Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: leipzig
Posts: 9
possible thermostat sticking?
Hi All,
new to this forum, so firstly "Hello"! I have an 05 no thrills/frills TD6 with 48k kms on the clock. It's in great condition. My first question is the engine appears to take sometime to get up to temperature, a good 15 minutes, is this normal or am I looking at a knackered thermostat?
Secondly, could this be the cause of why my heater blows cold on the passenger side and hot in the drivers side (LHD Car)?
Thanks in advance,
BezPrefer to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy!
17th Sep 2013 10:03 am
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72802
Welcome to the madness!!!
Re warming up mine is normally up to temp (needle in middle of guage & warm air coming through) after 3 miles/5 kms of driving.
17th Sep 2013 10:05 am
bezza
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: leipzig
Posts: 9
Ha, so 15 minutes is normal then!Prefer to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy!
17th Sep 2013 10:07 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
If you are getting heat to one side and not the other you have a HEVAC problem as clearly there is heat in the pipes somewhere.
I'm not sure what the weather is like where you are but warm-up can be just the engine or assisted by the Fuel Burning Heater (if it works and cold enough to trigger it). Some thoughts:
The dash needle is a poor indicator of true heat, so try with an IR thermometer.
A bad thermostat can delay warm-up. If you have no thermometer you can just feel either side of it to check if it works at all.
A poor ECT sensor can give false readings to the dash needle (a fault code reader with live data will show what temp it thinks it is which can be compared to an IR thermometer).
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: leipzig
Posts: 9
Hmmmm, a fuel burning heater if it works and cold enough It was 9 degrees this morning, not sure that's cold enough. It sounds as though this heater issue could be a long chase, maybe I will buy a plug into the cigarette lighter type radiator/heater from Argos and be done with it.
Going to send the D3 in for a "winterising" in the next weeks, as it can get to and below -20 here and I am not sure of the current coolant grade. The plan is to waxoyl the chassis and I also have a split rubber over one of the front air suspension units. Is there a recommended place to buy these rubber boots from? And are they a complete *itch to replace or pretty straight forward?
Thanks again all,
BezPrefer to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy!
17th Sep 2013 10:25 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
If it is just the outer cover that has split I would just ignore it until you need other work done.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: leipzig
Posts: 9
Cheers Robbie, that's the sort of advice I like from Forums! Prefer to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy!
17th Sep 2013 10:30 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
With the HEVAC try this to reset the actuators that control the heat:
Robbie wrote:
Ok, next step is the self test.
With ignition off press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car).
The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.
Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
Post results on here!
Beyond this my next thought would be the heater matrix.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: leipzig
Posts: 9
Ok
I tried the suggested proceedure, econ flashed for 10 or so and went out. Turned ignition off and back on prog defrost had no light come on at all.... All this was done in "auto" mode...Prefer to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy!
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