I successfully replaced the center support bearing/bush on my prop shaft using the part from ebay, which is only $60.
I followed Hugh Martin's procedure as it is and it worked perfect.
If I add couple of more tips on top of below procedure.
(1) How to secure good sealing around seam which I had to level up to split the shaft
- I found I made small damage to O-ring unfortunately, when leveling up with some small braddle. But even if I made it good to separate without damaging, seaming back to original may not provide enough O-ring compression, which causing CV joint grease leaking. So I applied RTV sealant to outside gap between two covers. And it worked perfect preventing all grease leak.
(2) CV joint cage re assembly
- Due to messy oil and grease, and due to tight fitting of the case, it may not be easy to mark original location. So leave it out as it comes out.
- Instead, you can Google how to assemble CV joint cage, it is very simple. The structure is very simple. Only thing very important is to assemble to match outside wider ball bearing dam to mate with narrower ball bearing dam inside tube. Simple "Wider guide wall to Narrower guide wall". This is all you need. If CV joint doesn't flex to turn, then check the assembly. If it is not correct, then don't panic, but slightly tapping on case with plastic or wood hammer, then it may pot out easily.
- After CV cage re assembled, if there is not enough grease inside it, fill it with extra CV joint grease or synthetic grease.( I used synthetic grease to re fill it, and it works very fine so far for 6 months)
(3) Removal of old support bearing
- Without bearing puller, I don't think it is possible to remove it. I tried many different options to take it out, but couldn't work it out. In the end, I decided to grind it out using my electric grind drill, and after 4 hours struggling, I could cut it out to remove from shaft. This is one of the biggest part for whole process.
(4) Mid section of joint locked solid and wouldn't articulate
- This is simply due to wrong mating of CV joint outer housing with inner ball cage.
Just simply follow this rule will make CV joint works. "Wider guide wall on outer housing to mate with narrower guide wall on ball bearing cage inside".
Greatly appreciate Hugh Martin's posting. It helped a lot.
I fixed damaged center bearing of my Rr propeller shaft only with $60, but spent almost 12 hours to figure out all tricks. But if you have bearing puller, and if you pre research on CV joint assembly, and with black RTV sealant in hand, then I believe 3~4 hours should be good enough to get this task done.
6th Nov 2015 10:37 pm
HughMartin
Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751
Well done drbrad00. Glad my mistakes were of help to you.
You did amazing job making fantastic and easy to understand posting. Your posting was awesome.
Also after going through whole process, I recommend everyone to try your posting instead of spending $650 to buy whole assembly.
Just $60 to buy a part and 4 hours labor work with couple of beer.
7th Nov 2015 12:59 am
HughMartin
Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751
I wasn't so sure of the reliability of a bearing re-assembled by an amateur. I don't know what the rotational speed of the drive shaft is nor the normal forces experienced during high speed driving but the thought of one coming apart at 70 mph and the unrestrained ends thrashing about uncontrolled filled me with dread. That's why I chickened out trying to repair mine and bought a new assembly for peace of mind.
7th Nov 2015 7:26 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8126
There have been several posts where the support rubber has been successfully repaired with windscreen/sunroof adhesive It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
7th Nov 2015 8:40 am
stew 46
Member Since: 01 Dec 2011
Location: cornwall
Posts: 10146
Put a new prop shaft on a few weeks ago
Easy job -------------------------------------------------
if you cant hold on dont let go , it ill come in handy for something even if you never use it.
D3 SE 05,
110 s wagon 300 tdi SOLD
h top transit
crew cab transit
transit connect
ausa dumper, muck truck .
peljob 2.5 digger
06 L 200 crew cab
7th Nov 2015 10:20 am
amazing
Member Since: 05 Mar 2011
Location: chengdu
Posts: 1542
wikiIt is better to have and not need it then need and not have it.
7th Nov 2015 11:27 am
sean 471
Member Since: 26 Apr 2011
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2990
I was quoted 100 pounds for a new prop bearing fitting.
7th Nov 2015 11:39 am
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
sean don't waste your money , put a new prop on
7th Nov 2015 12:04 pm
Beno2
Member Since: 18 Apr 2009
Location: SE
Posts: 989
I went down the route of having the bearing/ bush replaced and it only lasted 11 months. If you are towing a trailer or caravan then the extra load it up.
Mine went recently on the M25 and had to be recovered. Do not know what the life expectancy is if you do not tow but you take your chance........ D3 HSE
7th Nov 2015 1:04 pm
sean 471
Member Since: 26 Apr 2011
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2990
geoff. wrote:
sean don't waste your money , put a new prop on
Thanks Geoff but mine was fine. Did not need changing.
Thanks Goeff and Sean471.
I used to drive my LR3 90~95mph for commuting(I used to over speed here before traffic starts) for the last 3 months and so far, no problem.
Usual issue with damaged bearing bushing used to be propeller shaft whining noise, which comes off around 65~70mph. After changing the bushing, I still have that noise, but it is around 75~80mph, and with much lower noise level.
So far, it is fine. But I felt the similar thing that the part I bought from ebay looks with rubber with lower hardness than OEM one. I guess it will last shorter than OEM one, but for 10 years old LR3, if it can last for 3~5 years, It it pretty much of my expectation.
CV joints are not such complicated structured part, but high precision part.
As long as keep it clean without any debris and contamination getting in, it may be OK.
Another one good situation with this propeller shaft CV joint is the articulate angle is pretty smaller than drive shaft. So it may be a good shot to try.
DIY is not only the matter of money and reliability, but also personal preference.
Doing DIY for such components may or may not be a good choice, ending up as waste of money and time in the end.
But I liked it and enjoying the job doing by myself, in addition, I saved big money.
Actually what I paid for the bushing was $49, instead of $550 to buy whole Prop. shaft.
I wasn't so sure of the reliability of a bearing re-assembled by an amateur. I don't know what the rotational speed of the drive shaft is nor the normal forces experienced during high speed driving but the thought of one coming apart at 70 mph and the unrestrained ends thrashing about uncontrolled filled me with dread. That's why I chickened out trying to repair mine and bought a new assembly for peace of mind.
You are right, prop. Shaft rotation speed is fairly high. We can calculate it by "Engine Speed / Gear ratio".
If we drive 6000RPM with 2:1 gear ration, then it will rotate with 3000RPM.
Considering gear ration of 0.7~0.8:1 at 5th, 6th gear, and my highest engine run usually around 3500RPM for all gears, so maximum Prop. shaft rotation speed will be around 4000RPM. 65~70 Rev/sec.
7th Nov 2015 5:10 pm
ekkypoo
Member Since: 24 Sep 2009
Location: Guisborough
Posts: 202
Interesting watch here
but i went for a whole prop replacement. I was lucky enought to get a second hand one on ebay 3 years ago for £60. Replaced myself in 1 hour, still going strong!
9th Feb 2016 5:53 pm
Discoveringcomfort
Member Since: 16 Sep 2015
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 637
I find this quite odd, the vehicle has independent suspension such that the diff is fixed in the chassis and does not move? The engine/gearbox is also fixed but rubber mounted, therefore why on earth does it require a complex center bearing and CV joint at all??Series 1 V8
Series 2 Hibrid V8
Discovery 3 HSE V8
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it up.
