cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
  
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Hey does anybody have a detailed video please?
I know there’s a few on YouTube but they don’t really cover as much detail
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 16th Mar 2021 8:29 pm |
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Devon Z
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Brixham Devon
Posts: 238
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I’m just about to do the the timing belts and replace the oil pump, I’ve got the locking kit my question is I’ve read to remove the starter motor the car needs to be put on ramps which will make doing the rest of the job more difficult? What’s the time line on doing this job with the flywheel locking tool?
Many thanks in advance. Steve
*2005 RR Sport 2.7tdv6 HSE. Current project.
*98 Volvo V70R FWD, owned 14 years, future project.
*99 BMW Z3 30k miles owned from new.
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| 17th Mar 2021 10:44 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
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Front belt:
Remove fan (cover any air intake pipes to prevent tools dropping down them)
Find a socket which fits crank bolt.
Remove air intake, in front of Y
Remove aux belt noting routing
Loosen lower cambelt cover bolts.
Open boot and fold seats down if you want to use for storage
Disconnect battery
Jack car up
Undo belly pan (do earilier if you haven’t removed it before)
Remove gearbox belly pan
Undo 1 10mm bolt holding heat exchanger, and flop out the way
Undo starter 13mm bolts and slide it forward. (If this doesn’t give you enough room, put it back (comments anyone?) and undo cables ) And then remove.
Remove rubber cover above starter hole.
Check to see if the tool will fit the outer diameter of the hole. File tool down.
Undo required coolant pipes at the top, trying not the get ground wet!
Remove cambelt cover
Rotate crank around to align with locking holes at top
Try and insert crank locking tool.
It Will probably necessary to move the crank a tiny amount.
Insert top locking tools if they will go in
Undo cambelt tensioner noting belt routing.
Insert cam locking pins if not already installed
Last edited by Pete K on 17th Mar 2021 4:56 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 17th Mar 2021 12:03 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6234
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@Devon Z
For both belts and oil pump is about 3.5 hours..
Flack 
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| 17th Mar 2021 3:23 pm |
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Devon Z
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Brixham Devon
Posts: 238
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Thanks Pete that’s great. Now I know I can just jack it up.
Flack. I think I might take a bit longer than that!!!😬 think I’m going to do the rear belt first as a separate job to break myself in then tackle the front of the engine.
Wish me luck👍 Steve
*2005 RR Sport 2.7tdv6 HSE. Current project.
*98 Volvo V70R FWD, owned 14 years, future project.
*99 BMW Z3 30k miles owned from new.
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| 17th Mar 2021 3:43 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
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That might put you off  and not achieve Much
For the rear belt, suspension in access mode.
And I removed the grill.
Last edited by Pete K on 17th Mar 2021 7:18 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 17th Mar 2021 4:54 pm |
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Devon Z
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Brixham Devon
Posts: 238
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I’m not easily put off and got plenty of time😁 Steve
*2005 RR Sport 2.7tdv6 HSE. Current project.
*98 Volvo V70R FWD, owned 14 years, future project.
*99 BMW Z3 30k miles owned from new.
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| 17th Mar 2021 7:05 pm |
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Devon Z
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Brixham Devon
Posts: 238
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Okay so done pump belt today as per Disco’s excellent write up, I had no record that this belt was changed when the cam belt was last done so it’s probably the original? looked like it.
Couple of differing things I found.
1 - I had to unplug the N/S injector loome to move it out of the way, took an age get the cover out😬
2 - I could not for the life of me install the belt and tensioner together as per Disco’s write up so in the end
I fitted the tensioner loosely then fitted the belt round the pulleys and it then just slipped nicely over
the tensioner, tightened the bolt, pulled pin all good.
Tomorrow I’ll start the cam belt/oil pump job. Steve
*2005 RR Sport 2.7tdv6 HSE. Current project.
*98 Volvo V70R FWD, owned 14 years, future project.
*99 BMW Z3 30k miles owned from new.
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| 21st Mar 2021 6:46 pm |
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DanH
Member Since: 28 Aug 2017
Location: Sussex
Posts: 4
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Having read this post I wondered if someone could advise me please?
I have a D3 TDV6 2007. I really have an extremely limited knowledge about Landys.
I was driving home the other day and it lost power, I was turning across a busy main road and managed to bring it safely to a stop half on kerb. The Steering went heavy and just the one warning light - amber engine light came on. I switched off and waited before trying to start it. I think it was turning over but wouldn't start. AA attended and asked me to turn it over, he took the engine oil filler cap off and watched as I turned it over. He said "The belts have gone" He wasn't able to say which ones.
Is there any way I can EASILY find out which belts, The Drive Belt or The Cam Belt?
And if the belts have 'gone' why do garages say it's a body off chassis job and would cost about £3K upwards????
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| 28th Mar 2021 6:28 pm |
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aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
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Its most likely the the oil pump casing has failed were the belt tensioner attaches.
Its very common most people fit the uprated oil pump before this happens.
Your engine may need a lot of work to get it going again or it may be un-repairable. Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
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| 28th Mar 2021 6:45 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
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Have a look at the belt cover at the front of engine. On drivers side, is there a Crack or hole. It’s a sign of pump/belt tensioner failure
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| 28th Mar 2021 6:53 pm |
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DanH
Member Since: 28 Aug 2017
Location: Sussex
Posts: 4
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Thanks, I'll take a look.
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| 30th Mar 2021 9:14 pm |
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DanH
Member Since: 28 Aug 2017
Location: Sussex
Posts: 4
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aja4x4 wrote:Its most likely the the oil pump casing has failed were the belt tensioner attaches.
Its very common most people fit the uprated oil pump before this happens.
Your engine may need a lot of work to get it going again or it may be un-repairable.
The reason I ask is that I was hoping to sell it ( as a non runner) but is it the case that the potential damage (or not) will only be revealed if you delve inside and take a look? Is that a correct assumption?
I was hoping that it was a case of the belt snapping and thats all, there was no bang or distressed engine sound. I was hoping that having read so many posts on here and seen the things you guys are capable of it would sell as a repair project. (The rest of the car is in great condition, loads of parts less than three years old.) Is it time for it to go to Land Rover heaven !??
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| 30th Mar 2021 9:22 pm |
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aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
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Your car is worth very little as a non runner most of the time the engines are beyond repair but as you say the only way to tell is to strip it down.
You cannot get away with just fitting a new oil pump and belt, the engine will have valve damage on both sides and its possible for the block to warp or the crank to crack on these engines Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
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| 30th Mar 2021 10:19 pm |
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ds23man
Member Since: 19 Jan 2013
Location: Ainum
Posts: 227
 
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Flack wrote:No do not use anything on the bolts its not required..
@lr-80
Its the same as right hand drive just follow Disco_Mikeys how to on here and you will be fine..its just on the other side.
Flack
It's not the same for a left hand drive car: you don't need to remove the cable loom to the engine ecu and transfer case ecu and the battery can stay in place! Citroen DS23IE
Audi A6 2.4 V6 Avant Quatro (1998)
Audi 80 2.6 v6 Cabriolet (1996)
John Deere 4240S
McCormick 323
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| 6th Jun 2021 10:47 am |
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