Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
Rear Propshaft Bearing/Bush
I am getting vibration at high speed under load and have discovered that the rear propshaft centre bush is sft and covered in powdered black rubber.
Looks like it needs replacing.
Is it a complete new shaft?
Will the D4 shaft or bearing fit thew D3?“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
fraid it's a complete shaft if the bush has gone
TVB500360
D3 & D4 shaft are the sameTLO has left the building.......
I no longer work for a Landrover Dealer
My little chilli sauce business http://www.thechillees.co.uk
if you would like to order anything just give me a shout
23rd Nov 2010 9:53 am
caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
Bu@@er
Thanks Nick.
So same part number for both D3 and 4? and no change to any MY model?
Was hoping they may have beefed up the compound. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
iv'e only supplied 7 in the whole D3/D4 lifespan so not a common failureTLO has left the building.......
I no longer work for a Landrover Dealer
My little chilli sauce business http://www.thechillees.co.uk
if you would like to order anything just give me a shout
23rd Nov 2010 10:06 am
caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
Thanks Nick
Looks like another fight with extended warranty. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
23rd Nov 2010 10:22 am
Tawny Owl
Member Since: 22 Oct 2008
Location: Here and there
Posts: 1645
The Large One wrote:
Nope
no chassis breaks or p/n changes
iv'e only supplied 7 in the whole D3/D4 lifespan so not a common failure
And one of those was mine
23rd Nov 2010 11:05 am
caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
Same symptoms?“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
23rd Nov 2010 11:07 am
Tawny Owl
Member Since: 22 Oct 2008
Location: Here and there
Posts: 1645
Yep same symptoms but it never cured it , turns out it was transmitting through the autobox
A mega flush helped it and got rid of the bad vibration under load around 30mph but you can feel this slight vibration when normal driving.
Hopefully getting the ATF checked for coolant contamination this week
23rd Nov 2010 11:16 am
caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
Just had a reconditioned box put in solved judder at 60 and 80kph and stopped harsh downchanges, very smooth now but only occures at high speed under (about 100kph)“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
23rd Nov 2010 11:22 am
HughMartin
Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751
Hate to take business away from "The Large One" but Island 4 x 4 (http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/-c-2404.html) supply a bearing/bush/carrier assembly (Britpart no. DA2395). Retail price £46 inc vat & delivery.
Don't know how easy it is to split the prop shaft and replace the bearing but I should be able to tell you in a few days as I have just ordered one.
27th Jul 2011 12:28 pm
scooby driver
Member Since: 02 Jan 2011
Location: London
Posts: 145
Another was mine as the cv joint gaiter lost all its grease.
I've got the old one in the garage and cannot work out how you would fit just the bracket let us know how it goes
27th Jul 2011 6:44 pm
HughMartin
Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751
I have just replaced the centre support bearing/bush on my propshaft using the Britpart replacement bearing as mentioned in my previous post. This was triggered by a clunking noise from the propshaft area when reversing. A quick inspection under the car showed that the rubber bush holding the support bearing in the carrier was disintegrating.
Replacing the bearing wasn't too difficult but re-assembling the articulating bearing which is sealed in at the forward end of the aft section of the propshaft beat me. Having got the propshaft all back together, the articulating bearing was rock solid and would neither bend nor allow the sliding splined section to slide at all. It was as if it had been given a double dose of viagra!
Here is how I got on.
1. Having got access to the underneath of the car, remove the heat shield which covers this section of the propshaft - a straightforward job.
2. Remove the propshaft. Dead easy - Four bolts at the rear u/j, six at the front end and two holding the centre bearing carrier.
3. Now you have to split the propshaft just aft of the support bearing. It is probably a good idea to mark the two sections of the propshaft so that it is assembled the same way to keep the balance the same.
4. Remove the circlip over the rubber boot on the neck of the shaft just aft of the support bearing.
5.There is now a seam which you have to lever up to split the shaft. I used a small braddle and slowly worked my way round the circumference of the join. Try not to distort the edge too much as you will have to tap it all back down as best you can to re-seal it. Try not to nick the “o†ring which is under the cover to the left of the seem in the photo below. You will also see the support bearing on the left hand side of the photo (or the top if your browser has orientated the photo vertically).
Click image to enlarge
4. Once you have got this bit apart you be met by a very dirty mess in which you will find a large cage bearing. Before you pull it all apart, clean off as much of the old grease as necessary to allow you to mark the inner and outer parts of the cage and also the bearing housing on the shaft so that you can put it all together the same way. If you don't (which was my mistake) you may have great difficulty re-assembling the cage bearing and placing it back into the rear shaft. As you separate the two shafts, the cage bearing will come away from the rear shaft as it is attached to the front shaft splines with a circlip (See photo further down with all the dirt grease removed.) . Carefully remove the cage bearing parts (having marked them up for correct refitting!) and try not to loose any of the six large ballbearings
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
5. You now need to remove the old support bearing using conventional brute force if necessary if you don’t have a suitable bearing puller. There is a retaining ring on the splines which needs to be prised off first. Take note of the way it is fitted as the new bearing comes with a new retaining ring which needs to be pushed onto the shaft after the new bearing is pressed on.
6. Having cleaned out the CV joint, it needs to be re-assembled with new grease. (This is where I went wrong. I just could not get it together again without excess force.) You now need to put the cage bearing cover over the splines of the front shaft and push the splined shaft of the front propshaft section into the CV joint which should click nicely into the circlip. The edges of the cover now need to be pressed back into the groove on the rear shaft.
7. Now it is just a matter of putting a clip round the rubber boot on the splined section of the front shaft and refitting it to the vehicle.
Unfortunately in my case, once I had re-assembled it all, the mid section joint was locked solid and wouldn’t articulate at all. There was no way the propshaft could be refitted to the vehicle. I am fairly sure this was because I didn't mark up the different parts of the cage bearing and have therefore re-assembled it incorrectly.
I could de-assemble it all and try again but this would mean levering up the circumference of the CV joint seal again and I am not convinced it would reseal properly. The last thing I want is the propshaft to start disintegrating while doing 70mph down the motorway. I will sleep easy with a new propshaft.
Does anyone want to purchase a used propshaft - going cheap!
29th Jul 2011 10:30 pm
chrisbowler
Member Since: 30 Jan 2009
Location: UK WALES
Posts: 176
I get prop shafts reconditioned by a local prop shaft specialist and was toild catagorically that D3 Rear prop shafts cannot be successfully split - therefore I question why BRITPART think they can sell this replacement centre bearing unit to unsuspecting customers who try to replace it
Chris BowlerChris Bowler
D3 2005 EXPEDITION
D2 Challenge Vehicle
300 TDi Spare car
107" TD5 Comp Safari Motor
30th Jul 2011 9:53 pm
jono359
Member Since: 02 Sep 2011
Location: nottinhamshire
Posts: 7
i agree with chris bowler...
ive just found out my centre bearing is now non exsistant and god only knows how ive not had some kind of accident. after extensive research on this forum i have come to the conclusion that the prop cannot be split and a new prop is needed to remedy the centre bearing issue.
so why do britpart sell the bearing???
im sure there are people on here who may have succesfully split their prop and replaced the bearing but i certainly will not be doing that.
9th Apr 2013 8:44 am
tomtom86
Member Since: 09 Mar 2013
Location: Here and there
Posts: 590
^^ Totally agree. Just replace the complete prop they aren't that expensive considering what it is and saves having to replace it in 3 weeks when the Britpart bearing fails (which it almost certainly will!!)
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