex, I think the connector type is called Voss; can't put my finger on the sizes at the moment...

Edit : Winger mentioned the part number for a repair connector in this post; that should give the sizes?

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post2948.html#2948

Cheers

Tue Jun 30 2009 8:21am

troverman

Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 50

Well I worked on it last night. I did see that pipe that appeares to be coming out of the exhaust valve (and it seemed slightly popped out) but there doesn't seem to be a leak there. (as pictured in above post) The leak seems to be coming out of the blue or red fittings on the dryer (i think blue). I'm assuming I can get these fittings from the dealer and replace them? You can definitely feel a good stream of air coming out in that area when the compressor is on; when it shuts off you can hear (and feel) air hissing out for a minute before it runs out of pressure and stops.

The weird thing is, I can make it raise the truck up to off-road height--if I hit the raise button immediately after starting the car. The back goes up better than the front. With the volume of air coming from the leak, I don't see how it could lift the vehicle. Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County

Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE

Also Current:
2010 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5L
2002 Volkswagen EuroVan (T4) GLS
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro

Tue Jun 30 2009 1:03pm

wiggs
Site Sponsor

Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 9052

2011 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Fuji White

It will always lift the back easier than the front due to the weight of the engine G4 Gone ...but not forgotten

*New D4 Bluetooth modules ...Pm me for details*
*New Engine ECU 's .. 3.0L ...Pm me for details*
*Timed climate remotes ...Pm me for details *
*Digital TV tuners ....PM me for details
FAULTMATE MSV2 - D3 & D4 MULTI LICENCE

4X4 info screen enabled / off road sat nav unlocking / bluetooth upgrades , D4 timed climate and more ..contact me for more info

Tue Jun 30 2009 1:08pm

troverman

Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 50

And add in the weight of the XP winch on the front of ours...

How do the fittings come apart? Some (on the valve block) have a copper nut, I assume you unscrew to remove? Can these be re-used? Others have just colored plastic rings, do these pull straight out? Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County

Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE

Also Current:
2010 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5L
2002 Volkswagen EuroVan (T4) GLS
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro

Tue Jun 30 2009 1:10pm

wiggs
Site Sponsor

Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 9052

Sorry cant help you there ..never dismantled any of the air lines . I would suspect they can be re used though G4 Gone ...but not forgotten

*New D4 Bluetooth modules ...Pm me for details*
*New Engine ECU 's .. 3.0L ...Pm me for details*
*Timed climate remotes ...Pm me for details *
*Digital TV tuners ....PM me for details
FAULTMATE MSV2 - D3 & D4 MULTI LICENCE

4X4 info screen enabled / off road sat nav unlocking / bluetooth upgrades , D4 timed climate and more ..contact me for more info

Tue Jun 30 2009 1:23pm

caverD3

Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 5280

The blue Line is the high pressure line out from the compressor, the red goes to the exhaust valve.
Looks like yours isn't leaking from the bottom of the dryer.
try just pushing the connectors back in first, they may just have popped out. The fittings are part of the dryer unit so I don't think you will be able to replace on their own.
Worst case looks like it may be just a new dryer, cheaper than a new compressor.

"A society that will trade a little liberty for a little order will lose both- and deserve neither"
Thomas Jefferson.

TDV6: Adaptive Headlights, Electronic Rear Diff, ARB Bar, Blaupunkt Speakers, JVC Powered Subwoofer, Removable Snorkel, Mitchell Bros Tow Hitch, Pioneer After Market Head Unit, Zenarc Touch Screen, In Car Sub-notebook, GPS Anntenna, Steering Wheel Control Adaptor, Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.

Tue Jun 30 2009 11:49pm

LR3GuyJoe

Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: Space Coast Florida
Posts: 408

theres a new compressor on ebay for $400 with free shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-Suspens...1%7C39%3A1 Sceen name use to be "wantsanlr3"

Club Traxide
Club RLD winch mount
Club MTRs

-MY05 SE
-A frankenstein Mini '66 sportspack with a vauxhall lump
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Wed Jul 01 2009 7:09pm

troverman

Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 50

See my post "Suspension dealership fiasco."

Got the new dryer. Problem now worse than before, front is on the bump stops, back is up in the air. "Raising slowly, will raise when cools," etc.

