Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50937
Just to give a contrast, I have Traxide and a YT and experienced the same desert heat as Slimer and Gareth ...however both batteries performed very well indeed. It must be an issue of battery condition in both cases IMO 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
12th Nov 2010 1:39 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
There maybe a relay in the car sticking ..causing battery drain .
Not much use at the moment ...but a cheap easy mod i use .
The original connector from main battery to second battery
Get yourself a small bit of battery lead and another anderson connector ( i used red just so i know which is which ) . Connect it up and leave the anderson tucked behind the battery .
If you then find you have a flat main cranking battery , just disconnect the traxide plug and connect the new one . You have an ready made jump lead to power your main cranking battery off the aux one .
I have had to use this a few times while messing with the car and leaving stuff on
G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
Last edited by wiggs on 12th Nov 2010 2:02 pm. Edited 1 time in total
12th Nov 2010 1:54 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Neat idea Wiggs Saves having to carry a jump lead around Bodsys Brake Bible
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12th Nov 2010 2:43 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26705
Got home now, and measured the batteries. The LED on the Traxide unit is flashing as it should
The main battery is reading 10.1 v, the aux yellow top is reading 12.7, so that exonerates the Traxide completely.
I am about to call LRA to come and start it, and check it over. I could jump it myself from the YT, but I think its best to log the problem with LRA, it is under warranty after all.
12th Nov 2010 3:42 pm
PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
Gareth - does the LR battery have a little green/yellow/red indicator window anywhere on the top?
If it had and it's red, then you should be able to tell this to LRA and they'll probably bring a new battery with them to change it...
Just a thought 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE AutoBuckingham Blue 2007 Golf GT DSG
12th Nov 2010 3:47 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26705
The main battery does not have a condition indicator. LRA on their way
12th Nov 2010 4:19 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26705
LRA engineer has been. After jump starting the car, he did all the tests and it all checked out ok. He says that the first time this haPpened, I should have been asked to take the car in to the dealership for a full battery recharge. He says that the D3 alternator will only surface charge the main battery, and will not fully replenish a flattened battery. ISTR this has been discussed on the forum in the past, so is probably why it has been slow to crank since the first incidence.
So it is going into Guy Salmon in Stockport on Monday for a full recharge and check over.
Last edited by Gareth on 13th Nov 2010 7:04 pm. Edited 1 time in total
12th Nov 2010 6:56 pm
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Hi Gareth and thanks for the thumbs up on you Traxide set up.
Next, I’m not sure what the service guy was trying to say. The only reason your battery, in a normal good condition, would not be fully charged is when the vehicle is not driven long enough to give the alternator time to fully charge all the batteries.
There is a lot of confusion about the state of charge ( SoC ) that can be achieved when charging a Calcium/Calcium ( Ca/Ca ) battery, like the cranking battery used in LRs.
A Ca/Ca battery can not be fully charged by an alternator, and thats by any alternator not just LRs.
The misunderstanding comes about by the belief that a Ca/Ca battery will only be partially charged to say about 70 or 80% SoC and this will damage the battery.
If these batteries were only charging to around 70% SoC then eventually they would have a short life. The reality is that even the most basic alternator operation will charge Ca/Ca batteries up to around 95 to 97% and this info comes from one of Exide’s subsidiary companies, so it’s not hearsay or from one of the many self proclaimed experts.
While Ca/Ca battery technology is relatively new, these batteries have now been around long enough and in large enough numbers to show that even though they will NEVER be fully charge in normal vehicle use, they still have a better than average life span and the only way they can be “fully charged†is by a battery charger that has a specific Ca/Ca charging mode.
Gareth as you are getting the battery “fully charged†by the dealer, just unplug the isolator before you drop the D3 off. This will allow the dealers charger, if it has a Ca/Ca mode, to give full benefit to the cranking battery.
This suggestion is just to save any theoretical problems the dealer “might’ argue about having a dual battery set up in your D3. This is probably not a problem over there but is is a problem here, particularly when most dealer's “auto electrician†is a mechanic
Note for anyone charging their batteries at home, there is no need to separate the batteries, just hook the charger up to the cranking battery and all the batteries will be full charged.2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
12th Nov 2010 9:54 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26705
I never knew how complex it all has become! I have already disconnected the aux battery. My dealer knows all about the setup the car has, and I know they will give the car a thorough check over next week without trying to pass the blame to the auxilliary system.
13th Nov 2010 1:36 am
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26705
Almost certain that the cranking battery has collapsed completely. With the Traxide disconnected all night, the car was dead this morning. I jump started from the aux, and have just done a 30 mile trip. Got home and switched off. 15 minutes later, tried to start and its dead.
When jump started, and riunning there is 14 volts at the terminals. When stopped it quickly drops to 10volts.
I'm not going to drive it anymore in case it damages anything else. It can go into GS on Monday for them to sort out.
Just reading this in some bemusement.,.. very interesting stuff.
I don't have dual batteries. I'd assumed I could use my standard charger to charge the Disco battery; is this suggesting I need a special charger in order to get it fully charged?
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..and getting dirty in the process ....well not a problem for me ..but you suit types 
