Member Since: 27 Feb 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2692
Hi all,
Got my pipe yesterday,took car to friendly garage today,20 minute drive,got car up on ramp sprayed all studs and nuts on turbo and clamp bolt at rear,left it to soak a bit but on trying to remove they don't feel like any of them want to budge
The mechanic reckons its too dangerous to proceed because if the nuts don't budge the studs on the turbo can shear off then we're really in the sh*t!
The turbo and pipe etc were red hot therefore studs and nuts swollen,so he's advised it might be an idea to leave it,let it all go stone cold and then have another go!
I understand this and trust their opinion,but just asking here for the one's that have done this,has the car been left cold prior to starting the job??
Is cold the way to go?
If after 2nd attempt cold they aren't going to budge,we won't risk it and the de-cat pipe will be up for sale,watch this space
rgds
Darrell
19th Jun 2013 3:13 pm
Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1786
DSD bear me in mind if you want to sell!
19th Jun 2013 3:43 pm
dsd1036
Member Since: 27 Feb 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2692
Biffysun wrote:
DSD bear me in mind if you want to sell!
Will do Biffy, i'll know by the weekend
rgds
Darrell
19th Jun 2013 4:22 pm
parrafin23
Member Since: 04 Dec 2011
Location: Buskeud
Posts: 678
I tried to remove the 3 bolts on the turbo from underneath.. I put the vehicle in offroad mode and drove up on 2 ramps. undid the protective plastic cover. 6 bolts. I could not get any tool to the inner bolts.
A friend of mine had a bright idea to get the D3 higher up, like he does to the freelanders that he fixxes:
But too bad.. the lift broke down when we tried to do the same with my D3,
How in the world can i get to these bolts?? the one i managed to access did not want to budge at all. used air impact wrensh but no joy..
so we closed up, So that was the end of that day..
P.
19th Jun 2013 4:39 pm
dsd1036
Member Since: 27 Feb 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2692
Parrafin,
Mine was up on a 4 post ramp,with the plastic tray removed access to the bolts is still very difficult from what i could see when the guys were trying to remove them out of interest was your car cold when you tried to remove your bolts?
rgds
Darrell
ps. 1 bolt is accessed through the nearside wheel arch,but that didn't want to budge on mine either
19th Jun 2013 5:18 pm
blue200tdi
Member Since: 23 Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 1094
Are they nuts or bolts? If they're nuts is there enough room to use a nut splitter? Sorry if that idea is stupid, I haven't been around that part of the engine...yet! You guys are gonna be busier than a test bench in a plunger factory!
Java black 2006 2.7 TDV6 HSE AUTO.
2014 Kawasaki ZZR1400 Performance sport.
19th Jun 2013 9:48 pm
dsd1036
Member Since: 27 Feb 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2692
Sorry they are nuts not bolts
Not a lot of room to get at them either
19th Jun 2013 9:53 pm
parrafin23
Member Since: 04 Dec 2011
Location: Buskeud
Posts: 678
It wasnt cold, I had just driven 1/2 hours. waited 2 hours before i had a go at the nut through the nearside wheel arch. The exaust was ok to hold without gloves. I removed the heat shield close to the turbo on the nearside, but that did not get me anywhere.. So it looks like i have to find someone with a 4 post ramp. I was thinkin of beein under the vehicle and weld, but I would be too close to my welding point.
P.
20th Jun 2013 4:10 am
A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2813
Kev91 wrote:
Went out to have a look at changing mine tonight. The nuts on the turbo on my car were a 14mm, well at least the one accessible through the wheel arch was.
It wanted to start to round so have left for another day.
This is why i let you buy it first...
Once you have a good way of doing it, i'll buy the decat and we can try it the better way..
20th Jun 2013 10:24 am
ST53VEN
Member Since: 18 Dec 2012
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 260
Plenty of WD-40 on them and if doesnt move heat the nut up until hot and get a socket or bolt extractor on ASAP. I would advise buying new nuts and studs before attempting it! Very cheap from TLO. The nut under the wheel arch on mine is very corroded so im guessing many will be the same!
Good luck!
20th Jun 2013 11:02 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713
Mine will come apart easy. The nuts and studs were all replaced 4 weeks ago My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 05 Mar 2010
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 1232
Mine was done on a 4 post ramp from cold, well about 3 hours standing, lots of wd40 and waiting for it to soak in.
Then two nuts from underneath with a very long extension bar onto a 15mm socket, the 3rd from the wheel arch.
It did take a couple of applications of the wd40 and soaking before they started to budge and one, I think it was the bottom right as you look at it from along the exhaust, had to have the old tighten to un-tighten before she would come off.
It is one of those, how much dear I force it to turn before the worse happens..............d4 HSE in Corris Grey with Black options pack
D3 with the following
Alive Tuning EGR blanking kit
Alive Tuning Re-map
Alive Atrics console
Samco intercooler hoses (from Alive Tuning)
Alive Tuning De-Cat pipe, lovely tone!
Retrofit OEM Hybrid TV tuner
20th Jun 2013 12:14 pm
parrafin23
Member Since: 04 Dec 2011
Location: Buskeud
Posts: 678
I think its time for DM to do a How To Body removal now, and not just a basic guide.
or someone to film how to undo these 3 nus from underneath..
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