Great. Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County

Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE

Also Current:
2010 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5L
2002 Volkswagen EuroVan (T4) GLS
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro

Wed Jul 08 2009 8:57pm

troverman

Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 50

I think I got it fixed!

I let all the air out of the system, then removed the compressor assembly. I started by removing the black electric motor housing cover. I could then grasp the motor and manually turn it with my hand: it would only turn maybe a half-turn in one direction, then stop.

Taking the valve off the top of the cylinder revealed the piston, it looked fine! I next took the cover off the front of the motor housing; it is held on by 3 screws and you need to pry it off because of a sticky sealer material. Once this is off, you can see the crank, counterbalance, connecting rod, and bottom of the piston. Ta-da! The bottom of the rod had come off the crank, while the bearing remained on the crank. (The bearing is not supposed to separate from the rod). Thus, when the motor turned on, the attached bearing hit the disconnected rod, preventing the motor from turning.

It seems like the bearing is held into the con-rod by a series of metal tabs that are bent over once the bearing is inserted. These tabs prevent th bearing from sliding out. In my case, they were gone, but there was lots of metal shavings and powder in the crank area.

I took the bearing off and removed the piston and con-rod. Nothing was broken and the bearing spun freely. I cleaned the surfaces with alcohol, then used a cold-weld epoxy (J-B Weld) to 'weld' the bearing into the bottom of the con-rod. I let it set for the weekend, I am going to install tonight. I cannot pull the bearing out of the con-rod, so I think it is fixed.

I will have to jumper the compressor at the relay because I understand the computer will not activate the compressor if no pressure is detected in the system.

I'll post tomorrow morning if it is a success. And if I saved a grand. Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County

Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE

Also Current:
2010 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5L
2002 Volkswagen EuroVan (T4) GLS
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro

Mon Jul 13 2009 4:45pm

caverD3

Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 5280

Well done Troverman

Shows lots of initiative. Very unusual fault, maybe this was one problem with first build compressors?
Compressor will definitely start with the air out of the reservoir but maybe the valves stop it draining the rest of the air. "A society that will trade a little liberty for a little order will lose both- and deserve neither"
Thomas Jefferson.

TDV6: Adaptive Headlights, Electronic Rear Diff, ARB Bar, Blaupunkt Speakers, JVC Powered Subwoofer, Removable Snorkel, Mitchell Bros Tow Hitch, Pioneer After Market Head Unit, Zenarc Touch Screen, In Car Sub-notebook, GPS Anntenna, Steering Wheel Control Adaptor, Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.

Tue Jul 14 2009 3:34am

troverman

Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 50

Car is up and running!

The compressor did come on right away after startup. However, I quickly got the amber fault lights. The front came up, but the back did not, so it looked a little strange. I had to go through probably 5 restart cycles, and a short ride, and another restart but finally the fault light went away and everything was normal. Initially the car was giving all sorts of fault messages, "System Fault," "Transmission Fault," "Special Programs Off," Suspension Fault, Normal Ride Height Only," etc. Finally they went away. Took it for a ride, all was serene. Took it for a second ride later, and right off the amber light came back on, then slightly later the red(!) fault. I pulled over, restarted, and then no faults. On the way to work this morning there was an amber fault, and I did not hear the compressor running. Upon restarting, they cleared.

Hopefully this stuff all clears out and all is fine, but the car is up and running, very happy to have saved some money for now anyway.

How do I post pics? I have pics (not great) of the piston and bearing where it came apart. [/img] Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County

Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE

Also Current:
2010 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5L
2002 Volkswagen EuroVan (T4) GLS
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro

Tue Jul 14 2009 12:46pm

caverD3

Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 5280

Early model D3 cascade faults problem.
You may need to get the faults cleared to stop them recuring. "A society that will trade a little liberty for a little order will lose both- and deserve neither"
Thomas Jefferson.

TDV6: Adaptive Headlights, Electronic Rear Diff, ARB Bar, Blaupunkt Speakers, JVC Powered Subwoofer, Removable Snorkel, Mitchell Bros Tow Hitch, Pioneer After Market Head Unit, Zenarc Touch Screen, In Car Sub-notebook, GPS Anntenna, Steering Wheel Control Adaptor, Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.

Tue Jul 14 2009 12:55pm